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VixenPPP
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Hi all,

After some effort I now have the OD solenoid working. The car is secure on axle stands. Can I test the operation of the O/D  gearbox in situ ? I have changed the oil, but, need to be sure it's at the correct level. Is there a recommended way ?Finally what would you recommend to protect the wires. I've seen various stuff advertised.

.....Neil

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If the car is suspended securely enough that you can safety spin up the wheels to a decent speed, then you can test the overdrive by starting the engine, putting it in 3rd and getting to about 30mph. Flick the overdrive in and observe the speedo and rev counter move in opposite directions.

Oil is just filled to the level of the filler, as Pete said.

For protecting the wires just wrap them in tape or heatshrink, then clip them so they can't get caught on anything. If you've got the switch on the gearknob then see the discussion elsewhere for the best way to protect that bit - basically use thinner wire with a bit of a loop at the bottom and cable ties to stop it rubbing.

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Personally I'd drop it back down on the ground to test.  Sure, it's a pain and 5min work taking it off the stands/putting it back up if issues persist - but a lot easier than repairing the front of the car and garage door/rear wall...

You also need to have the stands under the bottom of the vertical link, otherwise the drive shafts will normally be running in contact with the top of the chassis rails.

Could be worth temp. wiring a buzzer or bulb in to the o/d electrical circuit.  Yes, annoying to have it buzzing/shining away the whole time you're in o/d but will tell you you have an electrical, rather than oil issue if it doesn't.

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Your right mjit, the driveshafts were resting on the rails. She has to come off the stands and out of the garage. Regarding the idiot light, I know I have to tap in to the sol. wire, but what do I need ? , connectors, wire , bulb and holder ? 

Getting there.....Neil

 

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48 minutes ago, VixenPPP said:

Regarding the idiot light, I know I have to tap in to the sol. wire, but what do I need ? , connectors, wire , bulb and holder ?

 

1) What do you need?
I'd more say "What do you have kicking around the garage/boot of the car?".  To keep it cheap and if you don't have anything kicking about you could pop one of the reversing light bulbs+holder and hack that in to the circuit.  Other than that a crimp on male+female bullet connectors, a bit of wire and whatever you need for the bulb/buzzer (a pair of crimp on female spade connectors if using the reversing bulb).

2) How do I?
I'd expect the column switch to be wired using bullet connectors, so you need to:
a) Crimp a male bullet to the end of one piece of wire and a female to the one end of the other piece of wire.
b) Connect the other ends of those wires to your buzzer/bulb.  If using the reversing bulb one goes to the standard connection post and, as the bulb (should) earth through the metal-bit-that-clips-it-in-to-the-rear-lamp-body connect the other wire to that (butchering the spade connector as necessary).
c) Split one of the O/D switch bullet connectors and reconnect via your new test wire.
d) Switch on the ignition, put the car in 3rd and flick the O/D switch.  The circuit SHOULD open so the light come on.
e) Assuming that's good, it's road test time.

unplug the switched one (which you can identify via a process of elemination if you don't have a multimeter - will come to that) and

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as an alternative if the tunnel is out add a double bullet sleeve to the solenoid pig tail , run wire to any bulb, and on to an earth 

its a D type you should hear the relay clickmin and be able to feel the solenoid operate 

one thing to check is take the 3 screws from the rh side cover operate the sol and check the hole in the lever lines up with the hole in the case , a 3/16 " drill makes simple gauge

do not adjust the  capnut in the case only ever adjust the sol pushrod nut .

Pete

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Hi all,

We have ' idiot ' light working. Solenoid arm correctly adjusted when energised with holes aligned using 3/8 drill . Oil is topped up with GL4 oil. Car is secured on axle stands ( I know this is not recommended, but, I don't want to risk taking it out at this point ). I've taken it up to 4000 revs in 3rd and 4th gears and repeatedly flicked the switch to no effect. There are no strange noises. I'll check and clean the operating valve. What's best to clean it with ? The car has not been on the road for some 5 years so there must be a strong possibility that something is stuck in the O/D box. It's suggested this may free off in time. Not sure what to do now. One option is to have it inspected to M.O.T. standard . At least then I could take it somewhere to have it looked at if necessary.

Thanks for your advice gents. Couldn't have got this far without it.

......Neil

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Get it MOTd. You don't need the overdrive working for that and being able to drive it will help a lot with your investigations.

When you flick the switch, does the light come on? Is the light directly across the solenoid?

(There was a thing that came out of the post-mortem of the three mile island reactor melt-down. The operators had noticed that some of the valves could get sticky so they asked the owners to get valve position indicators installed. The owners got some contractors to do so at minimum cost. The operators got their check lights. When the incident happened, the operator had confirmed that the check light was on... but had never been told that what the contractors had actually installed was a "the switch is turned on" indicator and NOT the requested "the valve is open" indicator. That was a major factor in the meltdown.)

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Neil, one last test is to loosen the operating arm, and try engaging the OD manually.

first with engine off push lever and see if you can feel a slight change in resistance, moves, stops, and can then be pushed slightly further. 

Next have it running at 1000 in 4th, and very gently push the actuating lever, you may need to go well past the point at which is correct adjustment.

you can get wear in the shaft and internal pins, and correct adjust just does not allow for enough slack in system

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i have had D type solenoids   with a seized armature so whilst its powered it does not  move enough 

and remove the cap nut  (can be tight ) on the top and carefully remove the ball /spring and lift the needle out  it has small hole down its tube make sure its clear 

this is what the sol lever lifts off its seat to let the pump pressure work  , the small orifice in the needle  often gets blocked 

Pete

 

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