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1976 Spitfire 1500


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2 hours ago, rozentas said:

will be is the axle taper the same between a spitfire and TR7?

That depends on the age of the TR7. Early ones used the Dolomite rear axle, which I'm fairly sure has the same flanges as the Spitfire. Later ones got a version of the SD1 axle and were probably different.

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1 minute ago, NonMember said:

That depends on the age of the TR7. Early ones used the Dolomite rear axle, which I'm fairly sure has the same flanges as the Spitfire. Later ones got a version of the SD1 axle and were probably different.

We’re the SD1 version axles completely different flanges or just slightly different?

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I am being told from a different source that the woodruff key is different dimensions for the tr7 flange than the spitfire flange.  I have a spare key and it seems to fit both but I am far outside my comfort zone here.........would anyone know whether the keys are common, the Rimmers code for the spitfire key is the same for Spitfire Herald GT6 but different for TR7, would it matter if I used the wrong key as it seems to fit

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Thanks spoke to Robsport they could not be sure.  I got hold of a TR7 flange, the same as Spitfire except for the key way. My original on left, the one I am not sure about in the middle, TR7 on right.

Does anyone know the size of the brake drum retaining screws as I have to tap a new hole.......yes I know the wheel will keep the drum on but if I can tap a hole I won’t feel so bad about breaking the screw

4CE89132-9504-49A8-93D8-0E98B49FBFF0.jpeg

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Is it just the camera angle or does the keyway for the TR7 look much larger? Have you measured the other two and compared? In terms of casting it looks very similar to the TR7 version; I wonder if the four-speed and five-speed hubs were changed during production?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I want to find who on the site is using glue to fit some body panels....I want to glue new front wheel arches to my wing rather than spot weld because the old arches were rotten and I had a lot of work to clean up the wing where the arches meet it and the wing is a replacement with rather a small flange into which the spot welds would normally go. Does anyone know who is doing this I am told he is restoring a Herald.....

D609E50A-B4B7-4307-9832-1DADE397F36D.jpeg

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I have done quite a bit of research into structural adhesives. You can find some details here...

https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/2623-intersting-clutch-master-cylinder-piston-mod-nose-to-tail-1972-spitfire-mkiv-restoration-upgrades/page/39/

It also rambles on for some of the pages before (page 35) and after (to page 41)

As you will see, I have used it on some of my bonnet panels and will be using it, eventually, on repair panels for my hardtop.

 

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just spent ages getting a search for Badwolfs  sticky episode and he's got there first  Ha 

took a bit of a search   but ....having found it    Grrr

 quote 

All in all it has taken an awfully long time to test the structural adhesives and choose the final one (Kent 2K Panel Bond), but hopefully it was worth it

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Sorry Pete.

In view of the length of my thread, which is getting more like a life story, I was thinking of putting some sort of index in the first post. Just for what I think might be of interest to others in the future. The adhesives, the back spring, the fuse box etc as even I have trouble referencing back. I did try to print it all but no joy there.

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Rozentas - You will have to be very careful bonding a wheelarch. As you mention, there is very little to actually bond to, just the lip in the wing along with the lip on the front strengthening plate. I would suggest augmenting the bond with pop rivets every 2 or 3 inches. Not to give any strength (although the rivets would act as inferior spot welds), but to act as clamps to ensure that the bond contacts both surfaces consistently. The bonnet support tubes should stop too much flexing of the bonded area. The Kent bond contains glass micro beads which act as spacers to prevent excess bond being squeezed out when clamped up. Clever idea in reality. Kent have also just brought out a new version but I haven't tested it. Unfortunately Kent is a trade only outfit but I have an insider who may be able to help if you are interested. If you need any more Info just ask.

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Pete - I don't, that's one for Kevin. When I started my thread, I never thought that it would interest anyone else. It was just a way of keeping all the info that everyone has given in on place so that I could refer back with using the search function. Some hope, but thank you everyone.

Edit - I have started an index on page 1 of my thread and will add and update it as and when I find things

Edited by Badwolf
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3 hours ago, Badwolf said:

Pete - I don't, that's one for Kevin. When I started my thread, I never thought that it would interest anyone else. It was just a way of keeping all the info that everyone has given in on place so that I could refer back with using the search function. Some hope, but thank you everyone.

Edit - I have started an index on page 1 of my thread and will add and update it as and when I find things

Thanks for that; it is excellent reading and very helpful, so keep it going.

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17 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Thanks for that; it is excellent reading and very helpful, so keep it going.

Thanks Colin. I am really surprised that my miscellaneous jottings have proved to be so popular. Could be because all my problems are common to so many people.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Purchased a brake line kit from Canleys, a couple of the lines are too short, so got my fuel line kit from Rimmers, should the fuel pipe shown be that short, I thought it should go all the way to the tank?34D941EF-6489-444F-8FEE-FC6955D6EDCB.thumb.jpeg.30a015c03acfbb5a385feeb621ad4dc0.jpeg

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21 minutes ago, DVD3500 said:

I just took out the tank of my '72 MKIV and there is a short goose-neck shaped piece of pipe from the tank to the fuel line that goes all the way to the front...

Following on from that, if I was fitting a stop tap in the fuel line, where is the best place to put it. Between the tank neck and the plastic pipe, in the plastic pipe or between the plastic pipe and the fuel pipe which in my case is 8mm copper microbore tube.

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