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Well hello and thanks for reading this! 
I inherited a 1500 Spitfire (W reg) from my father many moons ago and enjoyed it for all of 3 years. Then it stopped. Something to do with the fuel system. Anyhow, into my garage it went and there it has stayed (apart from when we moved house and it was towed to my new garage) for 10 years.

I had a couple of half hearted efforts to get it running (dry plugs, spark, fuel leaking out of the the pipes before the carbs but no go) but with no success.

And then we reached now. The great shut down. Suddenly I’ve got time and the inclination and the motivation (it’s either the Spitfire or the garden!) and my 6 year old son is desperate to see the old girl go!

Now however, we have a new problem. It’s stuck in gear, seized master cylinder and therefore won’t roll. I’ve tried to get the transmission tunnel off but can’t remove the gear shift/stick so can see the slave cylinder but can’t reach it! 
So my questions are many, hopefully your answers will be gentle (I’m a mechanical novice) and we can get the girl running before the country Re-opens! 
How do I take the tunnel off? And what else should I be looking at sorting as part of this recommission?



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Hello Jonathan and welcome; I think there will be a lot of finished restorations ands rejuvenated Triumphs before this all blows over.

Are you sure the problem is hydraulic, or just the clutch plate stuck to the flywheel? There are a number of threads here on the same topic and how to free it up, I'll post links later or maybe someone will oblige?

The tunnel is bolted along the floor, just screws into the bodywork, and more screws below the dash. You'll have to take the carpets out to see them, and you'll need to remove the h-frame which supports the dash (and holds the radio) - four bolts to the floor, and two screws to the top. Work your way around the edge of the gearbox tunnel and you'll find the screws. Some tunnel covers may be stuck down with sealant, or the rubber seal may be sticking. If it's overdrive there may be an additional metal plate in front of the handbrake, which is just screwed to the tunnel, and there may also be side pads / knee pads along the sides; again, just a screw to the rear or some may just be slotted in place and will lift out with a pull forward and up. 

If you remove the gearknob the rubber gearlever surround will lift off over the gearstick. The tunnel cover will lift backwards and up once all the screws are removed.

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Cheers for your welcome Colin. I’d love those links to the seized clutch plate, when you have time. I’ve started on the master/slave cylinder route as the clutch pedal was absolutely solid. I disconnected the master cylinder (still solid attached to it’s mount!) and no matter what I tried the piston won’t move anywhere so it’s definitely in need of refurbishment. I assumed whilst I was doing one that doing the other end would be a good idea!

I’ve undone all the bolts of the tunnel but the gear shift is in the way (stuck in gear and won’t move) but at least I now know I’ve done most of it right! I’m learning fast! 

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Two for starters; Pete's list of common clutch faults is very helpful. Sadly some of the solutions involve having the engine running! Have a read anyway, but the gearbox section of the forum has a lot of good information, too much for me to link to all in one post. 



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on 4 cyl cars you can actually get to the slave from under the car ,need to jack securely  and slave will remove from its housing clamp   if the M cyl is past its best the slave will not be far behind it   replace both , the brake cyl and other brake hydraulics will also likely need replacing .

if the flywheel and clutch and flywheel have rust bonded for 10 years i guess the g box will have to be removed  so tunnel out is still a plan 


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