llessur Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 I swapped out the rubber steering coupling in my 2500 today as the last one had split quite badly but on reassembly it definitely looks like it's under quite a lot of torsional strain. I've loosened the top and bottom column clamps and also the steering rack clamps to see if a subtle shift in alignment might relieve things but nothing changed. As the old one had already split I can't really compare the before/after situation but does this look right? It seems like a recipe for early failure of the new coupling to me but maybe that's just how they are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 well there is some angular changes but that does look a bit excessive buy no obvious as to why strangely mine when converted to P stg has the fabric disc from CW which i dont think is right for Pstg. youve got me thinking Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Popped out to look at mine and it doesn't look as loaded as that - but very hard to see with a full engine bay. It could just be the angle you're looking at it from, or rather the only one I can look at mine from, which is basically just between carbs and inner wheel arch. From there it seems to be a small twist in the rubber coupling, with a much bigger angle change down at the lower/metal UJ. I guess the other thing is where do you have the steering wheel set, and does raising/lowering it change the position of the shaft at the rubber coupling (don't know if it does - never had to look at that end of things)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 I would say that looks correct especially in the second picture when you look at the relative angles of the fixing bolts. This will twist the rubber coupling and tend to make it seem the assembly is under a compressive load... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 My Mk2 PI had a UJ there rather than a rubber coupling. I don't think it was born with it but it's a mod from another version (Mk1). I prefer the UJ because I have zero trust in modern repro rubber components...... Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted September 12, 2020 Report Share Posted September 12, 2020 Hi Folks, I don;t know if the splined clamp on the right of the rubber UJ in the top pic is the same/similar to the ones used on the TR's but they have an issue from new. The gap that the clamp bolt tries to squish down has excess metal in it and stops or seriously reduces the clamping action. There are a number of ways to overcome this. My way is to machine a 3mm slot to remove the offending metal. The clamping action improves beyond measure. The shiny areas in the pic shows where the excess metal was. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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