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2.5 alloy wheel nuts ??


Woody2000
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38 minutes ago, Woody2000 said:

Hi just got some 2.5 alloy wheels and at the moment I have steel wheels on my car different nuts !! 

I wondered if any one knew what wheel nuts I need for these alloys and best place to get them 

Are they the 2500s wheels? If so same as stag, just shop around..... circa £5 each

Tony. 

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Deff. go for the steel nuts...or live your life in paranoia, checking the (quite low because they are alloy) torque on the OE ones.

Had an alloy one fire off with a bang once - thankfully about a mile from my destination...and not on one of the previous 100-odd motorway miles!

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

alloy  nuts  ....NUTS      and  add in dissimilar metal corrosion   ....sounds a nightmare waiting to happen 

reminds me of alloy tyre valve /transmitters and steel caps   never to remove without completely wrecking it all, 

Pete

 

Had to cut the OE valve caps off the tyre valves on my Mercedes using a Dremmel - replaced with suitable plastic ones!

As for alloy wheel nuts, they are about as useful as cheese in the hands of a tyre centre, rattle-gun mechanic. Mind you, when I challenged the fitter about stripping 2 of the 4 on one wheel on my GT6, he admitted that as the car wasn't on their list he'd used Ford Focus figures - 120 ftlb. I was amazed the other 2 hadn't stripped...

Gully

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Gordon Bennet! what are Ford thinking of?

But thre wheel fitter monkeyman with a windy-gun is a threat.   

My Citroen c5 seized its alloys to the hubs - I could not get them off, so took it to the dealer.  When It came home, I went to take them off and put some copperease on the faces to stop it happening again.     Some of the bolts were done up to TWICE the set torque,   The rest were THREE TIMES tighter than they should be.   I complained, got an apology and an "explanation" - the dealer had subcontracted the work to the tyre fitter down the road - and a free service!   So complain, in public, while other customers are present!

John

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I still use the alloy ones on the Spitfire and the Michelin garage I go to for tyres is very aware of the alloy's weakness and always remove and refit by hand and old wheel brace! Mind you I do have one wheel nut and stud of the later larger dia. so I have to carry 2 spare alloy wheel nuts in case there's an issue!!

Unfortunately other tyre factors installers aren't as good with the Jag X/XF wheel nuts and over torque them resulting in when later undoing them the nut shears off leaving the threaded built in tapered washer and sleeve in place which then has to be chiseled off to get the remainder of the wheel nut/washer sleeve off and out, cost around $400/NUT pure labour, don't ask how many I've had to have done in an emergency with a flat tyre.

The issue is the designer wheel nut  has a crimped on stainless steel over shoe that to secure in onto the machined nut is crimped or the nut machined/necked thinner between the main nut body/head and the tapered washer WHERE's the weakest point at this necking.

The last time I had this misfortune my Jag service guy had 3 cars in with the same problem one XF had 5 nuts sheared $2000 and nothing to show for it!

With the service guy I have developed a brass sleeve that fits into the wheel hole down onto the remainder of the wheel nut (washer) the brass sleeve is drilled internally so a 1/2in high speed tank cutter less drill insert can fit over the wheel bolt/stud and hence drill thro and cut the washer enabling the wheel to be removed leaving the wheel nut sleeve in place which is undone with mole wrench's and sometimes heat! 

I believe Rangies have a similar type S/S dress wheel nut BUT far more substantial in size, A very poor design feature and Jaguar should be disgusted with themselves!!! the issue is the overtorquing of the wheel nut esp by the rattle guns then the nut seizes and no way hosa will it come undone.

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18 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

alloy  nuts  ....NUTS      and  add in dissimilar metal corrosion   ....sounds a nightmare waiting to happen

The galvanic/electrolytic corrosion is the least of your worries.  That will generally attach them more firmly...and just mean they get buggered when you need to take them off, giving you the opportunity to replace them with steel.

The worry is the fact that, unlike steel aluminium doesn't have a fatigue limit, so every time the wheel goes around and the loading changes it gets a little bit weaker until at some point it either fails in spectacular fashion or (more likely) becomes loose and starts to vibrate undone.

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Nuts!!. Some years back, I self imported an American R-V. The rear Duals took Socket extension bar and 6ft of Scaffold Pole, with 2 very large blokes on the end, to remove. To add insult to injury, one side was Left Handed!. I certainly do not think I would trust an alloy nut on a road wheel. In my experience even Stainless nuts can be problematical. I have used Stainless nut "covers" to disguise "ordinary" nuts.

Pete

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