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GT6 Gutter termination at front


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Does anyone have totally original gutters on their MK3 GT6? I’ve repaired mine as per the picture because I found more than one picture in a book which looked like this. I just wondered how an original car’s gutters terminate. When I got my car they were square ended and looked as if someone had just cut off a rotten section and filed them square. 

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Back when mine were still original (before I had to repair the roof in 1993) I think they were something like that. I don't have any close-up detail photos, though, and my memory isn't that good to say whether the profile is just so.

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Here a pic of the gutter on my GT6. When the roof was repaired couple off years ago, we copied the roof corners from Eric, the McGowan's concours GT6 at the club museum.

I would be surprised if that wasn't done exactly as per original.

Nigel

 

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56 minutes ago, Adrian Saunders said:

Thanks Nigel. Your paint! Glorious. 

Thank you for the compliment Adrian! It's a modern clear over base paint system, matched to the original Triumph Pimento.

Before the respray, my GT6 was about six different shades of red/orange, where it had been blown in and faded. I'm hoping the modern system, protected by clear lacquer, won't oxidise and fade like celly or 2-pack. Time will tell, the respray was only just over 2 years ago.

Nigel

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6 hours ago, Nigel Clark said:

Thank you for the compliment Adrian! It's a modern clear over base paint system, matched to the original Triumph Pimento.

Before the respray, my GT6 was about six different shades of red/orange, where it had been blown in and faded. I'm hoping the modern system, protected by clear lacquer, won't oxidise and fade like celly or 2-pack. Time will tell, the respray was only just over 2 years ago.

Nigel

Who did your paint? I did my own and it’s awful. I’ll never paint a car again. 

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  • 1 month later...

been stripping my roof back, luckily for me its ahd a repair section already, its been well fitted and lead loaded 90% he must have ran out of lead and just used filler, it was about 3mm deep, the roof had lost its shape .i striped it all off with those nylon stripping wheels, i cleaned it all out and re leaded it, there was a lot of distortion from the initial repair, i had to knock down some highs and knock up some lows, skim of filler and it came out good, still needs to finish sanding but ive no stopper . you can now see the proper shape of the roof, the front gutter is good but i wanted to know about the split for water, hence the question before.

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Edited by Ian Faulds
wrong picture
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34 minutes ago, Ian Faulds said:

hi all, re the roof gutter , nigel is there a small split to let the water out like on old minis? just want to no as am doing my roof at the minute.

Hi Ian,

I know what you mean about the Mini gutters but no, there's no split on the GT6 gutter. The water seems to be expected to flow back down the gutters towards the rear of the car.

Good luck!

Nigel

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I can post some pictures of my gutters tomorrow. Although not original mine were sufficiently intact and unmolested at the start of restoration that I could make an authentic replication.

The key point is that the push on finishing strip should not sit flat to the seam all the way along: The ends should should flip up as 'ears' which then blend in a smooth curve into the gutters. This joint was originally brazed (I TIG'd then leaded mine). Anticipating the obvious question: Yes, this does leave a water trap but such is authenticity!

The replacement finishing strip I used (aftermarket, source unknown) was about once inch too long and thus an unreliable guide to authentic fitting.

Photos to follow.

On the related subject of how to refinish a distorted roof panel I was recently shown a good wheeze by an experienced bodyman. Having hammer/dollied the panel as good as one can get slather the whole thing with the cheapest filler available. Before the filler has dried hard (e,g, same day) coarsely cut it back with 40-grit on a flexi long bed sander. This will reveal where the metal high spots are and these can be dressed down/hammered/dollied - the filler won't split out provided its still not set hard. I tried this out and works well in getting the basic shape on which one can then improve with finer work.

 

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Hi Chris. I did similar with mine when all paint and filler was off I felt with a glove on all the highs and lows and using hammer and dolly tapped down highs and raised lows. I then filled the whole front and long boarded down  until I hit a few highs. At this point there's probably only. 1mm or. 2mm filler but it was level. First time for me doing this. I watched a few Americans on you tube though. This is my home made long board sander. Piece of plastic laminate floor and 2 old drawer handles. It's about 220 x 70 mm

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52 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

Ian,

That looks OK, but mine, picture earlier on, is unmolested factory original. 

Doug

Could it be the Triumph changed the way that they finished them? Ian and Doug, what years are your cars? I was talking to the owner of a GT6 at Le Mans in 2014 or 2016, I was getting some ref pictures of his car as mine was still at sill replacement stage and he insisted that his were original/as delivered. They were clearly MIG welded and not spot. The third picture is a gutter shot but also does anyone recognise the chaps in the background? We were on the club site, Tertre Rouge. Fourth & fifth pics are our elec supply on the lamppost. Not exactly 18’th Edition! 

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9 hours ago, Adrian Saunders said:

Fourth & fifth pics are our elec supply on the lamppost. Not exactly 18’th Edition! 

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Yikes!! Definitely third world. If that was the UK they'd be closed down immediately, there'd be a Government enquiry and campers would be suing.... 

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