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It's nearly time to swap engines!


yorkshire_spam
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I had my pair of HS4 carbs cleaned, faced and re-bushed by CarbEx, then I rebuilt them with new spindles etc. 
They've been attached to the existing engine in the Spitfire and I've tuned and tested them. I'm happy with how the car is running on them.

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The engine rebuilt has now reached the stage where I think it's time to swap over and get the new one up and running:

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The engine is my old 1500 "spare" that dropped a valve on an event in 2015 (and smashed a rocker, drove the valve guide out of the head and dinked the piston and the bore)
After rebuilt it is now:

  • +60 overbore
  • New pistons
  • Maxspeeding Conrods
  • Duplex vernier timing gear
  • Newman Fast Road cam
  • 10.2:1 compression ratio (head skimmed after headwork done)
  • Peter Burgess "Fast Road" specification head
  • Crank polished (no grind needed! Win!)
  • Piston/Ring/Conrod assemble masses matched to within +/- 1gram across the set

Sometime in the next few weeks I might actually have time to swap the engines over!

By the way... it's purely a "vanity" engine build, I have no justification for all the money I've put into it, I just figured I'll only do a very small number of engine rebuilds in my life, so I'd like to do one "properly", so I indulged myself and spent last years bonus pay on it!

 

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Great spec for your new engine.

Personally, I would wait until the end of lockdown is in sight before fitting it.

You will want to be able to do a few decent trips to run it in. Just my view, but short trips to do essential shopping wouldn't be the best running in process. That spec deserves a better start in life!

Nigel

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13 hours ago, Nigel Clark said:

That spec deserves a better start in life!

Nigel

You have a good point Nigel, but I'm not sure once I'm out of lockdown when/if I'll have the time to swap them over - now might be the time to do it, but the question is can I ust let it sit there once it's done? Will I have the patience to save it for a better run-in opportunity once it's fitted?

12 hours ago, jiggawhat2k said:

What a great looking engine

Thanks @jiggawhat2k, the only let-down is the head. It was painted and looked lovely after all the porting was done, but after it was skimmed to increase the CR some of the paint came off, I didn't do a great job touching that up.

Cheers, Sam

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  • 2 weeks later...
46 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:

Well you were never going to resist the temptation!

Hope fitting up ancillaries and fire up go well.

Nigel

Too true. Also my daughter's boyfriend was keen to help and learn during lock-down, so I thought Id make good use of the willing help!

Thanks, fingers crossed all being well it might fire up today!

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On 03/04/2020 at 11:07, yorkshire_spam said:

 


After rebuilt it is now:

  • +60 overbore
  • New pistons
  • Maxspeeding Conrods
  • Duplex vernier timing gear
  • Newman Fast Road cam
  • 10.2:1 compression ratio (head skimmed after headwork done)
  • Peter Burgess "Fast Road" specification head
  • Crank polished (no grind needed! Win!)
  • Piston/Ring/Conrod assemble masses matched to within +/- 1gram across the set

 

I noticed you have used Maxspeeding conrods, they are aggressively advertised have you used them before?

Iain

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25 minutes ago, Iain T said:

I noticed you have used Maxspeeding conrods, they are aggressively advertised have you used them before?

Iain

Nope, I asked around on a few forums and found people who had used them before and nobody had any complaints that I found. I guess time will tell if they are any good.

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I am rebuilding my engine, stripping it tomorrow, and was wondering wether to just balance or replace the conrods. I did have a look on the inter web and most seem to give them good reviews. Can I ask where you purchased them, PM me if you wish.

Cheers 

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1 hour ago, Iain T said:

I am rebuilding my engine, stripping it tomorrow, and was wondering wether to just balance or replace the conrods. I did have a look on the inter web and most seem to give them good reviews. Can I ask where you purchased them, PM me if you wish.

Cheers 

I bought my set off ebay, £175 I think.

My original rods in that old engine were manky, I figured by the time they'd been cleaned and lightened I'd have spent more than "risking" it on a maxspeeding set.

 

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5 minutes ago, Iain T said:

Cheers, scary low price for a set of 4 conrods but if produced in enough quantities perfectly feasible. 

 

Yeah, with the price of Carrillo rods close to that per rod, it was either maxspeeding or refurb the originals for me. I spent frivolous money on the engine, but not that much!

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Sam,

Breaking in process is crucial,mine started p,ing petrol from one of the float inlets so had to turn it off straight away,then an oil leak.

  This was my 1500 that i spent a fortune on,ended up grenading after 500 miles.Cracked head let water in the bore.

On another note, I was on the Raiders run (Blue Vitesse) when your old one dropped a valve,hope it all goes well for you.

Steve

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2 minutes ago, Steve P said:

On another note, I was on the Raiders run (Blue Vitesse) when your old one dropped a valve,hope it all goes well for you.

This is that engine! Reborn! (and rebored!)

I'll be breaking this one in nice and steady once the lock-down is lifted, some decent length journeys, plenty of hi-torque pulling but keeping the revs well down (2.5K max), then it'll get a really good check over before I start thrashing it.  It's all a bit moot at the moment as it won't start, flattened the battery trying last night. On the plus side it primed up the oil pump nice and quick and the oil light went out nice and quickly. So at least I know it has oil pressure. If I get chance today (I'm working at home) I'll go back over the engine checking the cam and ignition timings again.

 

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I primed mine with a drill before so it had oil everywhere,and proper break in oil from the land of Donald.

It has a 123 Tune USB dissy on it,it fired up first turn of the key,before i wanted it too really.Drove great....for 500 miles,now being rebuilt again.Contributing factor might have been not re-torquing the head down soon enough because i didn`t have the tool for the ARP head bolts.

Steve

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