Brooky Posted April 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2021 3 hours ago, PeteH said: If it`s anything like this?. LOT`s of "massaging" with hammers and some creative cutting?. Fingers crossed, this will fit and clear the door. Cutting the old Crap out next. Pete Fingers crossed for you Pete, Id only usually make a section though if I cant buy it purely as hand made sections are so time consuming, or the price being asked for a repair section is extortionate and looks easy enough to make, that piece youve made are readily available and is very complex in shape 👍🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted April 11, 2021 Report Share Posted April 11, 2021 7 hours ago, Brooky said: Fingers crossed for you Pete, Id only usually make a section though if I cant buy it purely as hand made sections are so time consuming, or the price being asked for a repair section is extortionate and looks easy enough to make, that piece youve made are readily available and is very complex in shape 👍🏻 I agree with the sentiment. But it was someting I noticed AFTER the majority of the work had been done, I was cleaning up and put the flap disc though, tried welding but that made it worse. In the end I gave up and made the section took about 5 hours, on and off, including lunch. May get to Cleaning it up and Trial fit, to-day. One of the "benefits" of being in the higher risk section and locked down, was the time to consider doing basic stuff rather than just chucking cash at it. Sometimes it is nice to go back to old skills, learned as an aprentice, or in the school of "No shops for 3000Miles of open water". Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted April 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 On 11/04/2021 at 00:13, Brooky said: Cheers Colin, as the first photo, I usually draw round what I want to cut out, and in this case work out if I can get to each cut with the grinder, had to cut some of the pattern from under the dash lol, then I basically draw round it on new steel, making it slightly larger, theres only one bend in it at the longest edge, easy bit done, then I draw free hand the shaped raised sections so it looks right, some measurements here and there from some edges to get it looking something like. Then I put either a piece of 5mm steel bar in my big vice or a 40mm/3mm thick box section and use the edges of the pieces as a dolly to bash the shapes into the plate with a heavy hammer that has an edged end one side of it. Takes time lol think monkey bashing a coconut with a rock, that was me earlier on lol 🤣 Ill take some photos of what I use and post up tomorrow etc 😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted April 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 Battery box and a few repairs today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted April 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 Mathew, the scuttle needs a few pieces cutting out, both parts incorporating the windscreen wiper mech holes, then the tub can come off the chassis, to sort anything wrong with that. Check engine and box and suspension as it was all rebuilt 20000 miles ago, paint chassis and put it back together for final gap alignment, bonnet to doors, and prep for paint 😎👍🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted April 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2021 On 20/04/2021 at 06:45, Mathew said: This year could be back on the road at the rate your going, if not spring next. 👍 Definitely this year Mathew, Ive already bought my next project haha, can't help myself, bulkhead just cleaned up, got to clean up brackets for battery nox and weld back on 😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted April 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 Its a great day, nearly finished the welding, a few small welds on the passenger A pillar Ive missed, then tub can come off chassis and see what lurks beneath lol 😎 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 Basking in the sun while I cleaned my garage up a bit, unbolted the body to chassis bolts etc, its ready to lift off and wire brush underneath and paint, got a scaffold tube to cut down and bolt to body after Ive welded some brackets to it, then can be lifted up and sat on the ends leant against garage wall, doing it black underneath as well as chassis 😎👍🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted April 25, 2021 Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 When they built it they wasted at least an egg cup of body colour paint on they chassis 😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted April 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 I might use some overpaintable stone chip then I could brush paint it, other than that black is fine for me, on my midget I used to own I hammerited over etch primer then stone chip, it never needed anything after that, I just used to waxoyle it occasionally in the sills etc but not underneath, passed mot every year no problems 😎 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted April 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2021 Bloodyhell that was hard work on my own lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted April 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2021 Anyone got a picture or rough measurement for the nut welded to floor for the seatbelt bolt, forgot to mark/drill it DOH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 29, 2021 Report Share Posted April 29, 2021 13 hours ago, Brooky said: Bloodyhell that was hard work on my own lol I know exactly what you mean; I'm so remote from other club members I've an entire assortment of wheeled dollies and hoists to make the work easier for one person. I've been waiting three months (B********* Lockdown!) for a mate to come over and help me do the final positioning and gapping on a Herald bodytub. The works progressing well with the GT6, and at least you can say you did it all on your own. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted April 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2021 Yeah I know what you mean Colin, your mate should be able to come over now though eh? Hope you get sorted soon, anywhere near Bolton? Yeah GT6 coming on now, getting it up on its side so I can wire brush the floor etc then etch prime, seam seal then shultz black it all, then same for chassis 👍🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted May 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2021 Well I was going to try and get the tub on its side, not really doable on my own so opted for the tall axle stands, spent the afternoon grinding welds and wire brushing to bare metal, got about a third of it done. Should get it done over the next week or so then etch prime etc 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted May 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2021 Great feeling once you start painting, etch primed the rear of tub and wheel arches, still wire wheeling the front floors but looking good 😎 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted May 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2021 Got the full floor underneath etch primed this afternoon, can relax a little now I know its not going to rust. Ive had to have a car port erected as Ive lost my neighbours garage as the bungalow has been sold she used to live in, RIP Jean and thankyou x Anyway the chassis will go under the carport along with my mini shell under a cover etc, soon have the tub back on the chassis after rebuilding suspension and painting 😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted May 26, 2021 Report Share Posted May 26, 2021 Is etch primer actually water repellent or does it, like so many, absorb and hold moisture causing rusting or paint blistering at a later date Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted May 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 Etch primer is used to bond any paint layer to bodywork, Ill overcoat this with black schultz, never had to rub it down to prime, just overcoated with primer before top coat, never had any problems Seam sealer first though too for welded seams and edges etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 Mathew - I thought that it may be the case. Yes 2k primer is harder to rub down but it is less likely to rub through. As I have mentioned elsewhere, I did my bonnet in 2k last year knowing that it would have to wait in a damp shed for 6 months before progressing the work. It is in great condition apart from a little section that I had missed under the nose and just needs spot treating. I have a box of acid etch aeros that I'm not sure what to do with as I don't want a repetition of the top coat blistering due to the primer absorbing atmospheric moisture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted May 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 8 hours ago, Badwolf said: Mathew - I thought that it may be the case. Yes 2k primer is harder to rub down but it is less likely to rub through. As I have mentioned elsewhere, I did my bonnet in 2k last year knowing that it would have to wait in a damp shed for 6 months before progressing the work. It is in great condition apart from a little section that I had missed under the nose and just needs spot treating. I have a box of acid etch aeros that I'm not sure what to do with as I don't want a repetition of the top coat blistering due to the primer absorbing atmospheric moisture Usually blistering is caused by moisture in the air line when spraying, theres nothing wrong with cellulose etch primer, thats what Ive used on mine and many other cars and scooters, you just need a decent moisture trap 👍🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 When my paint was done there was a decent moisture trap, compressor drained religiously and everything was in order to get the best finish. What was not in order were my instructions to prime the car ready for a top coat, which was only done several weeks later. Every restorer that I have spoken to over the past few years has confirmed that my paint blistering was more than likely caused by applying the top coat over primer which had absorbed moisture from the air. It appears that top coating over acid etch, zinc primer etc is fine (obviously) providing the primer is thoroughly dry. Warm dry atmosphere, heater, hot air gun etc etc. I was advised not to store parts in primer for any length of time unless it was in the dry, otherwise to use 2k which is waterproof when cured. I only relate the advice that I have been given along with my own past, sad, experience. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted May 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 Ah yes I agree with that, its a primer not sealer 👍🏻😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted May 28, 2021 Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 Brooky - I would hate to think that after all that trouble, you might end up with the same disaster that I ended up with. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 No should be fine, nice dry garage and the tub is about 1 meter off the ground on large axle stands, it will be schultzed soon, only doing the underneath this way, sills upwards is going to be 2k 👍🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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