MJH2454 Posted June 19, 2020 Report Share Posted June 19, 2020 Not sure if this topic belongs in here but any way. How do you stop the rear hub from turning when you want to remove the wire wheel hub adaptors to service the brake shoes etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 Use the handbrake but as you want to service the brakes that might not be working option. Have the brake pedal pressed either with a length of wood jammed between the steering wheel/seat front or use a length of person to press the pedal. If its getting desperate and either of those options don't work you could lock it up at the universal joint on the axle you are working on. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 An impact gun, if you have one, gets them started which is the difficult part. I have a recollection when restoring my GT6 that you can slide the wheel on back to front on the adapter, chock so it does not revolve and there is just enough room to get at the nuts. Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 9 hours ago, MJH2454 said: Not sure if this topic belongs in here but any way. How do you stop the rear hub from turning when you want to remove the wire wheel hub adaptors to service the brake shoes etc? I made a tool that locks onto the ground. It will help tightening also Roger 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark powell Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 Where did you get those nuts, Roger? I could do with a set to replace the 'ground down' ones on my Midge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 And did you know that that spline size goes way back. I had a set of 2nd hand wires for my Vitesse and the spline was the same as on my parents Lagonda Rapier from the 1930s. I sold the wires as they were going to be more trouble than good. Same with the spinners, if you want to confuse the great unwashed you can put a set from a Jaguar on your car. And if you are still working on your car and don't want to get the spinners damaged you can pick up a set of roughies from other brands for the duration. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJH2454 Posted June 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 2 hours ago, RogerH said: I made a tool that locks onto the ground. It will help tightening also Roger That is a clever little tool, shall have to see if I can get one made Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 3 hours ago, mark powell said: Where did you get those nuts, Roger? I could do with a set to replace the 'ground down' ones on my Midge. From Moss P.No 110367 Nuts item 67 Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 If I recall, those TR nuts should be 7/16" but a Herald or Spitfire based Midge will have 3/8" wheel studs. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 that explains why you can get a spanner on them , the small chassis range are notoriously difficult nasty things where you can get 1/2 a flat if youre lucky and no hope of a socket Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 41 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: that explains why you can get a spanner on them , the small chassis range are notoriously difficult nasty things where you can get 1/2 a flat if youre lucky and no hope of a socket Pete Exactly. The 4" PCD of the TR also gives more space for a spanner. Small chassis PCD is 3.75". I can't even get a slim box spanner on the Spitfire's wire wheel adaptor nuts. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 it explains why i have a avid hate of the things ha ! never tried but i guess there in no room to fit a extended/deep nut to aid access with something that fits Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Cooper Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 I agree, the splined adaptor is a dreadful piece of design. I eventually gave up trying to keep them tightened up with ring spanner and I used an angle grinder to cut a slight relief on the adaptor so that there is now enough clearance to get a thin walled socket on the nuts. It only needed 1 or 2mm of metal ground away and I figured that it would not compromise the strength of the part to any significant degree. 30 years and 160,000 miles later they have neither worked loose nor broken off. Adrian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiajon Posted August 10, 2020 Report Share Posted August 10, 2020 I have gone down the steel wheel route and 3 of my 4 wire wheel adapters are now on the work bench. The fourth one however is still attached to the car! I can not get the nuts off! Any suggestions before I get the angle grinder out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 10, 2020 Report Share Posted August 10, 2020 spin an extra nut on and a dab of weld to co join the two then a socket will fit to release the orig nut Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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