dave.vitesse Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 As a follow up there will be no change in the running in the case of the 13/60 as the breather pipe is on the air side of the carb and removing it makes little or no change to the mixture. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Nigel, ye say The TR6 breather from the rocker goes to the air plenum. The breather is therefore between the air filter and throttle butterflies. Unless the air filter is blocked, there won't be much vacuum in the air plenum, certainly far less than the 13-14" Hg manifold vacuum my car shows at idle. Removing the oil filler cap doesn't make this TR6 engine stall. That flame trap yer reff,n too, ye or any one else looked at the wol size, its no 1/2, no 7/16th, , its laa,ler than that, just looked at an olde,n in me sheds collection, Its no rocket science t,see that wid flame trap sort,v clogged an a wee pipe size, oils gonna get pushed oot every where. Ye really got a couple of options, , add another breather t,rocker box, an mek the orignial bigger too, say 3/4 inch or ,if no want,n t,re drill rocker box, put yan on the timing chain cover, bit moer invoved, but doo able, In my mind, rocker box is best bet And, ye mention air filter clogged, did ye no that if a PI,s air filter is clogged, it will mek it run lean, IE, is back t,front as for a carb set up, carb filter blocked, it,ll run rich. Noo then, any one care t,say why, NJ, yer no allowed, cos ye no, !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Marcus, I've cleaned the flame trap with gun wash in the past but still, I'm sure it's a restriction in the breather pipe. Certainly, a larger breather tube would be better. I have K&N filter in the original housing but I keep it clean and oiled, so hopefully not too much restriction. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 It is, cos the pipes too small, as said, mek em bigger. FYI, ive run PI, for 30 odd yers, an first thing I did was tek that darn flame trap off, never ever had a bang, M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 13 minutes ago, GT6M said: It is, cos the pipes too small, as said, mek em bigger. FYI, ive run PI, for 30 odd yers, an first thing I did was tek that darn flame trap off, never ever had a bang, M I've run without the flame trap for a few years too, and the bonnet is still on its hinges! But the engine didn't breathe any better. That confirms you're correct that it needs a larger breather tube. Once I've put the head back on, after sanding the faces and using Victor Reinz silicone (postie delivered the sealant today), I will look at increasing the breather tube diameter, and dump the flame trap. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Give the gasket a rub / clean along the front edge, so sealant sticks better. it,ll shift the stuff thats on as OE, Dont f,get t,seal along the oot side edges along the cyl heed / block too wid a wee seam, needs cleaned first,so stuff will stick, mask,n tape too, then finger finnish off whenye take tape off. doo before dizzy is in place IF, ye no what yer doo,n, { ive it off t,a fine art noo, !!! } then the outer seam can be done at same time as the heeds done, this way all the mastick will set as one., as some will squelch oot frae the heed. let no hoo ye get on, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Thank you Marcus. I will certainly report back, but with present restrictions, it may be a while before I've covered enough miles to know for sure. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 I've put the head back on the TR6 after sanding and cleaning the block and head faces as Marcus suggested. I've also applied a thin smear of Reinzosil in the critical areas. I'm not rushing to finish reassembly, so the silicone will get several days to cure fully before the engine is started. I will report back again once it's running. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 If yer no put,n in a bigger breather, or another,n to help the original then after a while at high revs an loads, it will most likely leak. normal drive,n an potter,n aboot will not generate the crank case pressures that leads t,oil spew,n oot M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted May 13, 2020 Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 Agree on the breathers. It’s on the to-do list for mine as it gets a bit “sweaty” on track days or when ragging it round the Alps. Ok the rest of the time. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 Thank you both. I was thinking about making an extra breather, through the pump pump blanking plate similar to what JohnD has described earlier in this thread. Trying to neatly make the standard breather larger from the rocker cover to the air plenum will be tricky, and will likely encourage even more oil into the plenum. Currently work is getting in the way of progress - it's necessary and welcome distraction - so it will be a few days before I get back onto the TR6. As soon as time allows, I will finish refitting the injection etc then look at the extra breather. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted May 13, 2020 Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 Just to help you, if you wanted! My breather is made from a piece of 6mm alloy plate, the same outline as the boss on the block. I put a short length of 15mm copper pipe, the residue of central heating work, through it, to make a connector. The pipe was epoxied into place, with the inner edge peened out against the alloy, which arrangment has proved secure. I also put a right-angle CH connection just outside to lead the rubber hose in a convenient direction. It's on the engine, in the car at present, but if you'd like a pic, I'll try! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 42 minutes ago, JohnD said: Just to help you, if you wanted! My breather is made from a piece of 6mm alloy plate, the same outline as the boss on the block. I put a short length of 15mm copper pipe, the residue of central heating work, through it, to make a connector. The pipe was epoxied into place, with the inner edge peened out against the alloy, which arrangment has proved secure. I also put a right-angle CH connection just outside to lead the rubber hose in a convenient direction. It's on the engine, in the car at present, but if you'd like a pic, I'll try! John Thank you John. If it's not too difficult to get a pic then yes please! Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted May 13, 2020 Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 44 minutes ago, JohnD said: Just to help you, if you wanted! My breather is made from a piece of 6mm alloy plate, the same outline as the boss on the block. I put a short length of 15mm copper pipe, the residue of central heating work, through it, to make a connector. The pipe was epoxied into place, with the inner edge peened out against the alloy, which arrangment has proved secure. I also put a right-angle CH connection just outside to lead the rubber hose in a convenient direction. It's on the engine, in the car at present, but if you'd like a pic, I'll try! John Worth noting that a !yorkshire" 15mm copper fitting has a very convenient bead/ridge that means a 16mm or 5/8 hose is an excellent fit. You can also use a compression fitting with a little ingenuity to clamp to a plate, or even a 15mm tank connector (which I have used to connect to my airbox) then a short bit of copper and a bead from a yorkshire fitting soldered on to help hold the hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted May 13, 2020 Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 "Yorkshire" fittings! That's the name! Come with their solder already in place, in those beads. Just heat'n'seal. Hope you can make that out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 Thank you John, and Clive. That looks very neat. I've done a bit of DIY plumbing in the past and may still have a few 15mm Yorkshire fittings somewhere. The question is... Can I find them?! Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 15, 2020 Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 I have a Huco fuel pump and could fit a crankcase vent via the old fuel pump. Can it be vented to air like the TR3a I had or does this screw up the vacuum rocker vent? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted May 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Iain T said: I have a Huco fuel pump and could fit a crankcase vent via the old fuel pump. Can it be vented to air like the TR3a I had or does this screw up the vacuum rocker vent? Iain My plan is to take the vent from the fuel pump clanking plate up to a baffled catch tank. Not sure exactly where the catch tank will be mounted. This is a work in progress! Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 11 hours ago, Iain T said: I have a Huco fuel pump and could fit a crankcase vent via the old fuel pump. Can it be vented to air like the TR3a I had or does this screw up the vacuum rocker vent? Iain PCV (the emissions valve or whatever it gets called) is a clever bit of kit, and best retained. I would use a t piece, so crank and rocker box pipes join and then a single feed to the PCV. The pcv should be almost shut at idle, and open at high rpm (when engines really start to breathe). Even better, feed both into a sealed catch tank with an outlet to the PCV. I can't use a pcv on my car, so next best is into the airbox. I used one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Engine-Round-Oil-Catch-Tank-Breather-Can-Silver-10mm-Fittings/253829607993?epid=12023006920&hash=item3b196c7239:g:TpwAAOSw-FRcJHNM Surprisingly heavy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Have you ever wondered what the oil filler cap that is used on some models with the PCV does. As the engine rev's rise and the PCV valve opens it draws in the crankcase gases, now to both assist the flow and dilute the gases the oil filler cap is fitted with a valve which at around nine pounds opens to allow in air. Like the PCV it should be shut at tick-over. I'll get my anorak and go. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Dave, the cap on mine, which looks just like that, has no valve in it. Just a metering orifice and a pellet of wire wool under the cap. Are there two variants? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Thanks for replies. My Huco is on two cotton reels fixed to a flat blanking plate where the old pump was. To get enough room to fit a right angle breather pipe outlet I'll make new Zed section blank plate to move the Huco out of the way then route as per Clive's post with a catch tank. After spending time money and effort to build a hopefully strong engine I want it as oil leak free as possible. Thanks again Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 2 hours ago, Nick Jones said: Dave, the cap on mine, which looks just like that, has no valve in it. Just a metering orifice and a pellet of wire wool under the cap. Are there two variants? Nick Nick, not that I known of. But having said that the orifice will restrict the flow and should achieve the same result. Quite likely changes took place at sometime over the production of the caps. Many thanks for the useful feedback. As I say you never stop find out new info. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 and then you fit a alloy cover and the cap only has a pop rivet hole and an open un gauze'd vent pipe Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 30 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: and then you fit a alloy cover and the cap only has a pop rivet hole and an open un gauze'd vent pipe Pete Pete, If it's closed circuit breathing system then leave the PCV in place and blank off the rocker breather pipe in the cover. On an open circuit breathing system then no problem, just fit a gauz'ed filter on the rocker cover breather pipe. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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