Mjit Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 AAAAaaahhhh!!!!! OK, anyone got any tips on removing the oil seal from the big saloon (Stag/TR6) gearbox nose extension? I'm swapping gearboxes from my parts car to my driver with a rebuild on the way through and just stuck with the nose extension oil seal. The one in the spare gearbox shows no signs of moving anywhere. There's a bit of rust inside the clutch release bearing tube so maybe that's got to the seal and rusted in place, so I tried the one in the being-replaced gearbox... No rust inside the tube on that one but, like the first all I can do is mangle the flat-side lip. The circular section sat in the bore shows no signs of movement what so ever. Is there a trick to removing these? Oh and yes, of course the clutch release fork pin snapped on this one too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 i recollect removing mine to utter destruction ,once the seal part gave up i chopped the metal ring with a chisel to split and remove, refitting the new was easy with big socket and whacker pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted April 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Well that was, umm, 'fun'. Ended up having to get the Dremel out and, really carefully, grind through the side of the seal's metal cup till it was paper thin and I could start working a penknife blade behind it. Eventually it started turning inside the nose piece and from there popped out just dandy with the seal puller. Now just waiting for some locking wire to come through the post to complete the gearbox...but have an exhaust manifold swap to look forward to in the mean time. Dropping the exhaust to remove the gearbox on the parts car all three manifold/down pipe nuts came off just fine. Doing the same on the good one...two nuts and one snapped stud 😞 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 getting all the straps and rubbers and bolts on the exhaust mount at the rear x member is a faf . glasses and finger all get in the way pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted April 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Given how much of a ball-ache, largely working blind with 18ft of socket extension bar getting some of the gearbox bellhousing bolt OUT was I'm really not looking forward to getting them back in! I'm really dreading trying to get those very top nuts to take the threads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 yes its a work of art , drop the whole engine down and back and they are just visible its a wonderous design , dont think they ever intended taking the g box off on its own they only contemplate lift the car on sky hooks and drop the lot out form underneath yeah really , we have to manage these struggles with strong TEA maybe a little ADDED SPIRIT do double check the alignment or it will become a heavy struggle , I use an odd bit of timber as a eye up /gauge between rear plate and C hsg so you know youre || NOT \| Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Yea, made up a length of wood with a cut-out for the jack pad on one side and a hole for the drain plug/two piles of packers screwed on at different positions to set things at the correct angle, then a couple of rachet straps to hold it in position. Only problem is it's too tall to roll in/out under the car with the box on. Option one is 'reversal of removal', or strapping it to the wood, sliding it under the car, then trying to roll it up and on to the jack. Option two is to try juggling lifting the engine on its supporting bottle jack/the car on my proper jack to get the axle stands up a peg. Think it will have to be option two, maybe with a wood block made up to stop the engine pressing on the bulkhead brake pipes added to the mix. Option one has me dropping a gearbox on my arm under the car written all over it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 you remember the good old days........... of box on chest and raise with the knees i had one of thos transmission beds and same , not enough height of car to get under so it hangs on the wall waiting disposal even with the ally case its quite a lump . with two of us under going heave ho not much happens Ha ! so get help dont get flattened , not a nice way to go !!!! i remember a local guy car up on bricks , it fell and pierced the fuel tank on something and he was trapped, the worst was to come a paraffin heater set the lot on fire stay safe Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 When I changed the engine on my 2500S I had the car up on ramps, replaced two of the cross-member fixing bolts with threaded rod and used them to lower the engine and gearbox onto a trolley. Then I rolled them onto their side to wheel the trolley out from under. Refitting was a reversal - roll it under on its side, lever it upright, install the threaded rod then slowly wind it up into position. Took ages but involved minimal crawling under. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Getting a second pair of hands not an option at the moment with social distancing! Anyway, at least the locking wire arrived today so I can tick the last item of the gearbox overhaul list and get some refitting done on the long weekend. No sign of the Witor order yet though (mainly exhaust gaskets, etc) which will stop completion, but manged to get the manifolds off during my lunch break so have a whole new set of jobs to do. The inlet manifold water outlet pipe has rusted through on the driver but doesn't leak...because the inlet pipe is completely bunged up with crap! Oh and the carb heat shields...are made of thin hardboard... One step forward, at least two steps back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 You can go in via the big rubber bung in front of gearstick hole, that helps. but biggest thing to do is to get lots of height on the car, 2 ft is ideal under the sills. or get a lift! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted April 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 So looks like 'hardboard' heat shields are standard, suggesting it's probably asbestos... Oh, and a note the the PO, those plain bolts with no locking wire... Yea, NOT suitable for use in the steering rubber coupling. One has rattled almost completely out! 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted April 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2020 So finally got all the parts delivered and everything back together so just one thing left to do - see if it works... Fuel system primped using the hand primer on the fuel pump and in to the drivers seat I get with, considering the cars just been sat since October and I lent my battery charger to a friend a few weeks back, very low expectations. Turn the key and after about 3s she starts up! It moves forward in 1st and backwards in reverse but waiting for food supplies to drop before I have an excuse to drive further. Clutch is still annoying me though. As bought the bite point was right on the floor. Well no gearbox issues now and a new slave cylinder but the natural position is still with the slave cylinder piston at the very end of its travel, so needing 3x plain nuts between the bell housing and the slave cylinder so it actually has somewhere to move when you press the pedal. Can't see any difference in the engine mounting and this is now the same gearbox/operating rod that worked fine on the old car. Meh! It works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 20, 2020 Report Share Posted April 20, 2020 have you got the slave on the shortest side (reward) of the engine plate ???? whats the angle of the lever ?? you should have |/ not || or | \ so the slave pushes from 11 though to 1 (oclock) to get he best mechanical advantage not 12 to 2 pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now