Pbruce9393 Posted September 18, 2020 Report Posted September 18, 2020 I have recently bought a GT6 Mk3 which has almost immediately developed a problem with gear selection & a lack of springiness for reverse. There are a few threads on here about the spring cap wearing away and/or the circlip coming loose, which describe the problem & solution exactly. I’ll be having a look at it this weekend, and hoping that it is an easy fix, but there is some debate about some of the kits actually being part of the problem in the first place. Any recommendation abou which is the best kit to buy . Thanks Peter
NonMember Posted September 18, 2020 Report Posted September 18, 2020 Buy from a reputable supplier such as Canley or Paddocks (there are others, too) but inspect the known problem parts and determine whether you need to fettle them or retain the original.
Badwolf Posted September 18, 2020 Report Posted September 18, 2020 Make sure that you carefully re-bush/washer the bottom of the stick. Mine was put together badly and the hole is now enlongated so much that it runs the risk of the bottom section breaking off entirely. I intend to get it welded up, reshaped and re-drilled over the winter. I just hope that it lasts that long.
Pete Lewis Posted September 18, 2020 Report Posted September 18, 2020 i would suggest the same the reverse spring circlip is the hardest bit to remove , must be a square section clip or it will jump off its groove the tin sperical washers on many kits have a razor sharp cropped edges that must be binned or filed smooth if you sperical is in bgood shape leve alone some repro are far to soft and soon split or jam up some parts in the kit wont be used pete
1969Mk3Spitfire Posted September 18, 2020 Report Posted September 18, 2020 I did this job recently on my Spitfire. I bought a kit from Canley. I was a bit disappointed that there was no instructions and I posted on here to be told “it is very straightforward and will become fairly obvious as you start the tear down”. Sure enough, it was. Having done it, the difference to the gear change is quite amazing. Also as I was told, there will be a few parts in the kit that you’ll consider unnecessary to change.
Pete Lewis Posted September 18, 2020 Report Posted September 18, 2020 the kit covers some evolution , there are odd variances to the byushes on some early , the 0 rings seal the short front shaft and are best left alone , they sit in a machined groove in the housing when you refit the shaft you chop the new seal and its worse than before from memory you may get 2 red and 2 white plastic washers the white go on the gear stick the red on the intermeadiate swivel as does the small rubber bush ( not on all) the top hat bushes fit the gear lever pivot Pete
Pbruce9393 Posted September 18, 2020 Author Report Posted September 18, 2020 Thanks everyone for your responses. I’ll get a kit ordered & give it a go. Peter
Colin Lindsay Posted September 19, 2020 Report Posted September 19, 2020 Lay the kit out beside where you're intending to work on the gearlever / remote assembly, and match like for like as you remove each part, and do one section at a time. It's very simple, but some, like the plastic bushes, are very similar in size but have slight differences that make sense once you work out where they go. Photographs are a great help.
Dave1360 Posted September 19, 2020 Report Posted September 19, 2020 Another point that may be useful - don't assume that what comes out will be identical to what you're putting back in. The kits seem to have changed a bit over the years, hopefully for the better. The middle joint that I recently removed consisted of an outer metal bush, a rubber tube and an inner metal tube, but what went back in were a couple of nylon top hats and an inner metal tube. Similarly, the thin plastic domed washer has now been replaced by a metal one in Canley's latest kits, which presumably stops the spring pushing up through it. I've now bought three kits (for different cars!), all from Canley's and they've all been a vast improvement on what was there before. Grease anything that moves and tighten the nylocs until just before the joints show any sign of stiffness.
Badwolf Posted September 19, 2020 Report Posted September 19, 2020 More important, don't assume that what you take out was the correct part for the job, like I did!! I wondered why I had so many bits in the iit until I looked at a parts diagram to match everything up. It was something if a shock to find that the professional mechanic who put it together used a handy (wrong size) bolt and two washers to hold to gear stick and linkage together.
Pbruce9393 Posted September 21, 2020 Author Report Posted September 21, 2020 Got it all out today. This is all that was there.........only one (almost disintegrated) washer, and no bottom bush at all. Now awaiting the arrival of the kit. Peter
Pete Lewis Posted September 21, 2020 Report Posted September 21, 2020 thats an overdrive gear stick do check the wiring as it can heat age and break down to shorts and tingling shocks Pete
Badwolf Posted September 21, 2020 Report Posted September 21, 2020 13 hours ago, Pbruce9393 said: Got it all out today. This is all that was there.........only one (almost disintegrated) washer, and no bottom bush at all. Now awaiting the arrival of the kit. Peter That has a horribly familiar ring to it. Check the wear at the hole in the base of the stick.
Pbruce9393 Posted September 22, 2020 Author Report Posted September 22, 2020 That’s it all back together again & all gears back in action. As you guys predicted, the reverse circlip was the difficult bit, and I had bits left over. The red & white washers did not fit on the gearstick at all, but the hole at the base of the gearstick looked good. Thanks again for all your help & advice. Peter
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