Jump to content

GT6 Diff oil


Alex Lowe
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Motul 75W140 is also safe on seals and yellow metal. It has a higher viscosity Index. Much thinner at any start-up temperature. It's GL5 & Ok for sync boxes! According to the DL datasheet

 https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-900-motul-gear-competition-75w-140-racing-fully-synthetic-car-gearbox-limited-slip-diff-lsd-oil.aspx

Cheers,

Iain.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi folks,

Whilst I'm halfway thorugh the CV driveshaft fit ( one side done) and old Rotoflex shaft removed on other side. I'm thinking about trying to change the diff oil again, using an oil suction gun. I'd previously tried to suck it out thorough the filler hole and failed miserably, despite getting the diff warm. I couldn't get the flexi pipe far enough into the case. So - I was thinking about pulling out the accessible diff output drive shaft and putting the suction pipe in through there and trying again. Do you think it's worth it a try ?

Gav

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gary, f,git aboot a syphon, or suction, or what ever

just drill it in situ, can use any thread ye want as long as its a match t,bolt ye use

 

IT wont come flying oot, honest it wont, it,ll meb,e seep doon the drill bit

but put a rag aroong the bit,

 

Syphon wont get the crud oot, which will then just be going roond an roond the diff,

wear,n it away, if its no worn already

 

M

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll second that, M, I've used a 5/16" UNF set screw with a thick washer, sealed with ptfe tape. Easy to do, cast iron is easy to drill and tap, just take it easy. You're right about the oil flow, I imagined it running out but it was controllable. I used the small plastic top off an aerosol round the drill bit.You're right about the crud 'nall, there was also a small amount of water in mine. Well worth doing.

Edited by derekskill
Error
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Humm, if you're swapping the drive shafts how far have you gone stripping things down?

I'd guess there's not much extra you need to unbolt between where you are and dropping the whole diff out the car.  Changing the diff. oil's then just a case of turning it upside down and letting it pour out the spring stud holes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, daverclasper said:

I guess if it's drilled and tapped, not 100% square (which it could well be, if I do it), then PTFE tape and a fibre washer should sort it?.

I used a BPPT or NPT thread. Hex grub-screw? sits below the surface.

I would not use a parallel thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

On the topic of sorting your different oil. I'm trying to on my Spitfire 1500 but can't get the plug/bolt to shift. Currently giving it regular wd40 but are there any other options? I only have standard scanners and I'm working on axle stands! Any help would be awesome! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all don't pull it off the stands! That's the most important thing.

If it's stuck, heat will work; penetrating oil may not be much use if it simply runs off. Give it a few minutes with a blowtorch but make sure the penetrating oil has dried and so won't catch fire. Watch out for fuel lines. I also find that hitting the end gently but firmly with a hammer can break any seal, so try that - shock it, but don't damage anything. A couple or three good firm whacks square on may break the rust. also: tightening it rather than loosening it can also break the seal. Try the opposite direction and see if it shifts at all, then loosen.

If it's rounded off, you can file one side down so that it fits a smaller spanner but remember that the more metal it has the more you have to work with, and the longer the spanner you use, or if you can fit any kind of extension, will give better leverage. A little bit of copper grease on replacement will help next time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

whenst ye got it oot, 

get it int vice, and wid a file, clean up the damaged flats, make em nice an square

 

then, get a large nut, 12 mm and a square file, and hold nut int vice

and file a square into inside, just a wee bit less than the plug

then, apply thread lok, put plug an nut int vice an tighten up, till nut is all the way onto plug

 

make life so much easier.

 

OR, for best results, ditch the plug, an fit a gearbox drain plug

muchess bettuss in every way, inc a magnet.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

After reading the comments here, I've changed oil in my Spitfire's diff from EP90 to EP140, an easy job with the drain plug now in. There's mention earlier of using 140 in the overdrive gearbox and you know how it goes, have started thinking. There's always been a slight gear whine on mine at bang on 60mph -never got any better, never got any worse and am now wondering if that help quieten it. Your thoughts would be appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, derekskill said:

 am now wondering if that help quieten it. Your thoughts would be appreciated!

There's one way to find out, if you haven't already done it... not sure how the heavier oil would affect the overdrive, though, if at all. It won't be anything that another oil change can't fix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...