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Differential removal


aggie
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I've decided to remove the diff from my Mk 1 Spitfire for a long overdue recon.  It's been a struggle but I have removed everything except, of course the very long bolt which passes through the two rear mountings.  The nut came off okay and the bolt turns but, come out it will not.  I guess it's rusted to the steel inners of the old mountings ?  Any tips please.

Thanks.

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No argument with Pete (would I dare?) but how have you tried to remove it?   Rather than a hacksaw (takes forever) I'd suggest a thin (1mm) cutting disc on your angle grinder.

Some have success with a long bar as a punch against the end of the bolt.   The LONG bar means that your end is outside the car, you can use a really heavy hammer, and swing it!    I suppose that an electric impact driver might do as well.

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I'd echo the "What have you tried to remove it" question.

For me a big hammer and a very long drift (so you're swinging the hammer somewhere you have enough room to swing a cat) have always worked.  If you've tried that and it didn't work...try a bigger hammer :D

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Why did Triumph use a single long bolt on the Spit, Herald but on the Mk2 Vitesse, 2 separate bolts one for each mounting was it a Rotaflex issue? looking at the arrangement I can't see an issue!

If 2 separate bolts are OK for the Vitesse then 2 must be OK for the others.

My 68 Mk2 which I've owned since 1970 has 2 separate bolts and the parts manual quotes 2 bolts.

On a Spit 1500 we removed the diff front and internals by undoing the axles from the diff moving them out of the way, then pulled the stub axles out, then undid the front cross mounting pulling the front of the diff down then unbolting the two halves of the diff and pulled the front and all internals out, this left the diff rear casing in place and with it the spring and all suspension in place, we thought it was a lot easier, and not as heavy. Pulling the diff front mounting off the front bolts required a bit of force, but from memory this reassembly went OK.

An old Triumph mechanic who specialized in Triumphs here in Aus told us how it was done, the diff was professionally rebuilt and as they say assembly is the reverse of strip down.

the car was on a scissor hoist so it was a lying on your back job, but with good access only requiring one person job. 

Peter T

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best t,get it oot whilst its in bits

But, the rear case bit no needs t,come off t,get the diff bit oot

tek the front cross bar off, it,ll then drop doon, and case bolts can then be undone,

 

It does save tek,n the spring off, the inside bits too, {trim, carpet, cross brace, boards on a GT }

 

M

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Hey, WD40, a long drift and a club hammer ( as suggested )...........job done !  It will be two short bolts when it goes back and I've already done the drain plug.  Thanks to you all for your input, much appreciated.

Alun

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