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Daily Spit 1500 body repairs & more..


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More stuff bought.. Primer !

Today been good weather, so time to get some filler on some welded repairs.

Wanted to do it the last weeks.. but been busy on a Porsche 911 !

(Stripping underneath etc)

 

Sadly the next 2 weekends not very good weather on weekends to 😕 .

 

 

 

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Looking good!

You're just slightly ahead of me; I've more underseal to remove then it's off to the sandblaster and I'm off to the Autosupplies to buy quantities of etch primer and weld-through primer. The warmer weather is coming in; it's becoming a pleasure to work with the garage doors open.

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8 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Looking good!

You're just slightly ahead of me; I've more underseal to remove then it's off to the sandblaster and I'm off to the Autosupplies to buy quantities of etch primer and weld-through primer. The warmer weather is coming in; it's becoming a pleasure to work with the garage doors open.

Here I dont have a garage with electrics.. 

So the plan is to spray the primer at my uncles very big yard (used to be a saw mill).

There Fox was welded and out in primer back in 2012.

But now the hardest part is.. Fox needs to stay on the road ! 😅

No pressure at all ... 

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Wanted to test the primer, as this will be the first time that I will spray it myself..

Back in 2012 my uncle did it for me.

 

Had some spare bootlid hinges (no Colin.. not yours ).

Sandblasted them, put into zink primer and now 2k primer.

 

All seem well ! 

 

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Made a short list of the 'to do's on Fox her body' .. 

-Bootlid: dent in top left

-Bonnet: dent in right side panel + minor dents at the wheelarch + edge of the panel bend in.

-Passenger door: strip fully, sandblast where needed,check for dents

-Drivers door: primer letting loose at door handle, inner top edge not straight

-Rear deck: strip fully, dents, maybe needs welding

-Rear wing right side: dents between wheelarch/a-post/sill) + strip fully

-Rear wing Left side: dent above wheelarch, strip fully

-Windscreen frame: take screen out, de-rust,(welding), primer and screen back in.

-A-posts: fully strip (doors off)

-B-posts: fully strip, de-rust top and weld the top of wings back solid + cracks

-Left sill: repair light damage front

And much more ... 😕

 

and then primer..

In a good 10 days its going to be nice weather.

Maybe will take a day off to crack on!

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7 hours ago, Badwolf said:

Wim - That Mipa grundierfiller is great stuff but take care if spraying it. I assume that you have an air fed mask. I applied mine with a 4” paint roller and got great results apart from the odd dog hair!!

I was doing it outside.. so no mask 🙄 

But been looking into it.

Also been looking at video's of how to do it all ... its going to be a few long days

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The danger with any 2k product (and others more knowledgeable will correct my errors) is the the activated airborne/atomised molecules of the 2k product get drawn into the respiratory system where they coat/line the inside of the 'tubes'/lungs and set., basically painting the inside of the lungs etc. That causes obvious problems. Using a brush or roller is safer as the 2k is not atomised therefore cannot easily be breathed into the system. This is a very basic explaination, but the results can be just as deadly. Sorry to be a scare monger.

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So what can be used now?. Its 20+years since I painted anything more than a small item. Needs to be useable in a (realtively) confined space as the Motorhome blocks getting it outside, and thats on SORN so cannot be moved onto public roads.

Pete

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1 hour ago, PeteH said:

So what can be used now?. Its 20+years since I painted anything more than a small item. Needs to be useable in a (realtively) confined space as the Motorhome blocks getting it outside, and thats on SORN so cannot be moved onto public roads.

Pete

You can still buy celly for home use. 

There are also basecoat/lacquer systems, plus some 1k acrylics. And somebody was selling a "safe" 2k system too, not sure if that is still available.

Or 2k and get an airfed mask. Mine is a homegrew, ex MOD?, certainly military looking gas mask, fed via a 15m hose by a diaphragm compressor. Total cost about £40 and all high quality stuff. And a bit of sealant...

You want to avoid wet 2k paint on the skin too. Cheap disposable coveralls and gloves are wide  

 

The mig welding forum has a good section on painting.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
2 hours ago, Mathew said:

Thats hardly anything, not structural.  Cure the rust ,fibreglass and paint it. If it really bothers you would be easier to get a good secondhand door.

Been looking at it.

 

Been thinking of cutting it out.

My driver door had rust showing on the outer skin because of this..

Not wanting this after shes painted.

 

So will cut it out (maybe with a dremel), sandblast and put new metal in.

 

Actually the whole door needs sandblasting on the inside bottom edge due to rust.

And want/need to strip down the whole door to bare metal , weld, fill and prime it... all in 1 weekend 😅

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1 minute ago, Badwolf said:

Get a tube of structural adhesive and glue the new metal in. No heat, no distortion, no damage to exiting paint and no worries about weld penetration.

I dont need to be worried on paint.. 

Nearly whole car is in primer and.. door still needs to be stripped !

 

In her new dry garage incl a wall full of Spitfire spares and TR7 doors that are for a friend in the Netherlands (still sort of travel ban).

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This week had a look inside my passenger door due to rust.. 

I noticed the stonechip paint that a 'friend' (back in 2011 ) had sprayed inside started to flake a lot.

 

So did a good clean up at the door bottom.

Door does need to come off to be stripped fully, so will sandblast the inside then to.

 

For now some rustconvertor has been sprayed in.

But again not bad for 43 years and all solid.

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Last 2 days I have been doing some more bodywork.

Rear wings and rear deck had a few little marks and dents.

So sorted that out now.

Also while I was at it.. sanded off the sills and bye green zink phosphate !

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