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New GT6 MK2 Purchase - Help me improve it further!


avivalasvegas
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1 hour ago, avivalasvegas said:

Dale also did not believe that Mintex 1144 pads were the right match for a slow driving city car, given their performance when cold.

Hmm, Well I'm afraid Dale is wrong on that, there are too many people on here with "slow driving city cars" who are very pleased with the efficacy of 1144s. It may be that he's thinking of the more exotic Mintex racing pads.

Also servos, I'm an advocate and I wouldn't be without one, however they don't improve braking, they just make it easier. Dale implies they do. A servo is not the answer until you've got the rest of the braking sorted.

I do agree with him about SUs are a pain, Strombergs are superior and far less trouble.

Doug

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It may be a combination of faulty cylinders, sticky calipers, glazed discs or pads, crap pad quality, so many things can easily be wrong.

Inwould ask Dale to get the standard brakes working as they should.

I had major issues with my Herald Estate, that had a set of new pads and discs fitted to it that I recovered from a scrap car ( think they had been fitted to try to get it through an MOT)

both feet on the pedal and bending the steering wheel with the effort would not make it slow down.

a new set of pads and discs got them much better.

I suspect that trundling round town may not be ideal for Mintex 1144, the year may glaze, I get a similar issue on my Spitfire that's is fitted with Princess Calipers, when I sense the brakes getting a bit "weak" some heavy braking is in order to get them back up to scratch. Really ought to try some different pads.

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Oil is definitely coming from the cap when i looked at it,you can see the trail along the fins of the cover to the rear and then down the back,maybe not on tickover,maybe also a leak on the rear of the head but not the only one.I still think the breather setup isn`t helping.

1144`s on my front heavy Vitesse,never had issues with cold braking,it`s just as good as hot.Agree about the bushes and going through the rears etc.discs are newish,maybe just a deglaze and decent pads required.

If it`s true it has a PH2 cam and 10.5:1 CR I agree you probably won`t get an even tickover at 800 rpm.

Nowt wrong with SU`s if they are setup right.

Steve

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Are you intending to use the car to potter about? If so the cam/head are not ideal, they are suited to a higher revving driving style (ie idle at maybe 1000rpm, and the power band is shifted up the rev range) Worth getting some short trumpets or better still https://www.med-engineering.co.uk/med-stub-stacks

However, for a weekend car used for fun driving, it will be good.

Brakes, new discs are cheap as chips unless he has an on-car refacing machine. He has suggested a servo as he understands what you are asking for, and I would trust Dales advice. He has plenty of experience working on and building cars in all states of tune. I remember having a long chat about breather systems a few years ago. Get it wrong and it can be a real problem. Even my modern engine (20 years old) caused issues at high RPM until I used one of Dales tips.

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My driving style is somewhere in between pottering about and the spirited driving you describe. The good news is that these cars are really enjoyable even at London's 20mph speeds

Will go for the MED short stubs (thanks for sharing the link) as I'm a big believer in getting the best part available for the car. 

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you need to look at the calipers to get the right pin sizes  of the pin hole need opening up  ot a small pin in  large hole gets a lot of rattles     bear in mind calipers get swapped over the years and

may not conform to the listed chassis numbers 

do get hold of metal antisqueal shims and use a Mintex Certek paste    on the backing   NOT COPASLIP 

Type 16P - Imperial
Mk1 & Mk2 (Early) (To KC56077)

Type 16PB - Imperial
Mk2 Late & Mk3 Early (From KC56078 to KE12389/KF12390)

Type 16PB - Metric
Mk3 Late (From KE12390 & KF12391)

 

Pete

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Imperial sets are hard to come across, TSSC shop and a specialist or 2 is about all.

However, the only difference is the pad pin holes, imperial are larger so drill/file out. (luckily I have metric callipers)

There is  new set of 1144's on fleabay for £45 delivered. If I didn't have many sets of pads already I would be snapping them up

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=mgb633+1144&_sacat=0&_sop=15

 

 

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36 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

Club shop non member price £86, member £72. Forget Bern, phone the shop and get Ange for "beneficial" postage rates! However, £45 sounds good, might get some spares myself.

db

Only one set at that price. But other sellers routinely charge about £50 delivered. 

Luckily I have a huge pile of NOS pads to get through, but despite trackdays and hard use, though only 5K or so a year, the pads on there are half worn after 4 years. (DS2500, cold they are not ideal, but seem to cope very well with high brake usage. Saying that, I shan't bother again, they are about twice the cost of the 1144pads)

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I purchased the ebay Mintex pads as advised. Would you be able to point me to the correct pin/ clip kit for those pads?

https://shop.tssc.org.uk/product/pad-pin-and-clip-kit-16p-metric

OR 

https://shop.tssc.org.uk/product/pad-and-pin-set-m16-imperial

I'll also need to purchase the Mintex Certek paste separately. 

Finally, I heard back from Dale who asked if I wanted to " replace the rear inner wishbone bushes and the UJ with the spinning cup too?"

I remember a specific recommendation about buying a UJ only from Chris Witor. I'm sure there's a reason for this. Anyone care to share a website or contact?

Thanks very much for your guidance on this!

 

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

until you can identify just what caliper you have  its get both kits 

as a simple clue the hose//bundy unions  connections  can give a clue as the metric /imp unions are different sizes 

how does the chassis numbers given match with your car ????

Pete

A GT6 Mk2 should have type 16 imperial calipers. The switch to metric happened in 1972, when my Mk3 was built. It had one of each when I bought it 20 years ago!

Regardless of what the factory fitted, it's best to check the retaining pin holes and pipe threads carefully, as the imperial may have been replaced with metric in the past.

Nigel

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6 hours ago, avivalasvegas said:

 

Finally, I heard back from Dale who asked if I wanted to " replace the rear inner wishbone bushes and the UJ with the spinning cup too?"

I remember a specific recommendation about buying a UJ only from Chris Witor. I'm sure there's a reason for this. Anyone care to share a website or contact?

Thanks very much for your guidance on this!

 

Certainly ask him to investigate theUJ, it is probably easiest to just get it replaced and correct circlips sized and fitted.

Fit best available, Freelander ones of some description.

 

if there is play in inner rear wishbones, you will get knocks  and rear end will feel a bit floaty.

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