Cut out when hot then would not Restart; MG Drove by LAUGHING

[essjaycarp]

Hi All

Vitesse Mk 2 back on the road after eight years. Carbs cleaned , retuned by a "specialist" over winter so I know the problem I have today is nothing to do with sticking needle jet, or clogged up float chamber.

 

The car runs on 150 CD carbs, I have sports exhaust manifold, and heat shields under carbs the needles are the same that were on the car for the last 15 years, so nothing has changed. The olny thing that has changed is the carb set up. they had to be stripped and retuned over winter.

 

Today on a warm day and the cars FIRST run out in eight years, it started to get lumpy when hot, I pulled up at a road junction after an hour of driving and the car cut out as I slowed down at a junction, I heard if  engine dropping off as I slowed down at the junction, I blipped the accelerator, but it just conked out on me.

The symptoms seemed the same as what I had years ago, overheating of carb float chamber, and evap of fuel, but I rectified this problem and it was fine for many years after that

It would turn over but not fire up.  However after 20 mins of allowing car to cool down it restarted.

 

Any ideas? This used to be a problem a decade ago before I fitted the heat shields on the bottom of the car and put it down to fuel evaporation  from the float chambers.

Today a similar scenario occurred, could it be the carbs not set up right, running too lean / rich? 

It was a hot day

 

I got home with the car ran it to running temp, and stopped started the car several times and it seemed OK, but I want to be 100%  that I do not have a problem

 

By the way the car is fitted with electronic ignition ( reliable) and a Kenlowe fan that is turning on at the right temp etc so that seems to be fine

 

Any help appreciated

 

Thank you 

Steve 

 

[essjaycarp]

Forgot to say as I was broken down an MG drove past with it two owner laughing and pointing at me. I had my two small kiddies with me. Several modern cars stopped to help me,  and even offer to drive us home. and a couple of bikers. I was really miffed by the MG owner. We are all classic enthusiasts, and I would have stopped for them if I was driving by in my Vit and seen if they were OK.

Oh well.  Triumph MG war back on now then...ha

[Pete Lewis]

Has all the hallmarks of the dreaded floating debris blocking the back of the float needle

 

 

You leave it for a while and the pressure drops the valve clears and you restart for bit

 

You need some pretty adverse conditions and high underbonnet temps to get repetative forms of vapourisation,

one reason to keep the engine fan and keep the air flow under the bonnet in slow traffic

 

pete

[essjaycarp]

Thanks Pete for the input

 

I will take the car out again tomorrow and see what happens

 

Cheers 

Steve 

[dougbgt6]

Could it be vacuum in the fuel tank due to a blocked breather pipe? Get it to do it gain, open the fuel cap, is there a woosh?

 

I had similar issues over a shorter distance which turned out to be crud in the fuel line. I rodded  it out with plastic strimmer wire.

 

A see-through fuel filter will give you a clue as to what's going on with the fuel.

[dougbgt6]

My GT6 was duffed up and re-sprayed, the only Triumph in an MG specialist garage. They were jolly nice chaps and very fond of my car. But, there are knob wits everywhere, even in Triumphs sometimes!

[Pete Lewis]

    odd but i find MG owners seem in a little world of there own and seemingly unaware of  other 'like minded ' around them 

        wonder if the recovery companies can do a poll on the breakdown by marque  that could be fun

 

               anyway its not easy to wave whilst steering a tractor !!    Ha 

                     just laugh back Triumphs are Happy cars 

                                     Pete

[djn]

Hi,

I had a similar problem a few years ago, cutting out when hot. Try a new red rotor arm and cap from "The Distributor Doctor".

[Pete Lewis]

club shop sell red also

 

Pete