Neil Barlow Posted May 14, 2020 Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 Took car on a weekend away just before lockdown, no issues at all. Drove the car a week later and stalled when slowing down. Got home to the garage stalled and will now not start at all. Changed plugs, turns over but appears to be no spark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 14, 2020 Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 You need to run through the standard tests, as described on a couple of recent threads here. - pull a plug, clamp it to somewhere grounded (rocker stud?) and check if there's a spark on it when you crank over - If not, try with the disi end of the king lead held (not by hand!) half a centimetre from the rocker stud. - If no spark there, try touching an earth wire to the coil -ve, which should produce a spark - If the coil is working, try opening and closing the points by hand (plastic rod!) to see if there's a spark then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 Our distributor is electronic and doesn’t look like any in the Haynes manual we have or the original owners manual. Do you know if anything in there would be replaceable? We have no spark at plug or coil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 14, 2020 Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 do you get a spark when its cranking, if so the ballast feed from the ign switch has failed do you have any clues who's electronic unit you have , maybe a picture has the ballast been bypassed , if yes , where is the feed coming from ? and some cheap makes of unit have a poor reliability some last and work fine has your rotor arm got a rivet in the sweep plate ? note related as you say no spark at coil. have you tried disconnect dizzy lead and add a short wire on the coil -ve and flick it to earth it should produce some spark from the coil HT does the coil get hot if left switched on ? sorry more questions than help Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 Thank you for suggestions, think we’re going to tow it to a garage as we don’t know many of the terms you are using. Think we’re out of our depth 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 14, 2020 Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 ok can we make it a bit simpler would that help a bit of DIY enthused have a go Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 We’ve taken deep breaths, released frustrations and going to try again 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 We definitely have fuel in tank, attempted getting a spark from plug again and we do have a spark. When I turn the key it does not fire. Now we know we do have a spark does that rule out electrical? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 14, 2020 Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 Not necessarily as the spark may be too weak. It's much easier to get a spark in fresh air than it is once under some compression, so a weak HT can appear to give a spark with the plug visible but not actually do so where it matters. However... Are the plugs getting wet as you crank? If you take one out shortly after failing to start, does it look moist? And does the exhaust smell of petrol? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 14, 2020 Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 It should try. Are the plugs wet with fuel? They should be if it's no firing. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 No, the plugs are brand new but not at all moist after cranking. No smell of petrol from exhaust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 14, 2020 Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 OK disconnect the fuel line from the carbs, stick the end in a jam jar and briefly turn the engine over. or use the priming lever on the fuel pump, if you have one (a lever I mean) You should get fuel in the jam jar. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 Thank you, we will try this in the morning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 14, 2020 Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 and also check when you pull the choke control the jets actually drop down (under the carburettor ) and that it returns ok when choke is returned the SU linkages are pretty awfull and things may not be operating fully Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 Choke control drop down and return ok. No fuel in jar at all, not a drip. Fuel pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 The fuel filter is new and also looks empty of fuel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 15, 2020 Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 Neil, You say you have fuel in the tank, is the fuel gauge telling you that? There is a common problem with the voltage stabiliser failing and causing the gauge to misread. I've had blockages in the fuel line, one time a fibre washer floating about in the tank and occasionally blocking the outlet. Or the fuel pump, did you discover if you have a priming lever on it? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 Definitely a full tank of fuel, no priming lever on the car. The fuel filter is new and also looks empty of fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 15, 2020 Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 'The filter doesn't necessarily fill up, mine's always around 1/3 to a 1/2 full. So blockage or fuel pump then? Easy to take the top of the fuel pump and examine the diaphragm, service kits are cheap enough on Canleys or Rimmers. The fuel pump has a lever raised and lowered by the cam shaft. The pump is easy to remove to check this out, just two bolts, then you can wiggle the lever and see if the pump works. Careful how you put it back, lever ON TOP of the cam! Or something far worse?!! The rotation of the cam is working the pump, so is the cam turning? Are the tappets going up and down? If they are you're OK! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 Thank you, we’ll have a look a bit later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Hi, just removed fuel pump, is the little black circle (diaphragm?) supposed to open and close when you wiggle the lever? It is pushing fuel through hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Barlow Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Sorry, we are by no means experts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 yes thats one of two small plate valves it should open with pressure stroke and close when the lever returns the other one is more inside the case not visible but if when you operate the lever it gives a good squirt then the pump is basically working, take care on refit that the lever is resting against the cam and not jumped under the cam lobe , there should be some sprung resistance when refitting it against its block face. now a bit of confusion to add the 1500 had a longer arm pump that all the others and plastic heat spacer is fitted between pump and block there are few replacements of these and most fit the std herald/spit pump, this has a shorter lever and if fitted with a spacer just wont pump very much is there any history of a pump change ???? if you fit the pump and remove a supply hose to the carbs do you get a well defined squirt , not a feeble dribble ??into a jar when cranking over Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 the diaphragm is the red rubber bit between the 2 halve of the body you would need to undo the screws which can be seen. The black circle is a one way valve. Ah Pete beat me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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