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New GT6 MK2 Purchase - The journey of improving it further!


avivalasvegas

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4 hours ago, avivalasvegas said:

That was my first thought but the tyres are new and were balanced by an experienced technician.

They aren't wire wheels are they? 

But the speed wobble is most likely something out of balance. Or possibly bent wheel, though that is usually more obvious at slow speeds too. Wheel alignment is a possibility too. As are wheel bearings.

Probably worth returning to your tyre place and get them to re-check the balance. (ideally they should spin and check balance once they put the last weight on, and see everything reads zero. But they never do.....)

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5 hours ago, clive said:

Probably worth returning to your tyre place and get them to re-check the balance. (ideally they should spin and check balance once they put the last weight on, and see everything reads zero. But they never do.....)

Dunlop 13X 5.5. No bends and the bearings are good.

My tyre guy is also very good, so yes they checked to make sure it was zero’d. Car has not been tracked, though I’ve never heard of that causing wheel shudder before.

Will get it checked. I have the grab below as the correct setting.

 

0766118E-1B5F-4E5B-8FE3-10CF4799440E.jpeg

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all you need is this and a tape measure  

double check your spc as many are only given as static laden ie 150lbs

on each seat 

some GT6 specs are given as unladen , cant lookit up right now

or buy a £49 Trackrite from Amazon worth every penny 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunson-G4008-Trakrite-Wheel-Alignment/dp/B0012M9KEC/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=trackrite&qid=1610794986&sr=8-1

just load the car with rent a crowd and set to 0 side slip   takes 5 minutes 

 

Pete

petes toe in.JPG

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7 hours ago, avivalasvegas said:

Dunlop 13X 5.5. No bends and the bearings are good.

My tyre guy is also very good, so yes they checked to make sure it was zero’d. Car has not been tracked, though I’ve never heard of that causing wheel shudder before.

Will get it checked. I have the grab below as the correct setting.

 

0766118E-1B5F-4E5B-8FE3-10CF4799440E.jpeg

I would use those figures EXCEPT camber. I would go for 1degree negative. (I run 1 1/2 degrees negative) You may need some spare shims to get it sorted.

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the unladen book is out in the cold 

but get a trackrite and set to 0 

its toe in /out side slip that rips of rubber  set to zero gives best optimum setting  preferably done with driver and passenger onboard 

the static laden is to achieve the avereage ride height/float of undulating ride 

will dig the manual out in the morning 

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Good afternoon Mr Lewis & Mr Lindsay, I don't want to hijack the thread but just a slight detour, pretty please.

Do you have the same laden & unladen figures for a Herald 13/60 by any chance?

The wear on all 4 wheels of my 13/60 looks slightly to be more pronounced on the outsides. For the rears would this mean more or less shims? I hope less as otherwise I would need to order some from outside the EU, i.e. Britain.

Thanks ever so much, bow, scrape, tug of forelock (well I would if I had any to tuck).

 

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2 hours ago, Chris A said:

Good afternoon Mr Lewis & Mr Lindsay, I don't want to hijack the thread but just a slight detour, pretty please.

Thanks ever so much, bow, scrape, tug of forelock (well I would if I had any to tuck).

 

Happy to oblige, thanks for the humble servility, but a simple: "any chance of the same for Herald?" works here. They don't allow me to put on airs. But it's nice to see a well-bred young man with manners who has obviously been brought up proper. These are from the Service Training Manual, which doesn't make any mention of loading the car with weight beforehand.

camber.jpg.ad50c77233f540e5fa20564c3befa1c3.jpg  castor.jpg.8ec00bff7360d0e8272a11b0c4678946.jpg

 

 

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2 hours ago, Chris A said:

more pronounced on the outsides

camber and castor does not rip off tread like toe in can 

there are no unladen figures in the wsm for heralds etc

you could apply variance in the 2lts as suspensions are pretty much the same for suspension travel errors 

the advantage of a side slip gauge is it tells you exactly what is going on between tyre and tarmac

not going to get my trig book out but you work out how much side slip is in a mile at 3mm toe at the tyre 

perifery    its horrifying  thats where the rubber goes   3mm at the rim is aprox 1 deg   at the tyre 0.5 deg 

note good old triumph do not specify at what radius you measure the toe 

another vote for a slip gauge  ...it dosnt matter 

best £49 to have in the garage

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14 minutes ago, Chris A said:

Thanks Colin, especially for the young man bit, any chance of a clarification as to wear on the outer edge needing more or less shims,please?

On the rear, you want to add shims to get the wheels parallel. Assuming it really is suffering toe-in. The old "2 planks and a tape measure" works very well.... but the gunsons gauge indeed seems to work. 

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Thanks for the extra detail Clive. I looked at the wear again today and it didn't seem as bad as I thought. Maybe I'm being paranoid, at least l know l might have to buy in some shims. I'm not planning to have it checked until spring but at least l have the figures to pass on to the mechanic.

Thanks all. I'll let you get back to the original subject 👏

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we need to get tyre wear into perspective 

edge wear due to camber  will take 20,000 miles to show up

 

incorrect toe will rip rubber off in a 1000   and  down to bald edges  a good while later 

it is most unlikely with the mileages most classics cover that camber will have any effect on tread wear

in rough terms 1deg toe drags the tyre sideways 92 ft      THATS WHERE THE RUBBER GOES 

in most cases of edge wear    for normal driving on tarmac  never due to camber certainly not castor 

under inflation will wear tread edges    same as over inflation wears the centre 

Pete

 

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