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Chinese aluminium radiators


cggs

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I have the ebay one on my spitfire been fine the top hose can be tricky due to the angle of the outlet. Never over cools works perfectly and I tow a caravan with my Spitfire.

No leaks had it about 6 years now no issues at all was £120 when I purchased mine.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

in this 21st century and we've learnt nothing, dictators ambitions! hopefully the Oligarchs will sort him out when their free movement and loss of income/assets start to hit them where it hurts, he's only in power whilst he has their backing, good to see some Russian peoples objecting & he calls them Traitors! he's a nasty bit of work!

Could the integration of Ukraine also be about Russia's wealth here are some interesting facts re Ukraine's resources and potential wealth

Ukranes Natural Resources & Wealth.jpg

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Going back to radiators, I wouldn't bother with aluminium ones, the full width Spitfire one from Canleys is excellent and on other Triumphs a re-core with an upgraded copper core works wonders.  

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Probably been discussed before but Ive never understood overcooling as I thought even if the rad is too big the thermostat would close to keep the temperature correct. I know thermostats arent precise and back in the day they even used radiator blinds because of this problem but it still suprises me...

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3 hours ago, johny said:

I thought even if the rad is too big the thermostat would close to keep the temperature correct.

You might think so, but in reality thermostats open well before full operating temperature, so the radiator efficiency has a significant effect on how much above the opening point you get to. My Spitfire definitely over-cools if I calibrate the electric fan wrongly.

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the old addage was the rad cooled 20c from the input   you dont want too cold /cooled water entering a hot block 

its a balancing act that keeps it all to a plan yes modualted by the stat which if you look down the filler you will see the ebb and flow as it opens and closes or restricts

flow all the time  every few seconds   its not just opens they open and shut continuously stats are a very busy little bit of kit 

I still have dual temperature gauges on a capiliary to measure temperatures in top and bottom rad tanks to monitor cooling on road tests

Pete

 

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

you will see the ebb and flow as it opens and closes or restricts

flow all the time  every few seconds

There was an interesting comparison I saw some years back between logged data from a Rover T-series (2L) engine and the K-series (1.6L) in a similar car. As the engine warms up, the coolant temperature on the T-series reaches a point then drops, then starts to oscillate (a very typical and familiar decaying wave that most engineers will recognise from many places) before settling and then rising to full operating temperature. The K-series, however, just plateaus for a bit. Why? Well, the T-series has a top-hose thermostat like we're all familiar with. When it first opens, it lets all the hot water out of the engine to be replaced by cold, until the stat closes again, then the engine warms back up until it opens. The K-series, on the other hand, has a bottom hose thermostat. When it opens, it lets a tiny bit of cold water in, which cools the stat immediately and shuts it again. So the result is a slow opening and gentle introduction of just enough cold water to keep things steady.

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I wonder with the K series though what temperature the engine gets to while warming up because, presumably, theres a low coolant flow so the heat will take quite a while to travel by conduction from the engine and through the rad (where its cooled) before getting to the thermostat...

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I'm not quite getting what you mean, there, johny? The logs I saw were of temperature measured within the engine circulation (the injection system needs to know the real engine temperature for correct fuelling) and showed a nice, smooth increase with a bit of a plateau at thermostat temperature - somewhere in the 80s. Remember that a bottom hose stat is still fitted with the wax capsule on the engine side, so it senses pretty much the same temperature as a top-hose one.

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Oh I see and yes I suppose even if the thermostat is installed in the coolant return from the radiator, if its close enough to the block, it should be able to have a good measure of engine temperature although I still think it will a be a bit slower than being in the engine outlet...

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