Iain T Posted April 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 Sorry that should read 'and edged' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 Engine is now stripped and just a few faults. It seems the rings, according to CTM are very odd and the bores seem to have been honed by hand with wet and dry! No cross hatching. The mains have a very small pick up but can be lapped out. Apart from that everything seems to be within spec. The pistons when I took them out seemed OK and again CTM said they are fine. The crank/pistons haven't been balanced and weighed yet so I don't know how good or bad they are but as it is it seemed smooth at higher revs. The camshaft is I believe a Bastuck M27TR6PI and for the way I drive didn't work particularly well. I have opted for a hybrid Newman cam with a PH2 lift and power coming in at around 1800 revs. Apart from measuring lift which seems to be 0.280" I can't seem to get a spec on the Bastuck cam, does anyone know? The cam has only done 5000 or so miles so is in very good condition if anyone wants to give it a punt PM me. Hopefully all will be ready for re-assembly next week. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Cook Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 Nigel, is this what you are referring to on the inlet manifolds? I took my cue from Tony Lindsay Dean (article in club mag years ago, I think). This is port no.5 showing the 'wall' before and after. I opened out the ports as well to match 1.75 SUs, you can see the scribe mark. Not the same manifold as I had two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 My mk2 manifold has been reworked similar to Don's and according to CTM it does help. I forgot to take another picture as I've been preoccupied putting the engine back in. Hopefully fire up next Tuesday or Wednesday depending on if I find anymore issues. New King shells, rings (the ones fitted where so tight they couldn't rotate), seals, hone, balancing, reworked rods etc fitted. With the plugs out I'll prime the oil system before crossing everything and firing up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 2 hours ago, Don Cook said: Nigel, is this what you are referring to on the inlet manifolds? I took my cue from Tony Lindsay Dean (article in club mag years ago, I think). This is port no.5 showing the 'wall' before and after. I opened out the ports as well to match 1.75 SUs, you can see the scribe mark. Not the same manifold as I had two. Thank you Don, that's what I meant. Chris Witor recommends exactly the same modification and his before and after flow rates show massive improvement to cylinders 2 & 5. Can't understand why Triumph made it that way, the engineers must have been aware of the uneven flow. Iain, great progress! Fingers crossed for fire up next week. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 As to cams as I said previously I asked Newmans for a PH2 but with lower down torque. I relied on their experience and they supplied a billet cam with 270 duration and 0.260 inlet and exhaust lift plus nitride followers. I hope it works with the reworked head and increased CR. I'll post next week! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 On 14/04/2020 at 19:36, Nigel Clark said: Iain, I would be really interested to see what has been done on the carb side. Cylinders 2 and 5 don't get fed as well as the others. I've been working at the manifold on my 2.5 litre GT6 to reduce this problem but think I may need to go further to reduce the 'gates' that mask 2 and 5. Nigel I will try to find a picture of my HS6 manifold on my 2.5 Vitesse,modified in 2016 ish by Gareth Thomas,i can tell you he removed a lot of material.Engine is great though. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 2 hours ago, Iain T said: As to cams as I said previously I asked Newmans for a PH2 but with lower down torque. I relied on their experience and they supplied a billet cam with 270 duration and 0.260 inlet and exhaust lift plus nitride followers. I hope it works with the reworked head and increased CR. I'll post next week! That's the same timing as the standard GT6/Vitesse Mk2 cam part no. 308788 but with more lift. Should be a great fast road profile, Triumph's original was good, plenty of low down torque and it really sings as the revs build. With the extra lift, your Newman special should be even better! Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 On fitting the water pump I noticed a small 2-3mm diameter hole in the casting by the shaft. Is this a drain therefore fit down or for lubricating so fit facing up? A small issue but I would like to get it right. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Allegedly, it's so that you can tell when the coolant seal fails! As if you wouldn't notice water flying around, but anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 I thought lubricating, well I think that is what it is for on my 13/60, getting oil in there is another question 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Thanks for replies, I fitted the pump with the hole facing up as I had assumed it was for lubrication. But a friend said no its for drainage so fit facing down. I'm leaving as is, so I can lubricate and as John said water flying everywhere is a good indication summit's wrong! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 No the hole should face down to drain any leakage away and not leave the bearings running in water Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Johny, good point I perhaps wouldn't notice a small leak that needs drainage. I'll fit it face down. My next visit to the car is tomorrow when I have to grovel under the car to refit the 6-3-1 collector box (the three pipes came out but it will be a wood block and persuader to get them back in) and the rest of the exhaust. Then onto connecting everything else. I'm enjoying the work but the 60 mile round trip is a pain especially in Covid world! Thanks again Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 On 14/04/2020 at 19:36, Nigel Clark said: Iain, I would be really interested to see what has been done on the carb side. Cylinders 2 and 5 don't get fed as well as the others. I've been working at the manifold on my 2.5 litre GT6 to reduce this problem but think I may need to go further to reduce the 'gates' that mask 2 and 5. Nigel Take a look at Chris Witors site, he has some good picks I followed with mine https://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/Inlet Flow.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 I would thoroughly recommend coating all the bearing surfaces with Graphogen http://www.graphogen.co.uk/ to help with the initial start up but use cam lube ( https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RX1358?gclid=CjwKCAjw7-P1BRA2EiwAXoPWA3H5MkqGqisfrfPG0uTOZsUuIIkTkSJgSFbXWJKmt9KX_OGjXoSGCRoCcE8QAvD_BwE ) on the lobes and followers. Get yourself a set of bottle brushes from frost restoration as well to get to those bits that hide the dirt! https://www.frost.co.uk/engine-brush-set/ You will need a decent Dial gauge and magnetic base for crank end float and cam timing (finding TDC with the head off, plenty on fleabay) along with a degree disc (I printed mine out and stuck it to cardboard) If all else fails take a look at this series on you tube, he goes through a Triumph six rebuild step by step. If nothing else, clean the engine out like its a hydraulic system, any trace of dirt or grit can wreck all your hard work............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Gadgetman, all done and engine is back in the car. As the machine shop lapped and balanced the crank and honed the bores etc I got them to reassemble the block as they have a dedicated experienced engine man (ex Burton Eng). I'll take a photo tomorrow of the inlet manifold to show how much material has been removed to even the flow. On another matter a friend of mine wants his 14" brake drums machined but is very concerned about getting it done correctly. Anyone know anywhere? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 Took photos of modified intake manifold. Great intentions of firing up yesterday but then I reminded myself to be slow and careful its not a race. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 13, 2020 Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 Hi Iain, Thank you for the images above. I've done similar but not gone so far for my 2.5 litre GT6 which has twin short dashpot SU HS6 carbs on the original Stromberg manifold. Sometime will remove the manifold and have another go to try and improve gas flow further. Good luck firing up your new engine, the time must be getting close! Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 Hi Nigel, Before putting the carbs on I thought I had better bleed the clutch as its marginally easier with them off. Fluid pee'd out of the slave cylinder union and I don't have a flaring tool or copper pipe! The threads also looked in poor condition so I ordered a Goodrich hose and 7/8th slave (I like a firmer pedal) from Paddocks. Some past numpty had also partially stripped one of the bellhousing threads but thankfully a longer screw worked. I'll use loctite when I change the slaves over. After considering the options I put a 3mm rolled pin in my brass thrust bearing carrier as the non rotation dimple in the flange has resulted in corresponding worn area. Then one of the cotton reels supporting one of the back silencer boxes was almost torn through so as usual one step forward and half back. If only I could find where I hid the oil sender and home made bracket to mount the Huco fuel pump.....??! Must take my glasses tomorrow😎 Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 After many hiccups and more ordered parts I finally fired up the engine today!!!😃 I cranked the engine to prime the oil system, put the plugs in and much to my surprise it started second pull.....Yeh! Downside is the thermostat housing spring a leak which needed grinding and lapping as it didn't fit at all well. I also replaced the engine mounts and need to order a longer vacuum tube for the dizzy/carb. Just tweaking and refitting bonnet assembly then test run round the block to see what falls off! Can't wait to actually give it a few runs, I'm still crossing my fingers for VSCC Prescott on 2-3 August. Thanks everyone Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 19, 2020 Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 Well done Iain, a big moment! In my limited experience, every new engine start up produces a few little teething troubles to fix. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2020 Thanks Nigel, I'll take a video when I go in next Tuesday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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