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Headlamp conversion


Roger K
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My 'new' GT6 has sealed beam headlamps still, which I think I'd like to change for halogens.  I'm wondering what the perceived wisdom is on wiring - does the stock MkIII rocker switch handle the increased current OK, or would you recommend sticking some relays in there?  I'm assuming the current is increased...

Thanks

Roger

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the best is to add a seperate feed and relays this will awaken the the old glow worms to bright 

and as the Halogen are going to be 55/65 watts theres little change in current over the sealed beams , which if are late may even be more as some were 75 watts

the ebay kits available make this an easy job to fit the relays 

Pete

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7 minutes ago, Roger K said:

My 'new' GT6 has sealed beam headlamps still, which I think I'd like to change for halogens.  I'm wondering what the perceived wisdom is on wiring - does the stock MkIII rocker switch handle the increased current OK, or would you recommend sticking some relays in there?  I'm assuming the current is increased...

Thanks

Roger

No. Halogens draw the same current. But as Pete says, relays are a big improvement.

If you are willing to have a slightly more modern looking lamp, I can thoroughly recommend the "crystal" lamps, think mine are wipac or similar. Coupled with relays and Philips extra bright bulbs (std current) they transformed my spitfires lights. I was doing 12car night rallies, after fitting them I removed the extra spotlights I had previously fitted because they were that good, and 12 years later, still are. 

My switch didn't burn out, but fell apart a couple of years ago. Only 48 years old.... Luckily I had a good spare in a box, doing sterling service.

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If you need a bit more justification for fitting relays I measured voltages on my TR6 before and after fitting them.  Prior to fitting the relays I was loosing over 2V in the wiring from the battery via the switches to the headlights i.e with 14V at the battery I was only getting 12V at the lights.  After fitting relays and heavier feed wiring the voltage drop was reduced to 0.3V i.e. 13.7V at the lights.

I didn't bother checking voltages on my GT6 when I fitted relays but the headlamps are noticeably brighter afterwards.  On both cars the headlights are halogen replacements with standard bulbs.

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4 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

Ah yes, I have used them. However, a little care is needed to keep them dry. I had one on my Toledo, and just prior to the RBRR 2 years ago it stopped working. Connectors on teh unit rusted,and would not come apart. I replaced with a spare I had bought (I fitted 3 sets, but bought 4)

When I refitted, I gave everything a liberal spray of "wax protection spray" like waxoil etc, having taken he relays out of holders etc. This seems to have provided adequate protection as still OK. In fact, any connectors that may get damp now get a quick squirt, just in case . Tip picked up from a landrover owner....

(and flippin wind noise woken me up. blowing a gale down here)

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back in the late 60s 70s  terminal corrosion was a nightmare after many long tests we used a tectyl product on all exposed connections to stop them actually falling off horns and multi conections in the chassis  cant remember the actual spec but had the smell of shellac  and once under your nails it was there for ....longlife 

but it is  an olde problem 

Pete

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7 hours ago, clive said:

However, a little care is needed to keep them dry.

I haven't had a problem on the GT6, but then I don't do the RBRR, nor does it go out in the rain! :lol:

I did have it on my Peugeot 306, a shielded connector at the bottom of the radiator powering the fans. I had to wire in a separate toggle switch to operate them.

Doug 

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