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Oh no ... it'd my diff!


Jeffds1360
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No Pete... stop deep thinking! :)

Handbrake is excellent (rear brakes sorted for MoT a few month back), loads of meat on pads and straight discs. I have heard this sort of sound before but for the life of me I cannot recollect the cause!! 

I'll double check the bearings then move on to ujs. Car runs great. Loads of low down torque...near impossible to stall. I like it! Just got to get wife to appreciate toppless driving :(

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Yea, I'll back it up on ramps.

Woopie I now have an operating water temp. gauge as well as interior lights!! How come that sensor was 3/8 whitworth??? Neither my AF or metric were tight enough so I found my old tool kit.

It's like the tunnel bolts....they seem to be 2BA. ???. Jobs done. Time out.:)

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only for a test , not a for ever fix 

and all  modern tyres do need a few more lbs than the handbooks of the day  maybe +6    +10 makes your teeth chatter  ha 

many online tyre sites give economy and noise ratings   which can be quite varied across all the offerings 

Pete

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Best thing ye can doo is re fill wid oil, bets on the v v little init.

drumming noise can come frae a dry,ish set up

hoo some of em work an last is beyond me, but then they un re buildable when I get em in

 

re the play on planets,  t,me  its a problem, as it causes shock loadings on tek up,  an on off throttle at high speeds an loadings

causes clonk,n at lower speeds in top on over run / accel,  at  v  low throttle  / feathered set,ns.

 

main cause I think of broken teeth an split carriers.

 

M

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Cheers M, I'm happy my diff is just suffering 'normal' wear and tear and guess the guy wanted a 'large' job than just my UJs. I'll try elsewhere.... or even DIY :) (love the accent, I'm 1/4 scottish,  Lakie, granny via mcdonalds from Glengarry I think. :)

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Well I bit the bullet and went for it today. 3 hours later...... ring spanner too thick sockets even thicker,  no one said the uj bolts were a right barstew to get out! So .... all off, into vice and 1st circlip out, 2nd circlip ....ping.. circlip pliers broke!!! Sunday afternoon...no hope. Having a break. Trying my pointy nosed pliers later

20200802_114351.jpg

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yes the right tools of the right quality and some practice do make this job quite a bit easier! Youll get there and learn how in the process only to forget the next time its necessary😁

 I take it the trunnion bushes and the axle bearings all feel perfect now you can really check them?

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Yes I think so Johny. Nothing seems to have play. I got the circlips out but my vice is way to small and I'm a bit stuck so watching the GP on TV for a couple of hours.and then attack the old ujs :)

Anything else I need to check under there? There's a round hole into boot and my spare wheel well has rust holes!  What size rubber grommets are in the underbody? Looks about an inch?

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you might get away with a beefy g-clamp depending how badly rusted the caps are...

While youve got the halfshaft off you could check if the trunnion bolt is free. These quite often rust into the inner metal sleeve so that the bolt cant be removed and then when you need to change the plastic bushes the job becomes much more difficult! The solution other than fit stainless components is to undo the bolt from time to time and tap it from side to side and regrease it with coppaslip or similar.

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Quote

Best guide to doing UJ's (written by Bill, who knows more about heralds than anybody else. Maybe John Kipping or Dave Pearson can compete)

Variation on a theme.  JK method was on the earlier post:   on 26th July

 on 26th July

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1 hour ago, clive said:

Best guide to doing UJ's (written by Bill, who knows more about heralds than anybody else. Maybe John Kipping or Dave Pearson can compete)

http://www.waghornswood.net.nz/Manuals_01_18/Vehicles/Triumph/Spitfire/Drawings/triumphclub.co.nz_uj_replacement.pdf

Two interesting points to that:

Firstly putting the UJs in the fridge to solidify the grease... never tried that.

Secondly not using any additional grease; I do on greasable UJs; with the grease nipple removed fill the caps with grease, and as you tighten each one to the correct position the grease fills the entire inside before squeezing out of the grease nipple aperture. Saves faffing with a grease nipple especially when you can't see how much grease is going in.

I have also never ever got the hammer method to work! Most of mine, by the time I've come to replace them, have been horrendously rusty UJs from basket cases so need a lot of effort to remove.

 

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Well I'm in my garage now, with very greasy hands and am 95% completed the uj replacement...... but.... will the last cap go down past circlip slot.... no!

No......., I've not dropped a needle Bush in!  I see top of slot but am reluctant to force it any more.....hmmmmm....release grease nipple...good idea Colin.. catch you later :)

 

Nope... given up ... need a break.. like 14 hour break. Been on and off for 10 hours now.

Thanks for input all.

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When I did mine I put them in the freezer. I had exactly the same problem that you are describing and was sure that all the needles were in their correct places.. I was wrong. A single needle was lying across the bottom hidden in a smear of grease. I was convinced that it couldn't happen with chilling everything... but it did!!!

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53 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Two interesting points to that:

Firstly putting the UJs in the fridge to solidify the grease... never tried that.

Secondly not using any additional grease; I do on greasable UJs; with the grease nipple removed fill the caps with grease, and as you tighten each one to the correct position the grease fills the entire inside before squeezing out of the grease nipple aperture. Saves faffing with a grease nipple especially when you can't see how much grease is going in.

I have also never ever got the hammer method to work! Most of mine, by the time I've come to replace them, have been horrendously rusty UJs from basket cases so need a lot of effort to remove.

 

I don't trust the grease nipples. Have seen more than one where at least one cup has obviously not had grease reach it. So always ensure there is plenty of grease in the cups, it oozes out nicely.

And I have found Bills method to always work, but I guess some can get so seized it could be an issue. FWIW a friend has tackled far more UJ's than I ever will. Anything vaguely difficult he gets the grinder out, chops the spider near the cups, you can then pull the spider remains out the cups easily, and drift the cups out one at a time. 

And yes, if a cup does not go all the way in. don't force it. I learnt the hard way when the cup broke. 

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Well you were right.......... no comment :)  :(

2 needles dropped, but not the end I was working on!! Typical. 

I am now an expert in hammer and socket uj replacement.

Just waiting to borrow some cir clip pliers and then back together for a lunchtime run out.... unless the government introduces another lock-down???

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you need Dylan to help out  now you have the Tee shirt 

i used ground up pliers for years but a professional set of circlip pliers have worked wonders over the years , i just use my vice and spacers and big socket to push the cups in and out 

take your time , dont get them pitched , they can lock in and ridge the yoke bore , more headaches , some just fall apart and you wonder why some struggle 

these things   take a lot of torque and in a area of nasties  ,  keep at it all will come ok its not the best fun job when it becomes hard work 

dont drop the shaft on your foot 

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Well, it's all back together but I have no brakes.

Put clingfilm over master and I only got about a hundred cc in my catch can from the rear wheel disconnection.

Took master cap off and it is empty!!! I wanted to change the fluid anyway so filled it with new dot 4. and put my one way on the open nipple but SFA. no pedal feel at all. pump pump pump still nothing

Tried my vacuum sucker but still nothing came through. Bugrere it, I'm having a break from brakes now.. 

If the master cylinder empties itself does it need bleeding somehow?

How the hell did the leaf spring get that low??? Does it droop overnight :) needs bushes all over now!

Catch you all later.

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53 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said:

If the master cylinder empties itself does it need bleeding somehow?

If it empties, you've got a leak somewhere! The pipes don't really hold that much fluid; refill, bleed all four and then watch for evidence of leaks or drips at any of the junctions.

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4 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

If it empties, you've got a leak somewhere! The pipes don't really hold that much fluid; refill, bleed all four and then watch for evidence of leaks or drips at any of the junctions.

Maybe the master cylinder is empty because Jeff didn't obstruct the brake pipe when he had dismantle the rear axle.

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