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Spit 1500 body repairs


wimpus
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Also found out why closing the bonnet it pulled a dent in.. 

There was a dent in the bulkhead/side panel, just where the guide wheel of the catch is.

When you close the catch it pushed the wheel against the bulkhead.

With the dent it pushed in to far !

Knocked it back and no more bonnet dent ! 

 

Pics of both sides..

 

 

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Another blow over with primer this morning !

Sadly it was 30 degrees outside today and needed to work in the sun.. to hot !

Otherwise I had fixed the dents in the bonnet and given the top panel some primer to.

Rest of the week its going to be rainy, that stops play.

Slowly getting there !

 

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6 hours ago, Mathew said:

Another step forward. Should be done soon. At least you have been able to enjoy driving while its been going on.

Still lots to do ..

Bonnet needs to be adjusted better and trying to reduce the gap at the passenger side (right side for me).

Possibly the bonnet needs to come off to get it right.

And the windscreen needs taken out etc.

Oh.. and then there is the engine 😅

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1 hour ago, Mathew said:

At least you could get a spare engine to swap out while you do your original. 

I do have a spare engine in my stock.

Last run 7 years ago, but I do try and turn it every month.

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On 20/06/2021 at 12:49, alan.gilbert_6384 said:

Hi Just out of interest, why are you taking the windscreen out ?

Because water is getting in from the screen for years.

The rubber was new in 2013, but never fitted right.. 

The screen itself had a lot of little markings on it + moisture getting between the layers of glass.

And... driving in the sun is a bit of a nightmare as its nearly like the moon.

Very tiny spots all over.. but its in the glass..

 

I do suspect and could just see rust at the spot where it leaks.

 

So its the only way to go ! 🙄

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3 hours ago, wimpus said:

Because water is getting in from the screen for years.

The rubber was new in 2013, but never fitted right.. 

The screen itself had a lot of little markings on it + moisture getting between the layers of glass.

And... driving in the sun is a bit of a nightmare as its nearly like the moon.

Very tiny spots all over.. but its in the glass..

 

I do suspect and could just see rust at the spot where it leaks.

 

So its the only way to go ! 🙄

Badly fitting screen rubber is a known problem, i had to cut and glue my screen rubber to get it to fit. I think there is a dealer selling the correct profile one, someone will know who, as my yellow spit will need one by the end of the year, i know its not the one in Lincoln as thats where my over size one came from.

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4 hours ago, Mathew said:

Badly fitting screen rubber is a known problem, i had to cut and glue my screen rubber to get it to fit. I think there is a dealer selling the correct profile one, someone will know who, as my yellow spit will need one by the end of the year, i know its not the one in Lincoln as thats where my over size one came from.

There is a post on going here on the forum.

 

Best rubber is from COH Baines, so ordered 2 of them.

 

So hopefully its all going to fit.

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Baines are the ones. Correct profile, correct hardness, correct length.  
 

Unlike certain others. Had two from Paddocks (who were very helpful btw) that were both way too long and one was about 30mm longer than the other. Tried shortening the longer one so it was a snug fit around the screen and it was better (could actually get the screen in the car), but still wouldn’t sit right in the corners. Baines one went straight in and sat right first go.

Nick

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If you buy rubber seals by the length rather than pre-made, what is the best adhesive for joining the cut ends. I was recommended to use bicycle puncture repair adhesive, others superglue (but that tends to be brittle in my experience).

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1 hour ago, Badwolf said:

If you buy rubber seals by the length rather than pre-made, what is the best adhesive for joining the cut ends. I was recommended to use bicycle puncture repair adhesive, others superglue (but that tends to be brittle in my experience).

I used the glue from one of those cv repair kits, strong and instant.

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22 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

Mathew - Sorry 'cv' repair kit?? As you can appreciate, over the years I have collected and tested a lot of adhesives plus, I have a few that were samples and never get tried out.

The split rubber boot kits to replace the perished ones

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 26/06/2021 at 10:20, Nick Jones said:

Baines are the ones. Correct profile, correct hardness, correct length.  
 

Unlike certain others. Had two from Paddocks (who were very helpful btw) that were both way too long and one was about 30mm longer than the other. Tried shortening the longer one so it was a snug fit around the screen and it was better (could actually get the screen in the car), but still wouldn’t sit right in the corners. Baines one went straight in and sat right first go.

Nick

Nick,

 

The seam of the seal (where the two ends are together).

Should that be at the bottom or the top ? 

 

On Fox now its at the bottom.

But the manual (a bentley book i think ive seen it in) said that it needed to be at the bottom...

 

I have put the new seal around the new glass and only could fit it with the seam at the top.

 

Could you take a look for me or ask Chris ?

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My weird logic would put the join at the top. Not to be awkward, but it would get marginally less water running over it (no water spill from the windscreen/wipers) plus any leaks can be more easily spotted and dealt with rather than running unseen down the back of the crashpad, dash and the inside of the front bulkhead.

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