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No Oil Pressure Vitesse mk2


Paul H

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32 minutes ago, Paul H said:

Hi thanks again for all input I will loosen the filter , remove the plugs and fire up until oil is visible . How long should I fire up for each time 10 secs ? And finally how many times before I have to give up 

Nb I still have the old filter from the Club . I could fit that loosely ? 

Paul 

another thought I could drop the oil and refill   , could that be helpful in removing the possible airlock 

 

Can't see any point changing oil Paul and if oil doesn't leak (spray?) from the loosened filter almost immediately you've got a serious problem that will need internal access☹️

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35 minutes ago, Paul H said:

Hi thanks again for all input I will loosen the filter , remove the plugs and fire up until oil is visible . How long should I fire up for each time 10 secs ? And finally how many times before I have to give up 

Nb I still have the old filter from the Club . I could fit that loosely ? 

Paul 

another thought I could drop the oil and refill   , could that be helpful in removing the possible airlock 

 

Take the filter off Paul and pour some oil into the pump, then fit the filter again but leave loose. I am sure that it will work. 

Tony.

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46 minutes ago, Paul H said:

another thought I could drop the oil and refill   , could that be helpful in removing the possible airlock 

 

No gain from dropping the oil. I wouldn’t run the engine with the filter loose - the mess potential is enormous! Really shouldn’t take more than 10 seconds of cranking to get oil to the filter, though a few more may be needed to fill it and the rest of the oil galleries once the filter is screwed home.

In VW circles Fram is known as “the orange can of death”. To be fair I think that relates to a specific listing with no internal relief valve - a fatal combination with poor maintenance.

Been using spin-on adapters for 30 years plus Pete..... I like a rattle-free start 🙂

Nick

 

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Another vote of confidence for the Mann filters from me. I use the 714/2 without any problems and oil pressure comes up in about 3 seconds. And a thumbs up for Poppyman's suggestion of how to prime the pump from above down the filter hole, I presume that is via the holes around the circumference and not the big hole in the middle?

Adrian

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4 minutes ago, Adrian Cooper said:

Another vote of confidence for the Mann filters from me. I use the 714/2 without any problems and oil pressure comes up in about 3 seconds. And a thumbs up for Poppyman's suggestion of how to prime the pump from above down the filter hole, I presume that is via the holes around the circumference and not the big hole in the middle?

Adrian

I think i would be doing both to make sure..... Only because i cant remember which way the oil fills the filter :) Convinced it will work though, yes could make a mess but better to have oil pressure. Should be ok if two people are doing it? one watching the filter.

Tony. 

 

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Just now, Colin Lindsay said:

The big hexagonal cover that sticks out under the pressure take-off / switch, yes. 

So take it off and will oil come out ? What do I do to check it’s ok . What does the PRV do ? 

Paul 

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PRV is "Pressure Relief Valve" - it prevents the oil pressure getting too high when the pump's working hard, by opening up and bleeding the excess oil back into the sump... or the pump inlet. I'd have to check the plumbing diagram, because if you remove the PRV and its outlet is to the inlet side of the pump then there's a big air leak just where you need to get all the air out. I'd stick with the loosen-the-filter method.

 

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yes think that's right, with the prv removed the pump can suck in air so no chance of priming. However if you don't like the idea of bleeding from the filter there's a threaded blanking plug in the pump discharge gallery just above the prv. If this is taken out or loosened oil should be forced out when turning the engine...

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In the manual it looks like the oil is drawn up the intake tube up the outside of the pump casing to where a T is machined. This is the entrance to the inlet at the top of the impeller but also continues up to match with a hole in the base of the block casting which is the discharge of the prv. It makes sense as the pump should always remain full of oil even if the sump is drained and is neater than dumping excess back directly to the sump...

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2 hours ago, johny said:

In the manual it looks like the oil is drawn up the intake tube up the outside of the pump casing to where a T is machined. This is the entrance to the inlet at the top of the impeller but also continues up to match with a hole in the base of the block casting which is the discharge of the prv. It makes sense as the pump should always remain full of oil even if the sump is drained and is neater than dumping excess back directly to the sump...

So my suggestion of running the six with PRV is a bad idea!
Maybe check that it is seated though before doing anything else?

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Re Mk2 Vitesse PRV nearly 50 years ago had a problem when driving the wife to catch a very early morning flight I noticed the oil pressure gauge had dropped from its normal >60psi to <40psi I pushed on as time dictated and I had OK pressure at just under 40psi at> 2000rpm on getting to Middleton I parked immediately shutting down, dumped the wife & had a good look round no oil leaking so as the only thing I could externally check I removed the PRV it looked OK, put my clean hanky on a screwdriver poked it down the PRV hole, all looked OK no perceivable blockage, valve OK, spring OK, so put it all back and whoopie oil pressure back up to >60psi where its remained to today!  The oil pressure would drop to around 20psi at lower revs, but I cannot remember if the oil pressure light came on at idle as I shut the engine down immediately on parking.

So without looking at the oil route could a stuck open PRV just let the oil circulate or blow off without building up pressurize, don't think I saw a response on the PRV findings 

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