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Modern paints and varnishes... GRRRR!


Colin Lindsay
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On Saturday past (5/9) I sanded and revarnished a set of mahogany door frames with Sadolin Extra Durable Woodstain, and touched up a few internal doors and frames which had become marked or damaged due to workmen carrying things about.

Six days later it's still wet. I've no idea what I've done wrong this time, I even put the wood into the greenhouse, which is extremely warm, in an attempt to dry it off but it's still too sticky to lift or touch. It's not runny, but tacky; the colour doesn't come off on your fingertips if you touch it, but the wood sticks to your fingers like sticky tape. The small marks on the interior doors are the same - they look dry but if you touch them it's still tacky. 

Anyone any idea of what to do?

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We have some doors painted 9 months ago at work, still tacky to the touch! My spitfire on the other hand sprayed in cellulose has gone hard in the hot sun this year and then cracked!!!!😟. Going to have to rub down and respray. Going to do it in 2k next time.

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Dulux experimented with a paint that needed uv light to go hard. It was good stuff if you could get it on fast enough as on a very sunny day the brush would stick solid to wood you were painting..... Needless to say it never reached the open market. I think BW has your answer Colin  :( 

Tony. 

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Sadly, I had to take it back to bare wood. I think that because it hadn't set properly, it came off with paraffin. Try a small area on what you have done on your interior door. If you have any paint left, mix it thoroughly and try some on a piece of scrap. I know to my cost, that Dulux Weatherseal(shield ??) takes 16 hours to dry...never again when this can is finished.

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I am just trying to sand off the grubby sadolin goo from the garage door its cedar and has been painted with brown toffee

what a pig about to try the angle grinder and stripping brush as coarse  self clogging  sand paper and my super vibrating mouse sander has rendered some nice timber 

but the hands and arms are  vibro'd to death  and theres the whole main panel planks  still to do

time for a cuppa and re think ...was this a good idea 

Pete

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12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

I am just trying to sand off the grubby sadolin goo from the garage door its cedar and has been painted with brown toffee

what a pig about to try the angle grinder and stripping brush as coarse  self clogging  sand paper and my super vibrating mouse sander has rendered some nice timber 

but the hands and arms are  vibro'd to death  and theres the whole main panel planks  still to do

time for a cuppa and re think ...was this a good idea 

Pete

Heat gun and scraper , then sand the little thats left to get rid of the bits and scorch marks.

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16 minutes ago, JohnD said:

for 'softer' coverings, lke underseal, the tool is the CrudThug!

Crud Thug® Removal Air Tool | PT280THUGA | Snap-on Store

Notcheap,but will save you a lot of time!

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Remove-All-Tool/Crud-Thug-Removal-Air-Tool/PT280THUGA

Only £697.02 !!!!!

It must save an awful lot of time.  
Replacement brushes are over £100 each !!!

 

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Hope that they don't fly off like ninja darts, like the Aldi wire brushes for angle grinders do. Felt like I had been attacked by a porcupine the last time I used it. Great for de-rusting the front gate though.

Why so expensive (yes its Snap On), its only a glorified angle grinder and you still only get a 1 year guarantee, Lidl gives three years on their tools.

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12 hours ago, Badwolf said:

Hope that they don't fly off like ninja darts, like the Aldi wire brushes for angle grinders do. Felt like I had been attacked by a porcupine the last time I used it. Great for de-rusting the front gate though.

Why so expensive (yes its Snap On), its only a glorified angle grinder and you still only get a 1 year guarantee, Lidl gives three years on their tools.

I can assure you that even Norton (possibly the best abrasives manufacturer?) brushes loose wires, but not as many. I have realised you need a full face shield, plus safety specs, leather gloves, a leather jacket and as I don't have any leather trousers, as protective a material as you can find. However, they do remove most stuff with ease. Only stuff they are not good on is hard rust scale, seems to just polish that. Guess a needle scaler is the thing for that.

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14 hours ago, Badwolf said:

Hope that they don't fly off like ninja darts, like the Aldi wire brushes for angle grinders do. Felt like I had been attacked by a porcupine the last time I used it.

The small wire brushes for Dremels are lethal. I was wearing goggles earlier in the week, but late in the evening felt something very sharp in my cheek, and had to remove a wire bristle with tweezers. I think I'll buy a few of those Covid face shields, they should be good for the low velocity of the Dremel but better than goggles alone.

I was skimming mahogany doors this week in order to raise them over new tiles, using a rust removal wheel on the angle grinder; very fast, but you need to be careful and not remove too much, or dig a hole.

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the garage door has or is in process of sucumbed to heat gun and scraper to remove the sadolin crap 

finish off with the mouse or orbital and nice new cedar is appearing 

plan on using boiled linseed oil for a preservative and colour enhancer .... dinosaur stuff from the olde days 

not going to use any toffee paint  any more  it just masks the grain ....brown paint is definitly OUT

might test the high spec preservative stain   i use  on the hard wood conservatory , its more see through

Pete

 

 

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16 hours ago, KevinR said:

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Remove-All-Tool/Crud-Thug-Removal-Air-Tool/PT280THUGA

Only £697.02 !!!!!

It must save an awful lot of time.  
Replacement brushes are over £100 each !!!

 

OK, Eastwood's version: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pneumatic-rotary-removal-tool.html

$280, with replacement wheels, $22.  (220 and 17 pounds sterling)   No idea on delivery or import tax, but Frost, who sell Eastwood products in the UK have it at £470!!

I've seen these in use, they really do remove sticky underseal like nothing else can!

John

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

the garage door has or is in process of sucumbed to heat gun and scraper to remove the sadolin crap 

finish off with the mouse or orbital and nice new cedar is appearing 

plan on using boiled linseed oil for a preservative and colour enhancer .... dinosaur stuff from the olde days 

not going to use any toffee paint  any more  it just masks the grain ....brown paint is definitly OUT

might test the high spec preservative stain   i use  on the hard wood conservatory , its more see through

Pete

 

 

Just fit a metal one Pete :) You only have to wash them when the wife nag's.

Tony.

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On 11/09/2020 at 15:56, Colin Lindsay said:

On Saturday past (5/9) I sanded and revarnished a set of mahogany door frames with Sadolin Extra Durable Woodstain, and touched up a few internal doors and frames which had become marked or damaged due to workmen carrying things about.

Six days later it's still wet. I've no idea what I've done wrong this time, I even put the wood into the greenhouse, which is extremely warm, in an attempt to dry it off but it's still too sticky to lift or touch. It's not runny, but tacky; the colour doesn't come off on your fingertips if you touch it, but the wood sticks to your fingers like sticky tape. The small marks on the interior doors are the same - they look dry but if you touch them it's still tacky. 

Anyone any idea of what to do?

A friend  painted all the woodwork in two rooms.

Not Sadolin but this might still apply:

He was alarmed to find after several days it was still tacky.

Faced with a dreary task of removing it, he first rang the advice department of the manufacturer -Crown I think in Darwen, Lancs.

They established from him two things -the paint had been in his garage for some years and that perhaps he hadn’t spent a long time stirring it.

Their advice was don’t panic, don’t strip it and it will dry - but it will take 2 weeks - which it did almost to the day.

 

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Talking of stirring paint, when I came to primer the Spitfire bonnet, took the lid off the can, stirring stick to the bottom, stir...the whole can rotated. It was so.....thick, it took about ten minutes to mix, using both hands on the stick and gripping the can between my knees. Then later in the week, the same happened with the fine filler. Lid off, liquid on the surface (saw on yoo-toob that it needed to be mixed in) stick in..off we go again. Mixed up really nicely though and set beautifully.

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For exterior and interior bare wood I can thoroughly recommend International Woodskin.  Yes it's a marine thing and therefore slightly more expensive but a couple of coats, follow the instructions, and you may need a top-up every four years or so.  Has worked well on my wooden mast and spars and if it gets a scratch just a bit of gentle rubbing and touch-in; you will not see the join.

Dick 

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5 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:

They established from him two things -the paint had been in his garage for some years and that perhaps he hadn’t spent a long time stirring it.

Their advice was don’t panic, don’t strip it and it will dry - but it will take 2 weeks - which it did almost to the day.

The tin is about six months old, and has been opened before but less than 1/2 inch used. I've fitted the frames, just have to give them a wide berth when walking past, but if they'll dry eventually then I'm happy. I've a few other bits to touch in where I sanded off overpainting, I'll do that tomorrow and the stirring will probably take longer than the application. Things used to be easier...

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