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Vitesse alternator bracket (block)


SixasStandard

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35 minutes ago, JohnD said:

Nice one, Colin!   I'm tempted by one, if only for the S/S bling!

Join the Club, John mate... 'twas the shine that caught me, too... plus the ease of adjustment. No more loosening the bolt that goes through the waterpump housing and getting water leaks...

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1 hour ago, SixasStandard said:

That's a very nice job Paul........and as per Colin's comment I'll be copying your cable clip........a nice neat solution.

Ian

The clip is just a folded strip of thin stainless steel offcut, used the same material for alternator fan shroud and for the fuel pipe clip fixed by one of the water pump housing bolts.

Regards

Paul

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5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Well, boat people have plenty of money... :)

Steady on Colin, not all of us!  However, a rigging screw/turnbuckle will be A4 stainless and not A2 because of the salt water immersion, and a failure potentially means the mast coming down rather than the fan belt coming loose.  Dick

ps Just back from the boat; I avoid sailing on a weekend, leave that to the working classes.

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8 minutes ago, Dick Twitchen said:

ps Just back from the boat; I avoid sailing on a weekend, leave that to the working classes.

Yes, those damned plebs do block the waterways, don't they?

The people who sail the kind of boat I like have plenty of money, though...

10-Triple-Deuce.jpg.3cc001f2034c8b69933211139688b760.jpg

 

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10 minutes ago, Iain T said:

+1 for Colin's solution it looks good and I need some s/s bling on my black engine!

I take it you just cut off one of the legs of the end U bracket?

Yep; measure the length so as to order the correct size of the one you want, then one of the end clips requires trimmed at one side.

This kind gent has saved me a lot of typing:

https://myquickfix.co.uk/2016/07/10/gt6-spitfire-diy-alternator-bracket-improvement/

This one is only £4.99 and in the right length:

https://www.gsproducts.co.uk/8mm-stainless-steel-rigging-screw-jaw-jaw/

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53 minutes ago, Iain T said:

+1 for Colin's solution it looks good and I need some s/s bling on my black engine!

I take it you just cut off one of the legs of the end U bracket?

Or, preferably, make up spacers to fill the clevis, and use a longer bolt.   Then, bolt and clevis in shear, no leverage.

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No, Colin, not if the clevis is in front of the alternator and you have lined that up, using shims or whatever.

Look at your own  pic and imagine that.

altadjust2.jpg.41d8cfd7611d555339c91950d626608c.jpg

PS why the fibre washers under the locknuts?  They'll work loose.

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13 hours ago, JohnD said:

PS why the fibre washers under the locknuts?  They'll work loose.

No idea, they were there when I bought it... that photo was taken in 2010 and it hasn't dropped off yet!

(It does get adjusted regularly at fanbelt changes etc.. maybe next time I'll remove them...)

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You made me think again!   This part is stainless and stainless is prone to seizing, as small areas cold-weld together.    If the lock-nut is forced against the barrel, could the washer be to protect it from seizing?

But no!   Cold-welding is the result of micromovement and localised heating.    A washer may prevent contact between the nut and the barrel, but allow more movement at the threads, which when the nut is locked are forced together, and may cold-weld and seize, like this:

vreten.jpg?context=bWFzdGVyfHJvb3R8MzQwNzN8aW1hZ2UvanBlZ3xoOWMvaGUyLzg4MDg4NjQwODgwOTQuanBnfGRhZTgxZjI4NDczMDMyNjQ4MjUxZmVjMjQ5OWZjOWQ2ZjRkZjlhZTczOWYzZjk4YzYzNmNmODg4YTEyNTgwNGM

The engine bay is as hostile an environment as the sea, which rigging screws are designed for.    Heat is said to be a factor in inducing cold-welding!    Antiseize lubricants are recommended, so Hypoid gear oil???    But I think I will use copper grease on the threads, and leave the nut-to-barrel interface naked.

Thanks, Colin, for making me think and research!

John

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Colin,

I'm with you there we all need more fun🤡 in these trying times the Jokes section has kept my spirits up🥃

If you want a turnbuckle (they do look good) why not rose jointed ends to take up any offset? If they are good enough for track rod ends they must be good enough for adjusting a fan belt tension. I'm off to do some general car twiddling so I'll investigate!

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36 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

but a rose joint does not aid support like a  strap  might 

Pete

Eh?   Please explain, Pete.   Colin's attachment to the alternator is in double shear, very secure, when a joint would has to be in single.   That your meaning?

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  • 4 months later...

The alternator bracket on my GT6 has been a bit of a bodge for a while. Looking at the parts book, it wasn't an original one and the forked section has always seemed a little short. When I changed my alternator a few years ago for one of the same type and pulley size, at the most extended position the fan belt was a little too loose, so I bolted a wishbone shim to the end of the bracket to extend the adjustment fork. It's worked fine for 2-3 years, but has never been a particularly elegant solution, so at the weekend I installed a shiny, rose-jointed one purchased from eBay. Really pleased with it and yes, I did use lots of copper slip 😀

Gully

 1638775339_AlternatorBracket-New.jpg.0ed1593ecb6572ffadb07b5208b2c381.jpg

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