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Gt6 Mk1 repeatedly blowing fuse - it's back


Colin Lindsay

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On 04/08/2020 at 16:28, Pete Lewis said:

chris witor is 110 +vat 

overdrive spares   120 + vat 

Just to confirm it's an NKC41? Most suppliers list it for Sprint, TR6, Stag and 2000 / 2500 so I'll need it for an 1850 gearbox?

Really missed it on the run yesterday, 180 miles at 4000 rpm would have been quieter at 3500 rpm...

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Have ordered a replacement, £140 plus £6 postage. Couldn't be bothered faffing about with adding VAT to both purchase price and carriage like many suppliers do - even the Chris Witor version at £110 ends up over £140 all in, so just went for a buy-it-now on eBay. 

I've stripped the interior out yet again and tested the circuit; power gets to the solenoid in 3rd with the switch on, and stops when I flick the switch off, so the solenoid is definitely dead. I may repair it to destruction when it's removed, just for the fun. No more fuse-blowing, though - I may have cured that issue but will only be really certain once the new solenoid is fitted and works.

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marcus did a long trial and error post about j type solenoids  cant say how far it moves from memory but if it maracas when shook but you must check the 0 rings inside now you have got this far only takes a few minutes , pop the clip and the piston/plunger just slides out you cant wreck anything .

Pete

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No noise, no movement. Completely solid.

By the way - who was it that posted recently about removing a solenoid, and I quote: "You'll only get a thimblefull of oil..." 

I've just gone out to the garage and met an entire pool of gearbox oil on the floor... mine has emptied completely. I think I misread that post...

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Colin I’m confused after the video you advised yours moved like video, then in the last post you state it’s solid!

similarily mine seemed not to click in the box but definitely clacked and moved after cleaning and on the bench.

Marcus any feedback re amount of movement in video is it enough!

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14 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:

Colin I’m confused after the video you advised yours moved like video, then in the last post you state it’s solid!

I meant no noise or movement when shaken, Peter, it clicks as the video when powered up but no rattling when I shake it. No 'Pete's Maracas'... 

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think marcus said they had a rattle  ,  do they have maracas in scotland 

my guess the 0 rings are making it sluggish 

i didnt get much oil from mine as i recall but  .....thats on a big saloon box , so angle of dangle and levels are quite different 

oil on floor is a std triumphism 

Pete

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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:

i didnt get much oil from mine as i recall but  .....thats on a big saloon box , so angle of dangle and levels are quite different 

oil on floor is a std triumphism 

Pete

I had a lake..... removed the solenoid, small dribble emerged, so I wasn't too worried when it slowed to a drip. Overnight though it must have really erupted.

I've managed to remove the circlip and a small brass cap with spring has reluctantly come out, but the plunger will not shift now at all. Not even the small movement I had before when connected to the battery.

If the new one arrives I can refit and refill, but one question: what washer does it require? The original had a plain copper washer, but I've been reading a lot of posts on dozens of forums and some are saying it requires a dowty washer? 

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

but i reckon a nice copper washer would be ok , did the old one leak ??? 

Pete

No, didn't leak at all so might just go for copper again. From the look of it, this is the first time it's ever been removed.

The new solenoid has arrived and it's slightly different; leads are sealed inside the body as opposed to external spade connectors but the brass end is exactly the same. Connections here are green / white and brown - which one should I use as earth? (Am thinking brown but like to check first) Does it even matter?

DSCF9466.jpg.daf84f8d3b4e147f5fae95a4f78e5f5b.jpg

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just looked dolly sprint wiring and that does  not match as yellow/purple   and  black

the 2000wsm dosnt have a overdrive wiring    its gas powered !!!   haynes makes more use but still Y/P  and Slate colours  

doesnt help much

some coils like polarity so anyones guess 

Pete

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It was listed by the seller as Triumph TR6 / Stag / 2500 / 2000 and Dolomite Sprint but I've checked most of those online and their wiring is all either black / yellow or plain green.

No trace of anything similar on Volvos either. The plug-in end connection points to something modern, or more so than our Triumphs.

It's just not my day; what should have been a simple fit has left me with an unidentified solenoid, no gearbox oil and a replacement tunnel from the Club Shop that has turned out to be a Herald version, not GT6. This car hates me.

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Some coils are polarised and work better one way than the other. Relays designed for electronic operation sometimes have a built-in diode - they are essentially short-circuit if fitted the wrong way - but more often it's a case of the core being a permanent magnet to pre-load the mechanical parts. If you put the current through the right way then you only need a little current to get enough magnetic flux to operate. Wiring this sort backwards won't damage anything but they won't work. I got caught out by this on a PCB-mount relay that was available from two different manufacturers with everything identical except the coil polarity. To make it worse, the supplier I used listed them as direct equivalents.

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Interesting bit on that schematic about 'testing for ground on one solenoid terminal'... but doesn't say how to do it. I just need to identify which is earth and I'm happy.

52 minutes ago, NonMember said:

Wiring this sort backwards won't damage anything but they won't work. 

Any way to tell by using a multi-meter? 

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Unfortunately it’s the weekend (and were still in lockdown) but our old neighbour has a relatively large gear manufacturing business his nephew had a side business specialising in 4wd equipment and sold a Modern US overdrive option for the previous model Toyota Landcruiser which was a direct copy of the Laycock J type I would run down and find out if the solenoid wiring was relative it’s colours and what the solenoid looked like?

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1 hour ago, Peter Truman said:

Thinking about the polarity the old solenoids didn’t appear to be polarity sensitive as they just had two same sized spade terminals so supply and earth could go on either so why would it’s replacement    which has flying leads be any different?

That's what I was thinking; on my old one the two terminals are the same with no identifying markings. I've just nipped out and double checked but the two terminals are the same, no marks on end plate or case. On the new one the green/white is marked A and the brown, B.

It's just my luck that as soon as I make a choice, someone will post: "DO NOT under any circumstances connect the **** wire to earth..."

(I've just checked the TR Register forum and they state the O/D solenoid is not supposed to be polarity sensitive so connect either way.)

 

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