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1976 Spitfire 1500


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Bonnet is off and stripped ready for the blasters, I had an interesting time getting that off by myself

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Started stripping the doors but didn't manage to workout what Mr Haynes was telling me about removing the glass and mech, one to finish for another day. The skin on this door is to be replaced.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Doors, bonnet, boot lid and quarter valences went off to the blasters. These guys restore vehicles all the time and recommended blasting with garnet.

Incredibly quick turnaround time, I dropped them off late Friday and they were completed by Monday.

The bottom of the doors were coated in rubberised paint and was time consuming to get off which doubled the estimated price and they advised me the quarter panels were mostly filler and not worth doing as they were too far gone.

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I have a new door skin for the holy door to go on.

The bonnet is rather concerning but my mate who owns a garage with a bodyshop says its repairable. I have heard talk of a bonnet repair panel to resolve corroded front areas just like mine but I cant find it on any of the usual sites. I also have a couple of small perforations on the wheel arches but unsure if its worth getting new wings or repair what I have.

Going to chuck some primer on to protect against the rust in the meantime.

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Managed to pick up a body rotisserie from a member on one of the Triumph facebook pages for a decent price. I am going to convert it to have wheels and stick some paint on it as it is a little rusty, I'll post pictures when its all tarted up.

Little spit is living outside at the moment under a cover as the garage is now full of body panels and rotisserie

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You might want to have a look at this page (inded the whole thread is very interesting)

https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/208066/1953-jowett-jupiter-body-restoration?page=24

This restorer has very (OCD) high standards but also works old school AND with up to date methods on classic cars. Apologies if I have already directed you to his work. I have followed, (as you may gave seen from my restoration thread) many of his techniques as I don't weld, and used many of the products that he recommends. Not the cheapest but very good.

You should find most of the bonnet repair panels here..

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005862

With the exception of the bonnet nose repair panel which I can't find. You could also try the usual othercrecommended suppliers.

Edited by Badwolf
updated
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I've not come across bonnet nose repair panels, which may seem a little odd as the rust you have is VERY typical. There must surely be demand for them. Back in 1993 I repaired very similar rust on my GT6's bonnet with a bit of metal bashing and more than ideal amounts of filler. It wasn't the thing that condemned the bonnet to full replacement (with a Heritage whole bonnet) in 2001.

Are you going to need to repair the bottom of the door frame on the holey one?

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some thing to consider i used from recommendations a marine epoxy filler , its tough to flat but its waterproof so wont suck up like a sponge even door skin repairs lasted many years 

she's long sold so no idea how time has done its bit but far superior to the usual offerings where filler is the only other option 

Pete

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The strengthening (stiffener) piece which runs along underneath the front of the bonnet is still available. I think it is this one..

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-815010

If I were needing to do this, I would cut out the worst of the damage. Replace the siffener piece, treat any remaining rust with bilthamber 80 or your favourite rust remedy. Then cut some plate to fit inside the bonnet to meet up with the stiffener piece, both bonding and riveting it into place and then profile using the best filler you can source. Not ideal but the alternative will be very expensive I fear. Finish off after painting by flooding the nose with dinitrol cavity wax. My steel bonnet had problems there, I have just found some of the repairs done 30 years ago and they have lasted well, though not as severe as yours. Others on here will offer different ideas.... listen to them all and distill the best to suit yourself. Good luck.

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If you followed my other post "Repair or Replace" you would have known I found a new nose repair panel in Paddocks and I ordered wings,  bonnet strengthener and door bottom repair panel.

These arrived

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The nose panel sort of fits but one edge needs a curve introducing and the centre needs a cut to fit to make it fit correctly

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Had a bit of a cutting day. I cut out the rot on the bonnet front in preparation to butt weld the new repair panel on.

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and the wings

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Need to grind back the joints, retrieve my welder I lent to a mate and start metal glueing it all back together with new metal

 

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  • 1 month later...

Carrying on from your other post about this panel, I now understand. The outer half of the wheel arch is there, I originally thought that it was missing, hence the gap. From this angle it looks very strange. Perhaps some different angles in the morning may help. When you had both wings together was there no obvious difference in the 'mirror images' between the two? Perhaps the welding flange has not been folded far enough. There is something very weird here.

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My first instinct was that the flange where it attaches to the bonnet top is not bent over enough, leaving the wing hanging outwards. That would be easy to adjust, to see if it brings it more into line. However, the front profile of the wing also looks a little too straight.

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On 04/07/2020 at 22:08, Badwolf said:

The door locking and window mechanisms were designed by sadists. When you start to strip them out take photos, make notes/drawings and label/bag everything. They will not come out or go back without a fight and loss of skin/temper.

Just going back up the thread (due to the new forum layout!) and noted this very good point - also, make sure you keep the screws / nuts / bolts with the bits they came off as you can have fun later on matching them to the components, and you'll fit a spare when you can't find the original only to find it's too long and fouls the glass or the mechanisms. Been there and learned the hard way!

I'm also surprised that Fitchett's parts are a poor fit; they're normally very good; but I do hate to hear that term 'fettling' from a supplier - it usually means they've got guys who have spent years restoring Triumphs and can make it look easy, and know where to cut / bend / adapt whereas the rest of us are lost from the word go.

 

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As soon as you start to 'fettle' something, any guarantee goes out of the window but I am surprised that you didn't notice any difference between the left and right panel when they arrived as they should be a direct mirror image. As for being told that they would need work to make them fit, I would have sent the remaining order straight back. If they don't fit, don't sell them. That is an admission of substandard goods. I had the same from P*ddocks. It went back.

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1 hour ago, hardhatharry said:

They are from 2 different suppliers, it was deep in Covid time when I ordered and only 1 seller had passenger panels available. I expected them to be right and cracked on with the job hence not comparing the two side by side.

 

Perhaps the steelcraft supplier will have one in stock by now. Hopefully it will turn out for the best

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