dave.vitesse Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 I confirm there is a spacer, fitted by the factory, on tracking arm. It's fitted to the out bolt. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 Thanks Dave , Im not dreaming then Adrian i wouldnt want a short nut on a steering arm !!!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted May 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 1 hour ago, dave.vitesse said: I confirm there is a spacer, fitted by the factory, on tracking arm. It's fitted to the out bolt. Dave Any pictures or dimensions of the spacer. I assume it’s on both bolts on the arm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 Seeing you can buy different thickness nyloc nuts I cant see it being that much of an issue. But I suppose it depends how much you take of them. On the prop shaft nuts the bolts didnt protrude from the nylocs and as I didnt have any shorter ones in stock I took 3 to 4mm off them. A rule of thumb thread depth 1-1.5 x times the diameter of the thread but came across this recently https://www.element.com/nucleus/2016/06/29/six-fascinating-facts-about-fasteners Fastener Fact 1 If you’ve ever designed a part with a tapped hole, you may have wondered, “How many threads do I need to make a strong connection?” The answer is that it varies, but six at most. Because bolts stretch slightly when load is applied, the loading on each thread is different. When you apply a tensile load on a threaded fastener, the first thread at the point of connection sees the highest percentage of the load. The load on each thread decreases from there, as seen in the table below. Additional threads beyond the sixth will not further distribute the load and will not make the connection any stronger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 3 hours ago, Gadgetman said: Any pictures or dimensions of the spacer. I assume it’s on both bolts on the arm? No pictures, but it is as Pete has said the same as the caliper washer. It's about the thinness of two head stud washers and It only on the front bolt facing the ballpoint. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted May 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 12 minutes ago, dave.vitesse said: No pictures, but it is as Pete has said the same as the caliper washer. It's about the thinness of two head stud washers and It only on the front bolt facing the ballpoint. Dave Great thanks i’ve plenty of hard steel washers so will “ shim as required” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 even thats a bit odd to keep the abutted faces square i would like to see a washer on both bolts thats Me Thinks Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: even thats a bit odd to keep the abutted faces square i would like to see a washer on both bolts thats Me Thinks Pete I agree, but that what they did! It may be the arm is made to allow for this. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 Dave thats a thought, in trucks we had a TSA temporary substitution authority to make urgent on the spot engineering changes to get out of problems quickly or revise specifications without trawling through the maze of how to do it properly . Triumph must have a similar set up ,probably why the spacer never got added to the parts listings , done on the track process was as far as it went Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 Yes Pete it sound right. The other possibility is they were using bits out of the parts bin and then just added additional parts to make it work. But, your thoughts sound more likely. A field mod then put into production, but not fully documented or processed I guess. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 Dave , you mean my rorty ViT6 was really a Standard 8 !!!!!!!!!! Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted May 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 With the front bolt removed the arm sits flat against the vertical link so I’ve added 0.162” of washers to front and rear bolts between the vertical link and the arm, that will do nicely... new high tensile bolts with the correct grip length ordered as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 dont you just love a cheap fix with hints of originality Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 31, 2020 Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 On 30/05/2020 at 19:07, Pete Lewis said: then add some decent washers ???? ( reset the toe in) like you sometiimes do for calipers def not on any parts list but the idea is from somewhere Can I ask what you mean by the 'calipers' comment Pete? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 1, 2020 Report Share Posted June 1, 2020 on some to centre the caliper to the disc they added shim washers to equal up the >||< Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 1, 2020 Report Share Posted June 1, 2020 Hmmm I've always had a problem with one of my calipers taking ages to fully bed in new pads because it runs at a slight angle to the disc so I suppose it might be possible to shim it square? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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