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Windscreen fitting


Mike R
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I feel really chuffed .... just completed fitting my new windscreen to the GT6. Thought I’d pass on a few things I learned along the way.

Firstly, the spitfire and GT6 magazine has a good set of instructions http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Windshield.html

but, there are a few other things as well

* Hang the seal for a few days so it takes approx the right shape.

* The suggestion to use masking tape to hold the seal on the glass is a good one, otherwise it just pops off as you move to the next part. I had a piece of tape every couple of inches.

* Leave the seal taped onto the glass for a few days, it settles into its new shape and the masking tape can then be removed.

* Think carefully about the right string / cord for slipping round the seal. Too thin and it can cut the rubber as you try to pull the seal lip over the screen surround. Too large and it will trap between seal and metal and be very difficult to pull. I used 2mm nylon, it did start to cut the rubber at one point, but worked ok if careful.

* Heat is your friend. The rubber becomes much more flexible the warmer it is. I had an electric heater sat on the engine and a hairdryer to use as needed. Warm each bit of rubber before trying to pull the seal over the metal rim.

* The corners are tricky, the cord doesn’t want to pull. But keep working it, and keep using that hairdryer and it does eventually move.

* As you work round the amount of cord left in the seal gets shorter, so when you pull it just pulls through rather than over the metal. Have to keep an eye on this because you don’t want to lose the end. Either work each side alternatively, or hold both ends of the cord.

* When finished, some parts didn’t sit fully home. Again judicial use of hairdryer whilst pushing the screen into place made the seal move gradually home.

And then there’s the chrome strip.... The reason I needed the new screen was because the old one leaked. It was fitted by one of the mainstream windscreen companies, but I discovered the leak about a year later because of lack of use in the rain. The reason for the leak had 2 parts I believe:

1. The fitter used no sealant
2. The chrome strip fits in the single slot in the outer part of the rubber with the other side of the chrome strip sitting under the rubber seal lip. This means that the seal lip doesn’t seal as well to the surround. I’d be interested in anyone’s thoughts on this?

For this reason I’ve decided not to fit the chrome strip.

 

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glad you've succeeded , 

if the corners are not formed by the maker then they curl and run shy as they stretch round the corner, ( think co baines cure the corners )

the  chrome /stainless and the simpler mylar plastic inserts expand the rubber and help lock the screen in place, 

you dont want to slam a door and the air pressure pops the screen out

they do need sealer i always recomend the old black gutter seal  easy to squirt on and clean with white spirit

to fit one without sealer is a no no  dry seal multi flip rubbers were not introduced till the late 80s  

i only say thatas i was involved with industry trials on truck screens with the  Dunstable rubber Co who made most in the day

to aid bedding fill an old glove with sharp dry sand or shot , makes a nice dull cushioned whacker 

always treat laminated with great care  ,   toughend  will take a lot of abuse 

Pete

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  • KevinR pinned this topic
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

I was speaking to an autowindscreen fitter today and he said a good way to fit the chrome insert is to first fit a 2mm cord into the slot.

Then fit the chrome in before putting the rubber on the screen etc.

Then once the main screen is fitted pull the chrome insert cord towards the middle of the screen carefully making sure the seal pulls up to the base of the chrome.

He said he did one recently, no problems.

 

paul

 

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  • 8 months later...

Hi Mike.

Thanks for your windscreen fitting tips. I just fitted my GT6 screen and I used 4/5mm Dinghy rope, worked a treat. Dry mounted the screen to the rubber, to prevent it moving around, used masking 'gaffer' tape as you suggested every few inches, lubed the metal seam (washing up liquid) and made sure the lower seal lip was nicely seated on the screen surround before pulling the rope. I was pleasantly surprised it all went very easy until the two top corners but lots of patience and in she popped.

Now the chrome finishing strip is another story. I've checked the usual, Youtube, for guidance but there is no way that little sucker is going all the way down into the slot, even with the fitting tool, it just will not go in deep enough and lubricant makes it pop out. I can easily get it to sit in the slot with the top flange above the seal but no way is it going to sit inside.

Anyone got any ideas, and no I'm not taking the screen out to fit it to the rubber before fitting!

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replace with smaller   std.   a mylar /chrome insert    or fit the steel trim before you fit the screen seems to work

the infill is to lock the screen in place or you can slam a door and the thing gets blown out 

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no idea i though most profiles of the era were somewhat similar  may be the width of the visible bit varies 

having fitted many screens in the day ( mostly on truck problems ) the insert on the rear on my 2000 is missing and the rubbers so hard and the boots sooo long 

my old arms dont stand a chance  ha 

Pete

 

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On 18/07/2021 at 10:35, Pete Lewis said:

or fit the steel trim before you fit the screen seems to work

I have heard from a lot of people that fitting the trim first helps. I have no idea how that could work... reminds me of herding cats...

 

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To get this clear in my head! Fit surround trim first!! Fit seal too windscreen, fit to frame! Where exactly do you put the gutter seal? I have fitted many windscreens to spitfires but the last seal i bought did not fit and had to be cut and glued together. As others have found in the rain it leaks! Never fitted sealent before and just seams like i will get in a total mess with sealent everywhere! Due to fit one to the yellow spitfire after refinishing next week.

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i would fit the glass to rubber then add the trim 

no triumph seals are dry seal all need some goo to seal the glass to rubber and rubber to aperture

so pipe it into the glass channel and fill the flips  prior  to loading in the aperture add the string pull before you seal tape the overlapping

string ends  to the glass 

to feed string around the rubber used a short length of tube as a feeder 

the advantage of cheapo gutter sealer is it cleans off easy with simple white spirit 

until dry seals were developed (and i had a hand in that idea) on production  of 90 trucks a day we only used black bostic kept in a old flatley  airer

to keep it warm and supple 

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

I have spent many evenings trying to fit the chrome trim. A lot of frustration and cut fingers! But it is so rewarding when fitted and looks so much better with the trim installed.

I used a rotary washing line under the rubber seal lip and a lot of water with washing liquid. Just be patient, luckily I have small hands and I was able to push the rubber inside of the trim where the washing line failed. 

I have not used any windscreen sealant, shall I be worried? 😜

I purchased the plastic chrome trim from Rimmers, however it has a small crease (my fault). If anyone would like it I can send some photos, I don’t need it anymore

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Joanna    all i can say is they are designed to be sealed if it doesnt leak you are lucky 

but cheapo black gutter seal cartridge and 'blaster gun' (as used for silicon sealers)   all thats needed , pipe it in the glass and fitting flips clean up excess with a scraper and wipe with white spirit on a cloth 

Pete

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