MJH2454 Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 How much movement should I feel when 'waggling' the wheel to assess the correct level of float? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 you can help us if you add what car you have ....but H V S & GT6 on a jack at the wheel tyre rim 0.002 " gives approx 2 mm rock the end float spec is 0.002 to 0.008" at 0.008" there is a LOT of rock and can push disc pads back . its easy knock out/prise the hub cap , remove split pin, tighten castle nut with LIGHT finger effort on a spanner back the nut 1 to 2 flats insert new pin and refit hub cap done Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJH2454 Posted August 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 Sorry MK IV Spitfire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 We've had this befote , recently, but removingbthe hubcaps is best done bybusing a self tapping screw through the airhole on the tip. Troublevis you need bigger and bigger screws every time you do it. So best is to weld a nut over the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 28 minutes ago, JohnD said: We've had this befote , recently, but removingbthe hubcaps is best done bybusing a self tapping screw through the airhole on the tip. Troublevis you need bigger and bigger screws every time you do it. So best is to weld a nut over the hole. In 35 years of maintaining cars, I have never used a screw/bolt to remove the greasecap. I have always tapped it off using a screwdriver, often aided by previous owners dents! But never defeated. But I guess a welded nut would be straightforward for future use, but I really don't know anybody who uses it though. Nor seen a welded nut adaptation. Plenty of dented greasecaps though. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 As advised before easier solution drill hole out larger as reqd and install a rivnut in reverse ie threaded portion on outside of grease cap, then just screw bolt down and cap comes off . 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 RIVNUT! Brilliant, Pete! If you have the rivnut tool, but that apples to welding too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 50 minutes ago, JohnD said: RIVNUT! Brilliant, Pete! If you have the rivnut tool, but that apples to welding too! But as you well know JohnD you do not need a rivnut tool to fit a rivnut, but it does help especially inside a grease cap. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 What? Just tighten a bolt up until it grips? OK, but a bit like using a hammer as screwdriver! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 I think that Aidrian is advocating the bolt, washer and extra nut method for the rivnuts, especially for the one off jobs https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qhzVDvnN_yM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 i did photos of this on the old forum but ive lost them with various PC changes gone into the clouds Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinrpayne Posted August 10, 2020 Report Share Posted August 10, 2020 Pete. I too have a similar problem. With the car on stands the front wheels have a definite loud “knock” when rocked but a single additional hole on the castilated nut takes it all out and I’m concerned that it’s too tight i presume it’s better to have lose wheels and risk an MOT failure ? kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Kevin, I think you could try your bearings one 'hole' more but check the temperature of the hub after a run. I certainly prefer to run mine with minimal play and not suffered any bearing overheating.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 What about a shim behind the nut? Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 I am probably imagining this, but isn't the stub axle drilled twice for the split pin, at 90 degrees to each other. So you can adjust the nut by half a flat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinrpayne Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Ooh. That could be interesting. I’ll take a look at lunchtime. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 18 minutes ago, clive said: I am probably imagining this, but isn't the stub axle drilled twice for the split pin, at 90 degrees to each other. So you can adjust the nut by half a flat? That’s correct , mine has 90 degree flats Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 yes two holes If an MOT man fail it for float ( correct float) then he is very wrong a modern with twin race cassette bearing has no float but floating hubs used by just about every make of the day has some float the high temperatures changes from braking will soon weld the outer race to the stub axle pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Unfortunately it is becoming the norm at some of the WOF (MOT) chains here in NZ for them to fail taper bearing front hubs for having a small amount of play. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 unfortunate , technology has overtaken history as the bearings are supposed to turn on the stub axle slowly to spread the impact wear so the inner track is never in the same place if you pre load them it will tend to spin at road wheel speed and the ££££ and $$$ fly out the window when it picks up and seizes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinrpayne Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Well there you go. I have cross drilled holes so have found a happy medium. Bit of a donk but not a DONK! I’ll try running and monitor the temperature thanks kevvin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 i wonder as there is a D washer to stop rotation action on the nut that a decent nyloc would work to replace the loose castle nut then its infinitly adjustable no split pins thats what a modern would use Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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