Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Still continuing on the fitting P700 lights to a spitfire. I know it can be done as I have seen a spitty with them fitted. I took the units apart to see the nodules people mentions which stops the sealed units spinning under the beauty ring but these units don't have them. They do have 3 clips on the unit which tie with 3 gaps in the adjuster ring but the units are too shallow for the clips to tie into the adjuster ring gaps. I have seen these clips on the back of old brit sealed units when restoring old triumph bikes and they tie into W clips, would W clips work here? Any other advice?IMG_20210430_155946.thumb.jpg.f96956dc0df0b52e51387dadf6de1c97.jpgIMG_20210430_160800.thumb.jpg.222dd079c734c68a175df0bdd0532868.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 185
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Received a refund on the Fitchett wing and received a Paddock one which was a better fit. Got the new wing fitted and flipped the bonnet over. Then a bit of filler and checked the alignment.

Productive day today, first job of the day was to remove the battery box. Armed with the knowledge from a few youtube vids I girded my loins and dove in. It quickly became apparent that the guy in Tri

With work giving us a well being half day for work through the latest lockdown it was time to tackle the rot in the passenger side wheel arch. First cut away some of the wheel arch to see what the ext

Posted Images

At that point trying to make everything fit and inline before paint. Its quite satisfying connecting all the bits back together.

I also ordered a different headlight bowl set from Paddocks to see if that sorts out the spinning headlight issue.

IMG_20210501_151721.thumb.jpg.3f6721a7c6ac60e5d8a9a43ad8f1a342.jpgIMG_20210501_161336.thumb.jpg.dc40bd9343b32f89938aca3176f5e7a7.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
41 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Is that the inner steel bowl you've ordered? I was just about to suggest that!

Ordered the whole lot including the inner steel bowl, lets see if I can make something out of both sets

Link to post
Share on other sites

Struggling fitting the o/d adaptor plate to the single rail gearbox. There is a dowel type rod that sits in the adaptor plate (marked in the picture) but it seems to be hanging on it and stopping the plate going down even after tapping with a rawhide hammer. I have cleaned up the dowel and its nice and smooth, does it require some force to get it to fit. The bolts that connect the adaptor plate to the gearbox will span the gap and I could slowly use the bolts to pull the plate to the gearbox if required but that feels like a last resort.

154111811_adaptorplate.jpg.a69c3d2904cf6dfa815cfe5c0b149c6b.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

The bar sticking out of the main casing is the reverse idler spindle and that hole in the adaptor is its rear support so has to be a good fit. The adaptor should tap down into place and I think its preferable to do it like that than use the bolts which might not pull down evenly - obviously a bit of oil on it will help. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Found out why the adaptor plate would not seat. the reverse idler spindle was not fully home. Unfortunately with all my messing a couple of needle rollers escaped and the spindle is not running as freely as it should. My assumption is the only way of getting the needle rollers back in is to completely remove all the gubbings from the gearbox to get to the idler gear. If I have to do that I might as well replace all the bearings and refurbed the gearbox.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

not sure if we're getting mixed up here? The reverse idler doesnt have any rollers as it runs directly on the spindle (well it turns slowly and isnt used very much) and the only loose rollers in the box are in the laygear. There are 25 at each end of the layshaft and they are important but everything else has to be removed to get to them.

I dont know what youve done on this box but I would certainly want to look at the layshaft and mainshaft tip bearings and more importantly the surfaces they run on. However I would only replace the items that need it because the durability of new replacements is an unknown...   

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...