Adrian Saunders Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 I’m about to fit a CC trunnion-less kit to my GT6 mk3 and I’m looking for some advice. Quick check tonight and it became apparent that the alignment of the bolt hole in the bottom pivot block is a few thou’ out to the hole in the lower wishbone. I’m happy to ream the parts but, is this what others have experienced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getsis Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 I fitted them and everything lined up perfectly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 I too fitted them and it all lined up. Is it out on both wishbones? Have your wishbones had oval holes repaired? Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 No problem when I fitted mine. Do you mean the trunnion block hole is too high/low? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 Mine also fitted. Is it really too far out to tap the bolt through? Holes need to snug. You don’t want any slop here. Once fitted, be aware that the suspension geometry settings may be significantly altered. Camber, caster and toe must be checked and adjusted as needed. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 12 hours ago, ahebron said: I too fitted them and it all lined up. Is it out on both wishbones? Have your wishbones had oval holes repaired? Adrian They have been repaired. I fitted the pivot blocks tonight. I knocked an old bolt in from the wrong direction and then chased it out with the new one. All ok now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 Make sure it is really really tight. Not fun when loose. No locating mechanism relies on friction. Tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 49 minutes ago, SpitFire6 said: Make sure it is really really tight. Not fun when loose. No locating mechanism relies on friction. Tight. Certainly will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted May 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 On 28/04/2020 at 22:44, SpitFire6 said: Make sure it is really really tight. Not fun when loose. No locating mechanism relies on friction. Tight. Aaaaaagh! Expletive! So, torqued up the offside to 44 lbs/ft (same as damper bolt) but, on near side, thread has stripped at bolt and/or nut! Of course now it won’t undo and allow me to fit a new bolt too. But why strip anyway? Same torque as damper bolt. Anyone used a nut splitter on this fastener? There’s only an inch space in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 I think I would try a cutting disc, go in from an end and take a slice off the side of the nut without touching the bolt thread. Not as hard as it sounds. Then a small chisel to split the nut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 Dave will be cross with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted May 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 6 minutes ago, SpitFire6 said: Dave will be cross with me. What you on about chap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted May 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 12 minutes ago, clive said: I think I would try a cutting disc, go in from an end and take a slice off the side of the nut without touching the bolt thread. Not as hard as it sounds. Then a small chisel to split the nut Good idea. You’ve inspired me. I don’t have a cutting disc so I’m going to chain drill along the nut, along the axis of the bolt. Then I’ll turn it 180 and do the same. Then chisel. I have some more bolts. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 Dave is the guy who sells the kit at Canleys. A joke. Sorry. They need to be very tight. Tight. Apparently that was too tight? Same size as damper bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted May 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 15 minutes ago, SpitFire6 said: Dave is the guy who sells the kit at Canleys. A joke. Sorry. They need to be very tight. Tight. Apparently that was too tight? Same size as damper bolts? No problem fella. I thought you were referring to Dave CC. The damper bolts are 7/16” UNF too so, as a starting point, I was tightening them to the same. That shouldn’t have been a problem but, it appears to be. However, as my wishbones have been repaired at the trunnions bolt holes (previous owner), I have employed longer bolts so that the unthreaded portion is at the bearing areas, added washers as applicable and the shortened the threaded portion to suit. I’m wondering now if I’ve got the washers wrong and the nut went solid on the unthreaded portion. This damaged the thread rather than torquing out and eventually trashed the nut and pulled all of its threads out, so it can’t turn back off the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 So if the nut is stripped if you cut the protruding thread part of the bolt off level with the top of the lock nut could you then drive the bolt back thro the stripped locknut? just a thought this way everything is accessible. might work? Peter T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted May 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 6 minutes ago, Peter Truman said: So if the nut is stripped if you cut the protruding thread part of the bolt off level with the top of the lock nut could you then drive the bolt back thro the stripped locknut? just a thought this way everything is accessible. might work? Peter T Excellent, another potential fix. Thanks Pete. I think that bearing in mind the assistance/advice that you guys give, I shall join the club even though my car is still not on the road. Is this year a Classic Le Mans year? Do the TSSC have Tertre Rouge again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted May 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 58 minutes ago, Adrian Saunders said: No problem fella. I thought you were referring to Dave CC. The damper bolts are 7/16” UNF too so, as a starting point, I was tightening them to the same. That shouldn’t have been a problem but, it appears to be. However, as my wishbones have been repaired at the trunnions bolt holes (previous owner), I have employed longer bolts so that the unthreaded portion is at the bearing areas, added washers as applicable and the shortened the threaded portion to suit. I’m wondering now if I’ve got the washers wrong and the nut went solid on the unthreaded portion. This damaged the thread rather than torquing out and eventually trashed the nut and pulled all of its threads out, so it can’t turn back off the bolt. What do you guys think about the thread stripping? Feasible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 1 hour ago, Adrian Saunders said: No problem fella. I thought you were referring to Dave CC. The damper bolts are 7/16” UNF too so, as a starting point, I was tightening them to the same. That shouldn’t have been a problem but, it appears to be. However, as my wishbones have been repaired at the trunnions bolt holes (previous owner), I have employed longer bolts so that the unthreaded portion is at the bearing areas, added washers as applicable and the shortened the threaded portion to suit. I’m wondering now if I’ve got the washers wrong and the nut went solid on the unthreaded portion. This damaged the thread rather than torquing out and eventually trashed the nut and pulled all of its threads out, so it can’t turn back off the bolt. Hi Adrian I dont see why you would need to do this with the longer bolts unless the repairs have made to the wishbone have neccessitated the longer bolts The design of this fitting is very different in operation to the original trunnion which did have a degree of pivot on the bolt which was made worse when the bolt and trunion sleeve became one and would then wear out the wishbone. With this design all you are doing is bolting it in place to make it 'solid' with the wishbone the movement is taken care of with the 'rose' joint , I suppose if you so desired you could weld the joint to the bottom wishbone but fitting the shock would be interesting. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted May 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 8 minutes ago, ahebron said: Hi Adrian I dont see why you would need to do this with the longer bolts unless the repairs have made to the wishbone have neccessitated the longer bolts The design of this fitting is very different in operation to the original trunnion which did have a degree of pivot on the bolt which was made worse when the bolt and trunion sleeve became one and would then wear out the wishbone. With this design all you are doing is bolting it in place to make it 'solid' with the wishbone the movement is taken care of with the 'rose' joint , I suppose if you so desired you could weld the joint to the bottom wishbone but fitting the shock would be interesting. Adrian Hi Adrian, the repair has been facilitated by welding washers onto the wishbone to bolster/replace the original holes. So, as the clamping area has increased In length I’ve endeavoured to improve on the original design intent by ensuring that the unthreaded portion of the bolts is indeed the only area taking the load. I appreciate that the original design (intent) lasts for decades but it is technically flawed and as a mechanical engineer I like to make these improvements. For those not wishing to switch to trunnion-less uprights, the correct length bolts are a viable proposition to a bodged/original solution, not a bad option. I am still hoping that I have made a mistake with washer quantities and will be able to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 What tensile strength bolt and nut have you used ? if they are too low then that might explain the stripped thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Saunders Posted May 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 30 minutes ago, KevinR said: What tensile strength bolt and nut have you used ? if they are too low then that might explain the stripped thread Indeed. As far as I know they are “S” rated. Standard run of the mill bolts from CC as used generally all over the cars. Interestingly, offside ok and near side not. That’s what’s pointing me at the wishbone repairs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 10 hours ago, Adrian Saunders said: d. Is this year a Classic Le Mans year? Do the TSSC have Tertre Rouge again? It was, but isn't now, postponed by a year, and Tesco, Tertre Rouge again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 11 hours ago, Adrian Saunders said: Good idea. You’ve inspired me. I don’t have a cutting disc so I’m going to chain drill along the nut, along the axis of the bolt. Then I’ll turn it 180 and do the same. Then chisel. I have some more bolts. Thank you. Oh dear. You REALLY do need a grinder. A cheapy will do fine, make sure it is 4 1/2" (115mm) and get some 1mm cutting discs. Flapwheels are good to use too... Best £25 too around! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 Just drill down the side of the bolt. This means one drilling lengthwise rather than a lot of chain drilling horizontally; assuming you can save the bolt by the other method? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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