Removing exhaust manifold stud

[daverclasper]

Hi.  I have a sheared stud, that has about 10mm left proud from the head. Just bought a stud extractor to assist with removal.

Thought I would use some heat (map gas) around the stud, to assist and lesson the chance of shearing again.  I assume this is ok with cast iron?.

As well, any other useful tips regarding this, much appreciated, please

Thanks, Dave 

Edited September 1, 2020 by daverclasper

[yorkshire_spam]

Never had much luck with stud extractors - good luck! I tend to stick an oversize nut over the "stump" and them mig-weld them together and cross my fingers the nut will unscrew it.

 

[johny]

Dont think youll get much temperature into the head so I would do a few heat/cool cycles on the stud itself to try and get it to break free...

[NonMember]

I've always found YS's MIG welder method to be the best way of applying some heat/cool cycles, and the nut is a lot more useful for gripping than the stud extractor, especially if you've only got 10mm of stud left.

[johny]

Definitely best but unfortunately not all have access to MIG welders☹️

[Andy Moss]

Use gas welding then!  I have found welding a nut on is best too. Even better if you can spot blast round the stud before. 

[KevinR]

What type of stud extractor - I fine that these IRWIN ones are usually the best for tricky broken studs.

https://www.toolstation.com/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set/p81815

There is also a set of additional sizes

https://www.toolstation.com/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set/p63045

and heating with a MAPP gas torch would also help, but not quite as good using an induction heater or an acetylene torch or MIGing on a nut.

 

[daverclasper]

1 hour ago, KevinR said:

What type of stud extractor

Hi, and thanks.

It's a Laser brand, that Pete recommended (I think it still gripped, with a four foot breaker bar, to remove a head? stud, of Doug's).

I recently bought a decent MIG. I could practice the settings on same size nut and bolt, though was wondering would the head create a lot of heat sink in the actual situation?.

Cheers

 

[JohnD]

A red hot blob of metal on the end of the broken stud, with a red hot nut around it, and you could have a heat sink the size of the ocean and the stud wil loosen.

[daverclasper]

Cheers John. You have put that very well.

[Anglefire]

I have a set of Irwin extractors and they are excellent. - 10mm might be enough length to grip - but otherwise as suggested - weld a nut on.

[daverclasper]

Thanks. just a few questions please (Vitesse Mk1 2 Litre).

The none sheared stud (no1, next to water pump, came out with nut attached).  I noticed some liquid in the thread bore that seems like coolent. The bore goes into a head (coolent?) cavity.   Is this usual, and if so would I need some gasket sealant etc around the stud threads?.

Also difficult to use my welder at the moment, though will do at some point I if have to (no garage, and car not close to mains leccy at the mo).

So, I can mark the stud the end and at the head to see if it's moving (and also maybe twisting and therefore breaking, as I assume this stud will be very weak through all that exhaust heat?).

I can wait and use mig, when a parking spot becomes clear near to me.

Really want to avoid shearing stud further at this point

Any advice please.

Dave 

  

[Pete Lewis]

i have never had a stud shear with the chuck type extractor   if its going to shear it will with a welded nut or a decent extractor 

yes some sealant on the stud which has access to the water jacket  is normal 

pete

[daverclasper]

Thanks Pete

The coolant thing was a "Oh my god", moment, until I fought to drag my non de-fault optimistic head on.

I just wondered if the heat from the MIG loosened it more than my MAPP torch and I could do a back and forth movement with a spanner, while undoing to relieve the undoing torque a bit (freed a frozen nut on the number plate light cluster a while back and was happily undoing it, though stiff and the stud broke).

Probably over thinking it, but have hindsight from previous misdemeanors.

Cheers, Dave     

Edited September 3, 2020 by daverclasper

[Pete Lewis]

heat can always help but there is also a need to more  ATTACK    less WORRY         Ha !                  its just a car      you cant kill it 

a good devised have a go works wonders 

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

47 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

        Ha !                  its just a car      you cant kill it 

Want to bet?? You may not kill it but the recovery process may be protracted and expensive...

[Pete Lewis]

thats the fun or the challenge   we all face varying levels of  hope hate and enthusiasm with something 50 years old 

excluding the wife or girl friend  Ha !

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

excluding the wife or girl friend  Ha !

Pete

I know, I've tried putting her in a corner of the garage under a cover but she keeps coming back into the house again.

[daverclasper]

That stud removal went fine (that extractor is a good bit off kit I reckon, thanks for the tip on that Pete) your encouragement helped me to stop dithering Pete. Ta

I managed to melt the oil pressure gauge tube a bit (my cut up tin can heat shield must have brushed it). Should it be ok to repair with a bit of metal tube of the correct diameter outer diameter (4mm) spliced in?. I think modelers shops sell it, or any ideas of anything suitable that may be hanging around?.

Current exhaust manifold gasket face pretty poor. A lot of corrosion along the top part of manifold, that's seeped down (how does that happen). Do have a spare that seems good, so will use that.

Cheers for all your help.

Dave

 

[Pete Lewis]

well there's fun, then   reality and then disaster  in no particular order 

pleased its got you going  ha !

pete

 

[Graham C]

7 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I know, I've tried putting her in a corner of the garage under a cover but she keeps coming back into the house again.

Yes I have the same problem.

Graham

[daverclasper]

I took the manifolds off as one. When I separated them I think they were an even, snug, not too tight, fit.

The used exhaust replacement, was quite tight and needed tapping quite hard with a mallet to fit between inlet manifold (on the bench), though there are two gaps of around 8 thou between the inner edges of the outer two inlet manifold ports and the outer edges of the two inner exhaust manifold ports (hope this makes sense)..

Is this ok, or should I trim a few thou of the edges of exhaust manifold, where they are tight to the inlet manifold? (to allow for heat, metal expansion).

Thanks for any help.

Dave  

Edited September 7, 2020 by daverclasper

[Pete Lewis]

probably tight as the casting has shrunk , a bit of clearance is a good plan 

Pete

[NonMember]

Yes, definitely trim a bit off. I had the same problem on mine - the pathetic clamp things won't work if the manifolds are an interference fit with each other.

[daverclasper]

Thanks for that.  Will do

Dave