SpitFire6 Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Hi, Motul 75W140 is also safe on seals and yellow metal. It has a higher viscosity Index. Much thinner at any start-up temperature. It's GL5 & Ok for sync boxes! According to the DL datasheet https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-900-motul-gear-competition-75w-140-racing-fully-synthetic-car-gearbox-limited-slip-diff-lsd-oil.aspx Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Hi folks, Whilst I'm halfway thorugh the CV driveshaft fit ( one side done) and old Rotoflex shaft removed on other side. I'm thinking about trying to change the diff oil again, using an oil suction gun. I'd previously tried to suck it out thorough the filler hole and failed miserably, despite getting the diff warm. I couldn't get the flexi pipe far enough into the case. So - I was thinking about pulling out the accessible diff output drive shaft and putting the suction pipe in through there and trying again. Do you think it's worth it a try ? Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 yes that should give you access Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Gary, f,git aboot a syphon, or suction, or what ever just drill it in situ, can use any thread ye want as long as its a match t,bolt ye use IT wont come flying oot, honest it wont, it,ll meb,e seep doon the drill bit but put a rag aroong the bit, Syphon wont get the crud oot, which will then just be going roond an roond the diff, wear,n it away, if its no worn already M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekS Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 (edited) I'll second that, M, I've used a 5/16" UNF set screw with a thick washer, sealed with ptfe tape. Easy to do, cast iron is easy to drill and tap, just take it easy. You're right about the oil flow, I imagined it running out but it was controllable. I used the small plastic top off an aerosol round the drill bit.You're right about the crud 'nall, there was also a small amount of water in mine. Well worth doing. Edited June 27, 2020 by derekskill Error Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 M, Derek Ok you've convinced me. I'll drill and tap a hole for a bolt. Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekS Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 Gav, it's cast iron, you wont need a lot of pressure on the drill, take it nice and easy and it will go nicely. Mine had a dimple in the correct spot in the casting. Never been a problem, well worth doing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 I guess if it's drilled and tapped, not 100% square (which it could well be, if I do it), then PTFE tape and a fibre washer should sort it?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 Humm, if you're swapping the drive shafts how far have you gone stripping things down? I'd guess there's not much extra you need to unbolt between where you are and dropping the whole diff out the car. Changing the diff. oil's then just a case of turning it upside down and letting it pour out the spring stud holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 2 hours ago, daverclasper said: I guess if it's drilled and tapped, not 100% square (which it could well be, if I do it), then PTFE tape and a fibre washer should sort it?. I used a BPPT or NPT thread. Hex grub-screw? sits below the surface. I would not use a parallel thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 25 minutes ago, SpitFire6 said: I used a BPPT or NPT thread. Hex grub-screw? sits below the surface. I would not use a parallel thread. I'd be worried about it dropping out. That's just me, but I'd be paranoid; so a good taper is a necessity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiajon Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 On the topic of sorting your different oil. I'm trying to on my Spitfire 1500 but can't get the plug/bolt to shift. Currently giving it regular wd40 but are there any other options? I only have standard scanners and I'm working on axle stands! Any help would be awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 First of all don't pull it off the stands! That's the most important thing. If it's stuck, heat will work; penetrating oil may not be much use if it simply runs off. Give it a few minutes with a blowtorch but make sure the penetrating oil has dried and so won't catch fire. Watch out for fuel lines. I also find that hitting the end gently but firmly with a hammer can break any seal, so try that - shock it, but don't damage anything. A couple or three good firm whacks square on may break the rust. also: tightening it rather than loosening it can also break the seal. Try the opposite direction and see if it shifts at all, then loosen. If it's rounded off, you can file one side down so that it fits a smaller spanner but remember that the more metal it has the more you have to work with, and the longer the spanner you use, or if you can fit any kind of extension, will give better leverage. A little bit of copper grease on replacement will help next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 If it is tight a large set of stilson "self grip" spanners is brutal but effective. (they grip tighter the more force you apply) But you may well need to replace the plug as the head can get damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiajon Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Yup. Penetrating oil is definitely not working. I don't trust myself with a blow torch, but I do with a hammer.... is that wrong? Also I have a hammer but not a blow torch. I'll give it a tap. Cheers chaps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 (edited) Try to tighten & then loosen? Watch the car does not fall on you. Edited June 4, 2020 by SpitFire6 watch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 9 minutes ago, Kiajon said: I'll give it a tap. As Colin say "whack it", tapping will just increase the irritation level! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiajon Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Damn you guys are good. A couple of swift taps and the plug undid without argument! And I'm not wearing a spitfire on my head! Result! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 whenst ye got it oot, get it int vice, and wid a file, clean up the damaged flats, make em nice an square then, get a large nut, 12 mm and a square file, and hold nut int vice and file a square into inside, just a wee bit less than the plug then, apply thread lok, put plug an nut int vice an tighten up, till nut is all the way onto plug make life so much easier. OR, for best results, ditch the plug, an fit a gearbox drain plug muchess bettuss in every way, inc a magnet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekS Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 After reading the comments here, I've changed oil in my Spitfire's diff from EP90 to EP140, an easy job with the drain plug now in. There's mention earlier of using 140 in the overdrive gearbox and you know how it goes, have started thinking. There's always been a slight gear whine on mine at bang on 60mph -never got any better, never got any worse and am now wondering if that help quieten it. Your thoughts would be appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 26 minutes ago, derekskill said: am now wondering if that help quieten it. Your thoughts would be appreciated! There's one way to find out, if you haven't already done it... not sure how the heavier oil would affect the overdrive, though, if at all. It won't be anything that another oil change can't fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 Hi All, re GL4 or GL5, please see pictures of original BL handbook, any comments, inserted to know why they state what they do ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 GL5 MIL-L-2105B is fine. GL5 that is not MIL-L-2105B is bad for the gearbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 Ah, what's the difference with this one Ive been using apart from the E at the end, the data sheet says it should be fine but I would appreciate some advice, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 GL5 for gearboxes will state OK for syncros. If not do not use. 75W.... Syn is a good choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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