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Circuit weak point


AidanT
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8 hours ago, AidanT said:

Anyone know if it is the same for Mk1 GT6's? Just thinking if the mice have been at my "Rear Wires" 😁, it might be an idea if I could replace  the body harness (if that exists?

It may be; I'll confirm tomorrow. Reason I think it may be is because I have a large chunk or brand new wiring loom in a box marked 'GT6 Mk1' and I know I put a new loom into that car back in the day, so it may be the rear piece, although there's a faint possibility it could be from another area that was not required. I'll confirm.

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Couldn't settle, TV rubbish tonight so out to the garage again. I've found a large section of brand new wiring loom in a box marked Autosparks 1810 which is GT6 MK1 1966 - 68. Photos below.

5977FE68-129B-4DF0-AAD9-4FC095E008E1_1_105_c.jpg.d869f427443be91ff9ed7a9d4aa2310b.jpg  C5A6D244-3952-4B28-8403-BF5CA8A73BFC_1_105_c.thumb.jpg.25ecc29843c00ee1829b6c4273342af0.jpg

D0672647-4501-4735-8ABB-AEF82E816F89_1_105_c.jpg.947f6376267e2652fcd59fc99fd8805c.jpg

The photo with the closeup of the purple / black-white / green and reds seems to be where it joints to the front part of the loom, but it's very long and if it splits anywhere it's around the dashboard / passenger footwell area. The other end is in the bottom photo but there are no bullet connectors fitted for the rear lights; just cut-off cables so I presume I would have been meant to add my own depending on what type of connector it required. So: yes, it definitely comes in two halves.

 

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10 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

there are no bullet connectors fitted for the rear lights; just cut-off cables so I presume I would have been meant to add my own

The rear lights on a Mk1 use a truly horrid not-quite-a-bullet thing which you're supposed to feed the bare wire end through and round before pushing it into the fitting. I had the same with my Mk3 Spitfire loom and it took me a while to find a supplier of the offending items.

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5 minutes ago, NonMember said:

The rear lights on a Mk1 use a truly horrid not-quite-a-bullet thing which you're supposed to feed the bare wire end through and round before pushing it into the fitting. I had the same with my Mk3 Spitfire loom and it took me a while to find a supplier of the offending items.

In the past I have often replaced them with properly Crimped items. Nasty little things IMHO. Very prone to creating poor conections. You used to be able to get the solder type?.

Pete

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15 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

It may be; I'll confirm tomorrow. Reason I think it may be is because I have a large chunk or brand new wiring loom in a box marked 'GT6 Mk1' and I know I put a new loom into that car back in the day, so it may be the rear piece, although there's a faint possibility it could be from another area that was not required. I'll confirm.

Hi Colin

Looks to be the right part, there should be a purple (if the wiring is the standard colours) cable coming off from the main line that feeds the roof light. Message me if you don't want or have need of it, I'd be happy to buy off you

 

Thanks

 

Aidan

Looking @ Autosparks site the 1810 is the full loom and shows as two parts, 1816 seems to be the body / tailgate / Tail section  - Colin do you know what part you did use?  This could be what I need 😊

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6 hours ago, AidanT said:

Looking @ Autosparks site the 1810 is the full loom and shows as two parts, 1816 seems to be the body / tailgate / Tail section  - Colin do you know what part you did use?  This could be what I need 😊

I used the front part; the loom behind the dash had been badly chopped apart, and the engine bay area had some exposed wire through damage, but the rear was ok, so it's still the original. This is the entire half loom from the doors back.

As Rob has pointed out, the bullets are a different version than most of the solderable ones you buy today, but just open up or tighten (as required)  the metal loop they're meant to squeeze into and they'll hold.

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I’ve found the original old female part of the bullet doesn’t like being squeezed and usually breaks so I’ve brought a stack of new female bullets, single, double, and virtually replaced all the old ones esp under the bonnet. I think the old bullets appear to fail with age. It can’t be due to being pulled apart as that’s onl really done at a rebuild stage

Because I put a CV rear end on my Vitesse and trying to feed the bullet fitted wiring loom thro the floor to B post hole was very difficult I cut the loom there fed the bare ended loom thro the hole and soldered on new bullets to each bare end in the rear floor area.

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21 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Couldn't settle, TV rubbish tonight so out to the garage again. I've found a large section of brand new wiring loom in a box marked Autosparks 1810 which is GT6 MK1 1966 - 68. Photos below.

 

The tape, is that just called "harness tape". Would like to get hold of some good electrical tape, rather than general stuff that just goes sticky. 

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13 hours ago, daverclasper said:

The tape, is that just called "harness tape". Would like to get hold of some good electrical tape, rather than general stuff that just goes sticky. 

It will be anathema to the purists. But more modern "classics" moved over to the "split convoluted" type of Shielding/covering. which is available online at moderate cost?. BTW, "self amalgamating" tape can be useful especially finishing off loose ends?.

Pete

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we had loads of the convoluted harness cover  on trucks and ran into a problem of the hard plastic sleeve would wear through the harness inside 

looks nice and less vibro on   a car  than truck so for the miles we do its Ok ...........just a bit of historic awareness

the advantage of the split is you can add or access wires when needed 

Pete

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30 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

we had loads of the convoluted harness cover  on trucks and ran into a problem of the hard plastic sleeve would wear through the harness inside 

looks nice and less vibro on   a car  than truck so for the miles we do its Ok ...........just a bit of historic awareness

the advantage of the split is you can add or access wires when needed 

Pete

I`m currently using it to protect the "new" wiring for the PAS. I have considered wrapping some chafed sections of the 13/60 harness, especially where it passes through the "hidden places" and where it goes under the "B" post.

I have some issues with the 16/60 harness. So will likely start a new thread soon.

Pete

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The harness tape is non adhesive, you secure the start and wrap it around the cables in a spiral ensuring a decent overlap especially where bends wil occur and then secure the end.  The ends can be secured by wrapping normal insulating tape around it or possibly using heat shrink.  If you want to know why harness tape isn't adhesive try bending a thick loom that you have wrapped in insulating tape or a similar adhesive tape🙃  It looks original but can be quite time consuming to get a decent looking loom.

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On 05/03/2021 at 19:38, daverclasper said:

The tape, is that just called "harness tape". Would like to get hold of some good electrical tape, rather than general stuff that just goes sticky. 

I re-wrapped the front loom on my Herald when I restored the loom last year using the non-sticky tape from Autosparks.

It’s time consuming, but looks very nice, however rather than use sticky tape to secure the ends on mine, I went with heat shrink tubing, again from Autosparks, as it’s much more resilient and doesn’t break down like old fashioned electrical tape into a gooey mess over time.

Karl

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1 hour ago, Bordfunker said:

I re-wrapped the front loom on my Herald when I restored the loom last year using the non-sticky tape from Autosparks.

It’s time consuming, but looks very nice, however rather than use sticky tape to secure the ends on mine, I went with heat shrink tubing, again from Autosparks, as it’s much more resilient and doesn’t break down like old fashioned electrical tape into a gooey mess over time.

Karl

I did the same on my Vitesse loom . Well worth the effort 

Paul 

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51 minutes ago, AidanT said:

Hi

Re the loom to the rear of the GT6, does anyone know what a thick WB would be for - probably 30A at a guess thx

Aidan

 

Heated rear screen. (Mk 2 and GT6 Plus) Haynes Manual page 186/7.

Pete

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I've sent you a PM but I suspect heated rear window; even the early GT6 had one (mine did, as an optional extra). The strips are still there but it hasn't worked in many years. I can't remember the name of mine (Hotline or something like that) but it's different to the later versions.

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Know it's taken a long time but I have now had a chance to look at this. The switch is being powered correctly and is working correctly  so now on to the wiring. 

I am going to do a full replacement of the rear loom, but id like to find the fail poont first. Apart from over the wheel arch mentioned before where does the rear loom join up? Is it somewhere near the fuse box??

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