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Beware of chrome plating


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I just had one of my Vitesse over riders chrome plated.

They did a lovely job, but when I got home, I noticed one of the captive nuts was missing from the cage.

As it has managed to stay there for over 50 years, I was a bit perplexed. I phone them and asked if they could look for it, and they found it.

When I collected it, a huge amount of metal seems to have been dissolved away in the stripping process, including the thread.

I will now have to make a new nut, and try and slip it into the cage, as the original will rotate when tightening.

I assume it was quite corroded and so the metal oxide has dissolved.

I wonder how such items could be protected?



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That's actually quite a good price, but I hope it turns out better than this one... the rear of it was still lovely, but this one, believe it or not, never went near the road... it just went like that on the car, which is still being restored...

DBD7BAA1-9492-4FE0-99F0-732309BAAF28_1_105_c.jpg.050fb247c90de8cb6acb99cc107dc584.jpg F3E40F38-002D-40EB-98D8-593DDD353361_1_105_c.jpg.c28f0734ea87df80bc97ec5ce9c7f936.jpg ACA146C7-E997-438D-9327-633DFDC4883A_1_105_c.jpg.bd35d36f1f643727296577410136ae0e.jpg

However I still need an oil filler cap rechromed, unless anyone knows where I can get one - it's a 2.5 inch cap for an SAH rocker cover?

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That is a good price and compares well with the cost of a repro one which in my experience are poorly chromed and end up looking just like Colins!

Of course like everything I suppose theres different ways of doing it with the best being copper, nickle then chrome.... 

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The black art of a good plating finish is in the polishing prior to plating. Literally black art, I've never seen a polisher who didn't look like he had been down a coal mine for a month! 

If the polishing mop lingers too long in an area it produces heat distortion or even holes. As in most things we do it's all in the preparation! 


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Thinking about it, it is not possible to fit studding and 2 nuts on a front over rider as the bracket has to sit flush with the chassis stanchion.

I made a 15mm square nut, drilled and tapped it 5/16 UNF.

I then gently prised open one side of the cage and will slip it in (so to speak ) and close it back up


New nut.jpg

Cage nut new.jpg


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