Phil C Posted April 20, 2020 Report Share Posted April 20, 2020 I would imagine that I am not alone in being slightly disappointed when their new Vitesse Floor pans arrived. Not quite pressed enough to be an easy fit. A request on the forum for advice met with limited success. Apparently it was a 😡🤬🤬🤯 kind of job. Well it is now complete (almost, but run out of gas) and with all ythis time on my hands I thought I would share the experience which may be of help to someone in the future even if just to show how not to do it. I had the bulkhead blasted which then tells the full extent of what work is required. Front leading edge badly corroded. Evidence of earlier brazing repairs. Sill leading into A-post also not good. Again evidence of poor earlier repairs. At least the lower inner A-post looked intact which would assist in lining things up. For those of you who are not aware the floor pan repair panels available are only pressed once, leaving the outside edge to be modified to suit the sill/A-post/bonnet catch area. Following advice from Karl (Bordfunker) I bought a pair of lower A-post repair panels from Chic Doig and I found these greatly assisted with the repair and would highly recommend them to anyone undertaking this repair. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HERALD-VITESSE-FRONT-BULKHEAD-BODY-MOUNTING-A-POST-FLOOR-ASSEMBLY-CHIC-DOIG/371166198802?hash=item566b3abc12:g:1wIAAMXQiNdRdPx4 Where to start? I decided to repair the flange around the front of the bulkhead to which the floor pan is spot welded. I removed the existing spot welds, although many were simply rusted through and other areas had been brazed/welded from previous repairs. It was a difficult job but once complete that part of the old floor pan could be cut away. I didn't remove the whole floor pan as I wanted to retain as much rigidity/shape as possible. I don't have a shrinker/stretcher so I simply cut out a strip of mild steel to the correct radius and length. This was the result with holes ready to spot weld to the new floor pan. Not quite as pretty as I had hoped for but it is solid and with some epoxy primer and a smear of filler before paint it will be ok for me. I decided to tackle the sill to A-post next as combined with the above would permit the Chic Doig repair panel to fitted/aligned. I am not aware of a repair panel for this location but no doubt someone will tell me otherwise. But with very limited fabrication skills I thought I would give it a go! I thought I would cut out the rot but try and keep the edges to hopefully allow me to reform it with basic repair panels. In the photo above the clean cut of the sill represents the extent of the Chic Doig repair panel which will form the base to the left. I started to replace the underlying rot. And then tried to reform the shape with separate little panels I formed in my vice. I than added the Chic Doig repair panel (red oxide) to try and align everything up and tack in place. Not pretty, and needs a little more work to address aesthetics. On the inside the existing A-post was spot welded to the Chic Doig repair panel. Note this has to be cut /modified towards the front in order to accept the new floor pan. I now had a reasonable base to which I could begin to fix the replacement floor pan to. The remainder of the old pan could be removed as the sill/A-post structure was reasonably stiff. I removed the bulkhead from the chassis to facilitate this. All previous work had been undertaken with the bulkhead bolted to the chassis in an attempt to keep its shape during repairs. I clamped the floor pan to the bulkhead. It can be seen from the above photos the extent of modifications required to the outside edge and also the Chic Doig repair panel is clearly visible (red Oxide). The side view shows the floor pan clamped to the mounting brackets. It needs to be cut here to permit a higher fixing. The floor pan was now at the correct level albeit still requiring some modifications to the outside edge. At this point I tack welded a couple of points on the front edge and re mounted the bulkhead to the chassis to ensure it remained aligned before full welding. Once back on the chassis the whole edge could be fully welded. Photo before grinding/tidying up . From underneath showing how the floor pan has been trimmed/modified. Currently only tack welded as Ive run out of gas!! The extent of the replacement Chic Doig Panel is clear in this photo. .......then repeat for the other side 😊 Not perfect I know and if I did it again I would probably do a better job, but hopefully this provides some assistance to anybody undertaking the same repair in future if only to let them make more informed decisions. Screen pillar repair next....eek😬 Keep safe everyone. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark powell Posted April 20, 2020 Report Share Posted April 20, 2020 Been there, done that, 4 years ago... Thank heavens for the Chic Doig panels! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 20, 2020 Report Share Posted April 20, 2020 I just cut out the middleman and sent the bulkhead across to him for restoration. It came back looking so good I had to check to make sure it was the same one I had sent him. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted November 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2021 Its been a bit of a slog but today was a big moment in the Vitesse restoration as the finished bulkhead was reunited with the chassis! There were times when I thought it would never happen but it has today and I am rather chuffed so i thought I'd share it. If any of you are at that desperate stage with your restoration right now don't give up, there will be a light at the end of the tunnel!! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted November 18, 2021 Report Share Posted November 18, 2021 Remember to put the brake and fuel lines on the chassis before putting the rear tub on as there a bu**er to fit afterwards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted November 18, 2021 Report Share Posted November 18, 2021 56 minutes ago, Peter Truman said: Remember to put the brake and fuel lines on the chassis before putting the rear tub on as there a bu**er to fit afterwards. I would say "And the rear part of the handbrake cable" but being a Mk2 complicates that. Still, probably best to fit it to the body before uniting with the chassis. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted November 19, 2021 Report Share Posted November 19, 2021 Looks a neater job than Mine!!. But I fabricated all but the Floor pan from scratch, using a bench vise, angle iron, and hammers on a "sand" bag. 2 - 8x4 sheets of steel!. Not knowing the Bit`s where available. Hence much scruffier, but Strong. Currently having fun repairing Cill`s and fitting those to get alignment with the doors and shut lines. It`s all steel but I am afraid the there could be a lot more filler involved to get a smooth finish!!.😟 Seam Sealer is good?, and should keep any moisture out. P.S. second the idea of putting the rear brake cable in as far as possible before re-uniting the rear tub.👍 Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted November 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2021 Thanks for the advice guys. I had thought about the brake/fuel lines and did install them first. However not thought about fitting the handbrake mechanism/cable to the tub but makes great sense so thanks for that!! 1 hour ago, PeteH said: But I fabricated all but the Floor pan from scratch, using a bench vise, angle iron, and hammers on a "sand" bag. 2 - 8x4 sheets of steel!. Not knowing the Bit`s where available. Hence much scruffier, but Strong. Pete, well impressed with anything fabricated from scratch not sure my skills are up to that. The lower A-post repair panels from Chic Doig were god send for me and made lining everything up a simpler operation. Good luck with the panel alignment, we all know what fun that can be! I would add "Stone Chip" to "Filler" and "Seam Sealer", as it can also hide a lack of repair finesse 🤠🤠 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 20, 2021 Report Share Posted November 20, 2021 this is what you get when you dont know CD did a repair section when adding new floor pans and body mounts to the A post base a complete hotch pot of welding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 20, 2021 Report Share Posted November 20, 2021 On 19/11/2021 at 09:39, Phil C said: I would add "Stone Chip" to "Filler" and "Seam Sealer", as it can also hide a lack of repair finesse 🤠🤠 Add underbody seal too, my own Herald restoration thread has photos of an 'excellent' convertible tub that was well disguised. It went from well disguised to well blasted and probably will end up well dumped. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted November 20, 2021 Report Share Posted November 20, 2021 Nice work. Your rocker cover looks like the one I have on my Mk1 Vitesse, had to modify it as unhappy with clearance with bonnet. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted November 20, 2021 Report Share Posted November 20, 2021 I just replaced the entire section:- Pete 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted November 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 On 20/11/2021 at 16:19, 68vitesse said: Your rocker cover looks like the one I have on my Mk1 Vitesse, had to modify it as unhappy with clearance with bonnet. Paul, thanks for the heads up on this issue 😳.........before I fit and close my nicely painted bonnet and dent it!! I also notice your fixing bolts are flush where the ones supplied with my cover are tall, standing proud, another potential conflict with the bonnet me thinks?! I will be very mindful when refitting the bonnet. On 20/11/2021 at 12:58, Pete Lewis said: a complete hotch pot of welding Looks pretty solid though!! 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 22, 2021 Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 there is not a general problem with clearance on the herald/vitesse but alloy covers on a GT6 can be in contact the club tried a similar mod to the front fins but it didnt solve it , in fact i bought it cheap at one of Bern's HQ bazaar sales its on the 2000 now there are a good few dings in bonnets due to tall studs or the elusive socket left in place so yes its tight and depends a lot on the basic bonnet height adjustment all adds up Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted November 22, 2021 Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: there are a good few dings in bonnets due to tall studs or the elusive socket left in place Not to mention the thermostat hose jubilee clip fitted with the adjustment on top. Bought some four inch stainless bolts but needed to cut to length, polish the head and cut more thread, but then plenty of time during lockdowns. Noticed your no oil note on gearbox, also have to leave similar notes these day. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted November 22, 2021 Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 I had the same cover on my Vitesse which resulted in a ding on the front.Now replaced with an SAH cover. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted November 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 39 minutes ago, 68vitesse said: Noticed your no oil note on gearbox, also have to leave similar notes these day. ........sadly needed on everything now 🤣🤣🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 22, 2021 Report Share Posted November 22, 2021 we have a local i now call Mick No Oil listen to this gearbox Ok did you put any oil in er !!! NO Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham H Posted July 31, 2022 Report Share Posted July 31, 2022 thank you for the photo's, that will greatly help my resto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted August 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 Big day yesterday as the Vitesse was cranked over for the first time and started first turn of the key 🥳. The PO had old me it last ran in the early 1980s. Sounded a little rough but I was very pleased (surprised 😳). Unfortunately once up to temperature the heater valve decided to let go - new one ordered. Geeky video to mark the event 🙄 0B0D4F6C-51AB-4B2F-B72E-25475C16518D.mov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 11, 2022 Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 if you need the rubber sealing olive you can cut a small slice of heater hose will make one if you didnt order one Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted August 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 Useful knowledge Pete but, unusually for me 🤓, I did remember to also order a seal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 11, 2022 Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 Lovely job Phil, you should be well pleased. I'll send you a PM about the b-posts, yours are so clean and fresh looking I might need some good reference shots, if you can help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil C Posted August 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 49 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: I might need some good reference shots, if you can help? No problem Colin, if I can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now