Windscreen fitting

[1969Mk3Spitfire]

In general, how do the dimensions of the glass compare to those of the metalwork aperture?

I’m trying to fit a hardtop rear screen. The width of the glass appears to be 1/2 inch or so wider than the bodywork opening. The height is about the same size as the metalwork. This appears to be the case for two, different rear screen. I would have expected something like a 5-10mm all round gap for the rubber seal. Confused? Appreciate any advice, many thanks.

[dougbgt6]

Tried to help a friend put in a mini windscreen last week, we struggled and struggled, it was just too big, too curved, we gave up. He called Autoglass, job done! How do they do it?

Doug

[1969Mk3Spitfire]

1 minute ago, dougbgt6 said:

Tried to help a friend put in a mini windscreen last week, we struggled and struggled, it was just too big, too curved, we gave up. He called Autoglass, job done! How do they do it?

Doug

That’s helpful (albeit equally it’s depressing). Do you recall how much bigger (you thought) the glass was compared to the metalwork? All round or just in some areas?

[Pete Lewis]

as the seal is consistent the gap or over flush  between glass periphery and the apperture should be equal all round 

or you are on a lossing battle 

some glass sits inside the aperture and some will be proud of the aperture and its flanges  it depends on the basic design 

pete

 

[dougbgt6]

1 hour ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:

Do you recall how much bigger (you thought) the glass was compared to the metalwork? All round or just in some areas?

seemed to be about 1/2" all round, but it was the curvature did for us, get one end in and the other's sticking out 2" and an inch beyond the edge.

Doug

[Pete Lewis]

string in start with seal lodged on the bottom flange string equally and up each side then along the top 

a old leather glove filled with shot or dry sand  makes a good whacker   to bed the seal as you string in .

you can get rough with toughend glass but laminated ....cracks easy 

Pete

[dougbgt6]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

a old leather glove filled with shot or dry sand  makes a good whacker 

Yeh, tried that but he couldn't do it any better.

Doug

[Phil C]

About to try and fit the windscreen to my Vitesse.

All good/useful info here, thanks to all for posting your experiences.

Having read all about the difficulties people were having I initially thought I would go down the Autoglass route but a quote of £569.00 (and I supply the seal) made me think I should have ago myself. 

Screen (laminated) has arrived (£140ish) so when I have recruited some extra hands I'll make a start.

Wish me luck!

[Pete Lewis]

use some woven cord  like   BQ sash cord  not ordinary string 

overlap the cord on the bottom flip and sticky tape the cord ends onto the glass so when youre ready you can find the ends 

you can add sealer before you fit or pipe it in once its in 

simple black gutter sealer iis what they all used in the hey days of screens and rubbers 

dont rush pull the cords to fold the flip over the flange,    work from the bottomm up the sides to the top 

Pete

 

 

[Colin Lindsay]

9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

use some woven cord  like   BQ sash cord  not ordinary string 

dont rush pull the cords to fold the flip over the flange,    work from the bottomm up the sides to the top 

Pete

 

 

I use old electric cable from a wiring loom but you need gloves to stop it hurting the fingers! As Pete says be careful pulling it, gently does it and you really only use the string to pull the lip out to where it can be fed over the metalwork. Too much pulling and it will actually tear the screen rubber.

[Badwolf]

My ex brother in law told me all this when he refitted my screen years ago. Oh yes I thought...it went in first go like a dream. Quick once around with some 'leakseal' as the job was done. It was unbelievable...and it's staying in!!! Not seen him for nearly 30years.

[1969Mk3Spitfire]

I had the rear screen fitted to my hardtop about two weeks ago.

I called at a couple of “old school” body shops to ask for a recommendation. I contacted one such and he was delighted to help. Two guys arrived within 2 hours of my making the call. Took them a couple of attempts but they had it in within 30 minutes. Their cord was blue 6mm polypropylene (aka BT line or, in the boating community, rope of shame).

They charged me £40.

[Phil C]

Finally got around to having a go at fitting the windscreen to the Vitesse......stuff just gets in the way!!

Ive just offered up the screen with seal fitted and thought I would seek the forum wisdom before hitting getting the hammer out!

With both lower corners snug the middle section of the screen is some 8mm proud of the lip. I appreciate once the corners fit over the lip this will reduce but having never fitted a screen I am not sure if this is a normal starting-point or not?

Its a laminated screen so mindful of Pete's warning re cracking.

Top edge seems much better.

Few pictures attached to illustrate.

Any advice much appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Pete Lewis]

just dropping  the screen in loose is not really representative of its end fit 

the bow effect should align ok  using a decent cord fit it round the rubber and overlap across the bottom  with some one pushing the screen lift the seal over the flange at then bottom , work up the sides and then across the top , take your time ,  gentle does it 

make a soft whacker   sand in a glove or sock works 

with the whacker work the glass to carefully sit fully over the flange   

you will need to seal the glass to rubber and rubber to aperture , you might do that before fitting with a cartridge of black gutter sealer its easy to clean off with white spirit

fitting the locking  mylar strip is easier screen out but as it locks the screen in does make pulling the flip over the flange more difficult 

[Phil C]

2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

with some one pushing the screen lift the seal over the flange at then bottom , work up the sides and then across the top

Thanks Pete, I hope that will work.

My concern is the screen has to be pushed quite hard in the lower middle to get the seal near the flange to start the process. With either side already next to the flange the screen has to flex to accommodate this and I'm worried the screen will not flex this much without going bang!

 

[Pete Lewis]

think youre about to find out      there is some level  of bend before bang !

Pete

[Phil C]

Its in and no bang!

Could see no way to fit the original s/s insert trim either on or off the car so opted for the plastic alternative which I fitted once the window was in place. This went in quite easily with care at the corners.

Used a 3M windscreen sealer as it was a similar price to the gutter sealant. The instructions on this were to seal the glass into the gasket and then dry fit to the frame. Once correctly in position lift up the outer gasket lip and inject sealant around the whole screen/frame. I think this helped the fitting as it gripped the frame better and therefore stayed in place whilst pulling the cord - in any case it was certainly a cleaner option!

As suggested by Colin, I used a length of wire from an old loom as cord and this worked very well with the plastic sheath aiding sliding on the rubber.

 

 

[Badwolf]

Well done Phil. Don't mention black gutter sealant...looks like I used this on my tunnel cover, now can't shift it. White spirit/thinners next attempt. I think that you made the right decision with the 3M.

[Clive]

1 hour ago, Badwolf said:

Well done Phil. Don't mention black gutter sealant...looks like I used this on my tunnel cover, not can't shift it. White spirit/thinners next attempt. I think that you made the right decision with the 3M.

Gutter sealant  (usually!) cleans up with white spirit, but always messy.

Not a good idea for a gearbox tunnel! You want something that actually sets, possibly cheap silicone, or even something like a butyl strip (which is rather like blu tack)

 

[Badwolf]

Clive - Yes, when I removed the cover there were more types of sealant there than my local DIY shop. Got rid of most of the solid stuff but the usual problem of pushing the goo around. Found that a wooden lolly stick is useful rather than a metal scraper. White spirit/thinners in a confined space...love it. Will get there in the end. Good job I don't smoke!! Marigolds at the ready along with vapour mask, thinners, lolly sticks and paper towel.

[Clive]

1 hour ago, Badwolf said:

Clive - Yes, when I removed the cover there were more types of sealant there than my local DIY shop. Got rid of most of the solid stuff but the usual problem of pushing the goo around. Found that a wooden lolly stick is useful rather than a metal scraper. White spirit/thinners in a confined space...love it. Will get there in the end. Good job I don't smoke!! Marigolds at the ready along with vapour mask, thinners, lolly sticks and paper towel.

Try using cheap baby wipes. They seem to clean sealants better than anything else, I think it is the weave rather than the detergent? or whatever it is that makes them "moist". But I have found them invaluable since I discovered they got silicone and even polyurethane sealants (eg tigerseal) off your hands and any surface. 

[Badwolf]

Thanks Clive, extremely useful info.

[Colin Lindsay]

14 hours ago, clive said:

Try using cheap baby wipes. They seem to clean sealants better than anything else, I think it is the weave rather than the detergent? or whatever it is that makes them "moist". But I have found them invaluable since I discovered they got silicone and even polyurethane sealants (eg tigerseal) off your hands and any surface. 

Very useful to know given the price of petrol... which used to take absolutely everything off my fingers.

[Pettifordo]

I tried and failed to fit the windscreen yesterday.

Do you place it over the windscreen surround and then pull through or try to push the bottom edge on and then pull the cord round ?

Also I tried without sealant -if you use this where do you put it ? In the same grove as the rope ? Doesn’t it get all messed up on the rope ?

[Colin Lindsay]

I found that resting the screen and surround on the frame, so that the rubber seal overlaps along as much of the bottom edge as possible as it should, works as a start point. Keeping it pressed against the frame then work out and up on both sides from the bottom, keeping pressure on it as you go. By the time you reach the top it’s holding itself in place and easier to finish.