Badwolf Posted April 27, 2021 Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 I think that we've been here before! Something about a rotor arm sometime in the past. Just not sure of the most practical place to fit one. First for practicality, no good if it's under all the stuff in the boot. Safety also comes into it in that I don't want to put it where the connections might get damaged and allow fuel to escape. I suppose in the engine bay, before the fuel filter is the most practical....until someone comes up with a better idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted April 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 1 hour ago, DVD3500 said: I just took out the tank of my '72 MKIV and there is a short goose-neck shaped piece of pipe from the tank to the fuel line that goes all the way to the front... Is the join between the goose neck pipe to the fuel pipe in the boot or under it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DVD3500 Posted April 28, 2021 Report Share Posted April 28, 2021 It was under the trunk/boot because I discovered it dangling there and I pulled it through the rubber grommit from inside the boot/trunk... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted September 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 Stripped my headlight surrounds and they both have cracks, grateful for any advice about how to repair them, I guess they are alloy not steel and so my gasless Mig welder will not do the job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 Yes, alloy. I had a stripped thread in one of mine. Smeared some structural adhesive around the inside of the thread, lightly oiled the nut and carefully screwed in. Unscrewed just as the adhesive was going off and left to cure. It appears to have worked well, so using structural adhesive on the cracks may be suitable. Of course make sure that you clean out any muck and grease from the cracks before applying and clean off any excess bonding with a knife while it is setting and in a sort of plasticky state as it will set like concrete. Prime/undercoat/top coat as normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted September 5, 2021 Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 Alloy.? My guess is Masak. (what we know as "shit" metal back in the day) If I am right the chances of any succesfull "weld" are next to negligable. I would opt for an Adhesive solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted October 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2021 My gearbox did not have a detent spring when I got the car. Can’t figure out how to fit it. Do I put the plunger in first then the spring then the cap from outside the gearbox extension or do these need to be fit from inside the extension when the gearbox is dismantled? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 12, 2021 Report Share Posted October 12, 2021 you have to remove the rear cover fit the spring in the borehole with the plunger pointy end facing the shaft you have to feed the remote shaft over the plunger the cap just seals off the open end of the bore hole drilling dont recall on a single rail if this needs the whole remote off or from which end you feed the remote in sorry memory is fogged on that bit theres pin to remove it the end or the remote shaft to extract it ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted October 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2021 Thanks Pete, Is it necessary to fit these as I’d rather not dismantle the extension if I can avoid it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted October 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2021 Fitting my exhaust. I can see where all the mounts are except the one by the transmission. Grateful for advice of there is supposed to be an exhaust mount there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted October 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2021 Do you mean one of the extension bolts holds the hanger, I can’t see any other bolt holes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted October 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2021 Thanks a lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted October 25, 2021 Report Share Posted October 25, 2021 On mine there's a bracket on the chassis near the cross-piece under the front of the prop, but that may be different as mine's a Mk3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 31, 2021 Report Share Posted October 31, 2021 My current road-going Herald has this one to the rear of the gearbox. None of my others have anything between the manifold and the silencer, but it seems another support would help take the strain, especially off the manifold studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 31, 2021 Report Share Posted October 31, 2021 from canleys there is three one off the diff front carrier one off gearbox and one on the downpipes https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500&diagram=triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-exhaust-system-front-and-intermediate-pipes-all-markets-except-usa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted November 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Trying to start the car for the first time, no joy yet. Fuel in the tank but it’s not being sucked up to the carbs by the fuel pump when I turn the car over. I split the hoses just before the pump and tried to prime the system by turning the car over. Fuel did get to the rear carb at least because I saw it dripping out of the air filter. How do I get the fuel to the carbs without constantly having to prime the system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Ive actually pressurised the tank on my Vitesse blowing in the filler before and this helps pushes the fuel through the system. Lungs need to be good and not sure if its so easy on a Spitfire... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted November 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Ok that’s sorted now fuel is available at the carbs, only problem fuel is dripping out of the air filter how do I fix that, or is that happening because I have not yet been able to start the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Thats because the float valve hasnt shut completely so some fuel still keeps flowing into the chamber until it overflows. It can be because of too high pump pressure, dirt, worn valves or stuck valves. This last happens quite often to cars that dont get used regularly because the fuel in the chamber evaporates and leaves a stick residue. Tapping the chamber with a screwdriver can help to get the valves to seal or sometimes they just start to work when the residue gets disolved by the fresh fuel. You really need to fix the problem before driving as you dont want fuel dripping out near the exhaust manifold. You can try tapping or leaving it a while and having another go but if it persists the float valves probably need to come out for a clean... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted November 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 The float valves are new as I rebuilt the carbs but I get your drift, will take them off and check them, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Thats good news. Do you have a new pump or electric one? Try tapping the chamber or if youve got time wait a day or so. Of course one possible cause I forgot is a punctured or non working float but that is less likely... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted November 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 Mechanical pump, float valve does not leak I just fitted it from new. Since it’s the first time I filled the carbs since overhaul I’ll try a few times emptying and filling to see if the valve gets better, will giv3 it a few taps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 ok and I take it the valve is well sealed where it screws into the carb. I think there should be a washer and of course done up tightly. If you undo the float chamber you might be able to blow into the fuel inlet while manually operating the float to check that the valve closes correctly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 as you have disturbed the fuel hoses i guess it has no got the dreaded rubber slivers jamming the float valves these are made when you push fuel hose over the metal pipework and a small sliver gets chopped of and floats about till it jams in the back of the float valve ..these little sods are very common but the more you mess the more you make Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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