Martin White Posted October 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 Seems the problem is a bit more serious the cylinder nearer the rear of the car is pitted/corroded. And this is where the gasket blew. I suspect previous owner has left it with coolant from a previous gasket blow before putting new gasket on and selling to me :-). my question is where do I go from here rebore/ new liners/ new engine??? Any advice welcome and does anyone know a good engine specialist in the midlands? Despite the bad news I am actually quite enjoying getting my hands dirty although I think getting my hand in my wallet might not be quite so enjoyable, hopefully not too bad?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 so its had a life of burning coolant so would the pitting clean up ???? its not at its best but providing you dont get pinking or very lean burning the crown will last quite well i take it youre just driving not racing ??? do you want utopia or just fun driving no point going deep pocket syndrome if you only go for a picnic Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 Can you post some photos? There are some very experienced people on here who can look at a bit of pitting and tell you whether it needs a some Scothbrite or a new block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 appologise i read piston into this .... yes as Rob asked some photo's would help Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted October 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 Please see attached. Was speaking to an engine specialist who told me to gently wire brush away and he sees all the time. Was not sure what to make of that. Have not been racing will be using car as a weekend drive. All the other cylinders are fine. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 16 hours ago, Martin White said: Please see attached. Was speaking to an engine specialist who told me to gently wire brush away and he sees all the time. I wouldn't wire brush, try plastic scouring pads, metal pot scouring pads (not Brillo pads!) or very very fine tooth-brush-sized brass wire brushes - you don't want to make scratches so use plenty of lubrication until you're sure that it's only surface marking and not actual pitting or damage. What's the lip like on that lower cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 remove the studs and use very oily fine wet and dry on a hard block clean it till all the black residue has disappeared you cant damage the head face , , add oil to the bores and paper towel to collect any debris wind engine over a few times cleaning the bores as you turn Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Martin, to what do you refer? In your picture, there's mottling on the bore wall, or the marks on the block face? Either way, IMHO, unless you can feel the marks with your fingertip, you can ignore them. The 'fingertip test' will detect less than half a thou on an otherwise smooth surface, and that is no problem. Pete, Would you like to revise your last post? Yes, use fine W&D in oil to polish a face, if you need to, but the residues will contain carborudum (silicon carbide) dust. Carborundum has a Mohs Scale hardness of 9, it's the example material for that hardness, only diamond is harder! After using such a scouring material, the block should be washed, first with a degreaser, then with lots of hot soapy (detergenty) water. Lots and lots and lots! Rebuilding a engine requires almost surgical cleanliness! Otherwise some carborundum will be left in the engine. 1200 grade W&D paper has grit particles about 3micrometers wide, when the smallest that an oil filter can remove is ten times bigger. The grit will continue to circulate, accelerating wear. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted October 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 I think it is more than surface pitting. Have been chatting to a mechanic today and he asked me if the car had power before the gasket blow which it did. Seemed to run fine. Will dress the surface of the cylinder as suggested and put back together. Will compression test all four cylinders and see what I have got. Can I do this without put everything back together??? Does the engine have to be running? Never used a compression tester before. If still no good then will have to bite the bullet and get the engine out I guess. Thoughts ladies and gents? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted October 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Sorry guys getting out of sync with replies. Mottling on the bore wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Can you feel the mottling, Martin? If not leave it severely alone, unless you plan to fit new piston rngs, in which case hone the walls, with the right tool. And then as above WASH out the bores to remove carborundum dust. If you can feel the "mottling" then you have no hope of piston rings that seal, unless a hone will remove the mottling, and the uneven 'feel' to the bore wall. If not then a rebore is required. Sorry, but you asked and messing about with Wet & Dry will not cure the problem. Which was a blown head gasket, which this mottling has nothing to do with, except possibly as a result of the failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 mottling is not a problem John yes aware of the particles , just most have to use what ever they have ive never worn an engine out whatever agent ive used to scour scrape or abrade over the years bearing in mind the amount of casting junk left in our engines a bit of W & D is better than reassemble something covered in previous grott Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 john probably knows more about why but burning antifreeze makes all sorts of staining corrosion and devastation around the combustion zones Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 14 minutes ago, Martin White said: Sorry guys getting out of sync with replies. Mottling on the bore wall Hi Martin, you can do a compression test by simply bolting the head back on with the head gasket.. Nothing else is needed, it does not need to run it just needs to turn over on the starter. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted October 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Thanks for all your advice. Have just used a plastic scourer and amazingly now smooth as silk 👍👍👍 Shocked at how quickly corrosion appeared. Seemed really quite bad Looks like a lucky escape!! One relieved Spitfire owner! Fingers crossed no more blown gaskets thanks again guys you have all really helped 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Well done! But discolouration is of no consequence. I respect your vast experience, Pete. But I like to build a nice clean engine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted October 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 I do have one more question (sorry !) Any tips on how to tighten the two nuts on the manifold that are tucked right at the back. I really struggled to get them off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Can't be definitive, as I'm into six cylinders, but their manifolds have similar access problems. I can only reach one of the nuts with an open ended, and a conventional length spanner cannot be swung enough to engage the next flat. Although you can buy sets of "Stubby" spanners, my solution was to take a cheap spanner, shorten it by cutting off the least useful end (probably the ring) so that you have a better swing on it, and grind the open end thinner, if that is needed. Here's mine. I put a length of old central heating copper tube around it and wired it on, protecting the wires from my fingers with electric tape, so that it was more comfortable to apply maximum torque by hand. Obviously, I can't get a torque wrench to this nut. I can't rember why there's a tommy bar in the pic! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 hey John each to their own always good to have a scatter of ideas from everyone No bowing till i get a corenette and thats pretty unlikely Ha! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 would a flexi ..swivel socket and extention get on it ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: hey John each to their own always good to have a scatter of ideas from everyone No bowing till i get a corenette and thats pretty unlikely Ha! Pete Ohayō gozaimasu, Pete-san! (Never mess with a Dan Ten!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Dan Ten is normally in a ....Mess mask on mask off , just as well you didnt make duxford your rig would have been on permanent siberian choke one good thing about the forum is most help is based on varied experience from the many , not myths from the few keep smiling pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Can anyone else see a step in the recess on the top cylinder in the photo?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Id say thats a build up of carbon or sealant that should be carefully scraped out👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 yes theres debris or old fire ring in the 1 oclock to 2.30 zone need to find out just what it is metal or carbon debris certainly needs cleaning out or the new fire ring wont seat correctly , and if its been there from a previous failure it explains why this one had gone Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now