Aluminium hubs, large stubs and bearings.

[Adrian Saunders]

Hi guys. I’m fitting Al hubs, new larger stubs and bearings to my GT6. One side sets up ok but the other, the N/S, doesn’t. Usual quandary of split pin hole aligns and hub feels like it’s dragging/too tight or, other split pin hole aligns and the thick outer spacer turns with the hub! I’m not comfortable with the spacer turning as it’s doing so against the nut, and it just doesn’t seem right. I will check the torque on the nut when I can get hold of the right size socket as the instructions do state not to go beyond 8 lbs/ft. I’m not normally one for actually tightening a hub nut but, is that the thing to do with these hubs/bearings? Has anyone else had to tighten the hub nut more than you would normally? 

[Pete Lewis]

if the washer has no D hole are the bearings using a solid middle spacer such that the nut is nipped up tight and the spacer controls any end float ??

having a washer rotate against a nut is not the  best idea .

pete

[Adrian Saunders]

14 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

if the washer has no D hole are the bearings using a solid middle spacer such that the nut is nipped up tight and the spacer controls any end float ??

having a washer rotate against a nut is not the  best idea .

pete

No D hole in the washer, actually a spacer actin’s directly on the inner race Pete, the thread is a complete round too. No solid spacer either. I’m hoping that others have torqued to max 8 lbs/ft and had no issues. 

[Colin Lindsay]

This is what happens when someone uses a washer instead of the proper D washer; it rotates about and makes a mess of everything, resulting in a scrap stub axle.

 

[Adrian Saunders]

36 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

This is what happens when someone uses a washer instead of the proper D washer; it rotates about and makes a mess of everything, resulting in a scrap stub axle.

 

Colin, that’s exactly my concern. These are hubs and stubs from my usual source and not wishing to state the obvious (beware, he’s clearly about to state the obvious), I’m not the first person to fit these. 

[Nick Jones]

Is this the so called “big bearing Kit”?https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=uprated-front-hub-and-stub-axle-kit

I understand they work differently though not had hands on myself. Doesn’t it have instructions with it?

Nick

[Pete Lewis]

if the two races have a tube spacer between them this controlls the brg. end float and the nut is done up , in fact a modern  would use a nyloc type nut as if all is tightened up there is no rotational forces ,

none of this is how i was brought up , a cassette brg on a modern does not need to rotate on its hsg or shaft but olde taper races should so this is why the  race does rotate on the stub and rear trunions the outer race will rotate in its hsg.  then road impact is spread and never in the same place for its life

as you suggest you have a solid tube space/ spaced design shaft  between the races do the nut up to the specified torque and accept the design is going to work 

i feel these are the must haves to not have . lots of £££  little to gain over the design thats lasted 50 yrs 

just my ramblings on it 

Pete

 

[Adrian Saunders]

Ok. There isn’t a spacer between the inner races, it’s a spacer between the nut and the inner race of the outer bearing. 

[Pete Lewis]

ok so do what it says , whats the main problem  getting a split pin to align at 8lbft   or the hub becomes tight to turn 

these are not taper bearing so any pre load is down to the oil seals or something is fouling ???  maybe 

if they have integral seals i dont understand why they comment about  dont over grease , no grease should be needed as sealed brg are normally pre packed ??

tthey have spld a lot so theres some comfort that this should work .  but we have all been down thse routes over the years 

hard to say whats what by typing   Ha ! 

Pete

[Adrian Saunders]

49 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

ok so do what it says , whats the main problem  getting a split pin to align at 8lbft   or the hub becomes tight to turn 

these are not taper bearing so any pre load is down to the oil seals or something is fouling ???  maybe 

if they have integral seals i dont understand why they comment about  dont over grease , no grease should be needed as sealed brg are normally pre packed ??

tthey have spld a lot so theres some comfort that this should work .  but we have all been down thse routes over the years 

hard to say whats what by typing   Ha ! 

Pete

Pete, they are taper and the inner is supplied ungreased and separate as they install the outer race for you. Yes, might be ok at 8 ft/lbs or less. I was hoping that someone who had installed these would confirm. 

[NonMember]

It looks to be designed to work the same way as the original hub, so I'd expect the same nut tightening spec, which is along the lines of "pinch it up finger tight then back off until you can put the split pin through".

[Adrian Saunders]

1 hour ago, NonMember said:

It looks to be designed to work the same way as the original hub, so I'd expect the same nut tightening spec, which is along the lines of "pinch it up finger tight then back off until you can put the split pin through".

But the original has a washer that can’t rotate. It’s the washer (a spacer in this kit) rotating against the nut scenario that’s the concern. If however, someone who has fitted the kit and preloaded the bearings and not seen the rotation issue can confirm, then I’m happy. 

[Pete Lewis]

cant help much  i wont ask how the bearings are controlled   you do need someone who has assembled this design to get some faith in how it all works out  

it is unusual for taper brgs to not have end float especially with the wide changes in hub temperatures

im more convinced its a must have ...NOT  but when you get it to work you can convince me  Ha !!

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

I'm assuming the axles don't have any kind of cut-out for a d-washer option?

[Adrian Saunders]

28 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I'm assuming the axles don't have any kind of cut-out for a d-washer option?

Nope. 100% round. 

[thescrapman]

The instructions imply sealed cassette bearings, so do not need , nor a D washer.

 

 

[Adrian Saunders]

The bearings are roller and most certainly not sealed. As I said to Pete:
“Pete, they are taper and the inner is supplied ungreased and separate as they install the outer race for you. Yes, might be ok at 8 ft/lbs or less. I was hoping that someone who had installed these would confirm.” 

[Adrian Saunders]

10 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

ok so do what it says , whats the main problem  getting a split pin to align at 8lbft   or the hub becomes tight to turn 

these are not taper bearing so any pre load is down to the oil seals or something is fouling ???  maybe 

if they have integral seals i dont understand why they comment about  dont over grease , no grease should be needed as sealed brg are normally pre packed ??

tthey have spld a lot so theres some comfort that this should work .  but we have all been down thse routes over the years 

hard to say whats what by typing   Ha ! 

Pete

Pete, they are taper and the inner is supplied ungreased and separate as they install the outer race for you. Yes, might be ok at 8 ft/lbs or less. I was hoping that someone who had installed these would confirm. 

[Adrian Saunders]

Bearing packaging and picture off Misumi’s site. 

[Pete Lewis]

i would give dave a ring at canley's 

pete

[thescrapman]

I think 1 part of the kit is wrong, back to Dave without a shadow of a doubt to check.

[Adrian Saunders]

Curses. 

[GT6M]

If ye fit,n alloy hubs, they will spin eventually, even if loctited in.

they need t,be pinned onto the bearing, pref in 3 spots

 

seen too many ruined alloy hubs in both Triumph an Fords

Ask Dave aboot get,n em pinned,

Unless they noo pinn,n em