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Help!! 2000 Mk2 Newbie


Simon
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Hi All,

 

I have aquired a Triumph 2000 Mk2 Saloon built Dec 1972.

 

I've been working through checking everything out as it's been sitting for 14 years in a garage!

 

Fitted a new battery and new fuel hoses as they were gone.

Cranks over nicely but no spark.

 

The coil has power and attaching a HT lead straight to it, give no spark.

I attached the + and - straight to the battery and tapped the - to simulate points and it gives out a VERY small spark.

I tried an old MG coil with the same test and it did the same, I believed this coil was OK (maybe not)

 

Am I testing it wrong?

I have also mesaured with an OHM meter and get the below:

 

+ to - = 1.6 OHM

- to HT = 5.02K OHM

+ to HT = 5.02K OHM

 

The ballast resister meauser about 60 OHM but seems a bit irratic and initally started at 207 OHMS and slowly dropped., may just be poor connections? Is this correct?

 

All tests done without anything connected.

 

So is the coil dead? If so advise on the correct one?

Is the ballast OK? What spec is the replacement

 

Other issues

1) The fuel tank is half full, 14 years old petrol, is it dead? Where can I get rid of it?

2) One of the carbs is overflowing, have removed it and the piston was stuck, seems to have no oil, is it just a simple strip down? Are there rebuild kits?

3) The Rad fins in the brittle are just fallinging off, where can I get another, is this used on other cars? Is it worth just a re-core?

4) I notice in the fuse box area there is a white and green cable not connected. I can't see this in the electrica diagram, any idea what it is and where it goes to (if at all)

post-1242-0-75132600-1436117625_thumb.jpg

 

 

Also where is the best place for parts?

 

I'm hoping to get it running at little cost, but I suspect that won't be the case.

I also have aquired from  him a Renown, its in a real state, so I thought I'd get this one running first.

Any owners in the Cambridge area, would be good to compare notes!

 

Many thanks for any help you can give! :-)

 

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Simon

 

Welcome to the Forum.  i'm not able to answer many of your questions, but 14 year old fuel probably passed its sell by date 13 years ago.  You will need to contact your local refuse centre to dump it and it may cost.

 

For parts and advice I recommend Chris Witor; www.chriswitor.com   he's a real enthusiast and expert in 2000s and 2.5s.  Also contact your local Area Organiser in the Area Directory in The Courier; there may be an expert on your door step.

 

Regards

Mike

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The white green is for when its automatic gearbox, had one on mine it doesnt go anywhere and not shown in many diagrams, in fact I used it on my mk2 to replace the balasted coil feed to 12v

and fitted lumenition kit.

 

1.6ohm is about right for a ballasted coil, if you change to 12v fit a 3 ohm coil

 

CW is a good supplier and web site has good techy clues about known foibles

 

weak spark could be condenser problems with it or its wiring

 

 

pete

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Hi Pete, thanks for your reply and messge. I tested it outside the car but reading up you need to add the condesor to get a spark.

So I suspect its the condensor.

I'm going to replace all the bits and add a 12 coil as the ballast is ropey. I assume I just join the ballast connectors together?

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I siphoned off my old fuel, a galleon or so at a time and added it to my modern's tank, it didn't seem to mind. So save disposal costs. I'd get a siphoning kit else you're bound to get a mouthful of fuel at some point! :wacko:

 

Rimmer Brothers and Canley Classics are the two big suppliers, both do carb repair kits. The TSSC shop is also first stop for most items.

 

Modern condensers can be poorly made so don't get one from E-Bay. Electronic ignition is a good and worthwhile upgrade but, already I'm advising you to spend your cash! :lol:

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if you have an actual ballast resistor yes just bridge/join the connections,

 

if you have a pinky/white resistive wire in the harnes you have to find a 12v ign controlled source and dispose of the ballasted link wire 

thats what mine had , hence used the unused green white  fitted it to a ign fed fuse  spare terminal on the box  and ran it to the electronic and 12v replacement coil.in the engine bay

 

there's a real   mixture of wiring diagrams, and getting the right one to suit all the model years and variants makes Emerdale seem quite dull 

 

Pete

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Thanks both for the replies, I'm sure its the condenser but in the end went and ordered new bits: 12v coil, points with condenser, cap and rotor and new HT leads. I will bypass the ballast resistor as its terminals have had it anyway.

Took the leaky carb apart, all gummed up inside, the float valve is stuck open hence the overflowing and the needle also gummed up and old a little pitted at the very end so will make do just to get running, spoke with CW and has stopped selling them due to issues so he advised that Burlen Fuel systems have them, ordered them and the gasket set, held back on the rebuild kit as getting expensive and I don't know what other horrors I have to face yet!

Took the old fuel up the tip, they just poured it in the oil container! Brought back some old containers for the rest.

So these will keep me busy for a bit, I'll be back with more questions then! :-)

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thats about the best as CD3 doesnt have temperature compensators to adjust, and has the better starting valve choke

add in biased needles makes it a good one

 

the only disadvantage is it needs a long allen key to turn the needle adjuster down the dashpot tube

developed as part of the 70s tamper proofing idea's  you can remove the plastic plug and fit a bottom adjuster if you feel inclined &  keep the biased need

 

far easier to twiddle 

 

Pete

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I saw the tool, around £11, I'll invest once I've got it running and there are no major issues!!!

 

OK, so started to drain the rest of the tank, gauge was reading around 1/3-1/2. So was expecting a lot to drain, 10 litres later it stopped, I blew through the pipe to check it wasn't blocked and added some back to t he tank and it flowed out OK, so it would appear either the float has jammed up, sender is faulty, possibly shorting out on the tracks or the gauge is misreading, or maybe someone has fitted incorrect parts as some point!

 

Is this a common failure?

 

Its a 2000 MK2 saloon, can I take the sender out without the tank? Can't get in as its full of parts but is it accessed from the boot or back seat?

 

Is there a list of volt measurements any where I can check against based on position.

 

I put 5 litres of fresh in and pumped it through to the carb pipes, forgot the lead additive but looking at the measurements its a tiny amount, how important is it really?

 

Just waiting on the other new parts top come before I can try and start it again....

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the sender is accessible behind the card boot liner

 

dont bother with addative costs there's enough lead memory in the head casting to last thousands of miles 

use a97+ ron fuel  kepp ign timing as close to book as possible

and only engine oil in the dashpots,  thes are your accelerator enrichment device  never 3 in 1  or any low viscosity cats pee  as its got to work as a damper.

 

pete

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You can use a long reach key to adjust the needle but will need to holdvthe piston to avoid ripping the diaphragm,

the special tool has a location to hold the dashpot top of piston, but a small dia knurled grip

on mine I added two tapped holes and added a short tommy bar

 

Biased needles have a small o ring to prevent oil leakage these can give up

 

easy to change

 

 

for good pic on carb setting have look at

www.buckeyetriumphs site

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Hi Pete do you mean part number 46 on the diagram here http://zenithcarb.co.uk/carbspec/carburettor/spares/id/4016/

 

OK So sorted the HT issues, was the condenser and the ballast. Fitted the new bits and bypassed the ballast. Cleaned out the stuck carb and fitted the new inlet valve.

Just about to put it back on I noticed the original engine side gasket has a round cut-out inside which matches a hole in the carb, however this the original two gaskets and spacers were fitted round the other way as you can see from the indents in the old one, so it was blocked. See pic,of old bits (opposite way to how it was fitted) and new gasket next to it

 

post-1242-0-92217100-1436642316_thumb.jpg

 

Does it matter? Not sure if this hole actually goes anywhere, plus the new gasket in the kit does not have the cut-out. Thoughts?

 

Hope to clean out the other tomorrow and refit them and see if she finally starts!

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yes thats the o ring, held down with a sprag washer which will deform when removed, renew or tap flat before re inserting.

only do this if absolutely necessary.

 

 

 

if it had temperature compensators fitted on the side this is the air flow from it , 

 

to bypass the throttle plate when idling, if you dont have them fitted this port is blind , stick a straw in it and blow ti doesnt go anywhere so the gaskets upside down didnt affect anything

 

on some this idea is where the starter valve enriches the cold (choked) starting  , memory is a bit grey here  so check the port has no function

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So the hole was blocked so wasn't an issue.

Cleaned up the carbs and fitted the gasket kits...
She starts and runs! icon_biggrin.gif , though I think the timing is out but the oil seems very thin and watery so didn't want to run for too long! Will have to step through each bit and check the carb balance etc..

The OIL spec says 20W50, Any recommendations or anything to avoid? Is it just a case of going for Castrol Classic? Looking at the various manuals one says 4.55L, another says 5.1L, I wonder if the lower is without a filter change?

Also anyone got a N\S Wing mirror spare? its been snapped off by some toe-rag at some point.

Tyres all need replacing, posted up another thread question about sizes.

I seem not to have a Fog light - I assume that is still needed to be added to pass an MOT despite its age ?

So I guess now it runs, so will the money on parts!

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reckon i have some, removed as needed a telescope to see anything, 

 

gone to door mirrors ,  neither are brilliant but door fit can be adjusted without getting wet and needing a spanner 

 

and work with my varifocals

 

will have a rumage and confirm

 

Pete

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The OIL spec says 20W50, Any recommendations or anything to avoid? Is it just a case of going for Castrol Classic? Looking at the various manuals one says 4.55L, another says 5.1L, I wonder if the lower is without a filter change?

 

I seem not to have a Fog light - I assume that is still needed to be added to pass an MOT despite its age ?

 

 

Try Valvoline VR1 20/50. Seems very good, Buy from Eurocarparts, especially when they are offering additional discount. Lots of the other cheapo ones are pretty poor quality now, degrade very badly very quickly. Other options are Millers Classic Sport 20/50 or they also do a 20/60.

 

You do not need a fog light, so remove it and any switch for it, makes life simpler.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

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reckon i have some, removed as needed a telescope to see anything,

will have a rumage and confirm

 

Pete

 

Hi Pete

Here is what I'm looking for for the N\S, Else I would look at replacing both to match with something similar. Thanks

post-1242-0-22658300-1436817263_thumb.jpg

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DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 eat paint work the difference between them is their boiling point, 5.1 is the best having the highest. Confusingly DOT 5 is nothing to do with 5.1, it is silicon based and does not eat paint work. A lot of nonsense is talked about DOT 5. The others lubricate brake rubbers and to a certain extent cover up failing rubber. DOT 5 does not. People blame DOT 5 for destroying their brake rubbers where as they were shot already. Others say DOT 5 results in a softer pedal, again nonsense, you just have to bleed the brakes properly.

 

If you put in DOT 5 it's a good idea to change your brake rubbers at the same time. Also DOT 5 is two or three times the price of the others. So the question is, is it worth it just to protect your paint work? Also DOT 5 lasts indefinitely, the others should be changed every two years due to water absorption.

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DOT4   is non petrol based  poly glycol synthetic DOT has a lower threshold for boiling

 

DOT4 is whats specified for these cars and goes right up to moderns in 2015

 

dont get confused with dot5 silicon or dot 5.1  poly glycol based    you dont need to go to 5.1

 

and any thoughts on dot5 silicon needs either renewal or serious cleaning of old  before use.

 

DOT5 advantage is it doesnt strip paint. collects water but doesnt absorb it

 

DOT 3/ 4 /5.1  absorb water , do strip paint , recomended by all manufacturers/suppliers  needs a change every two years 

as water moisture gets in via the cap vent .

 

most car fires are due to brake fluid on hot  exhaust surfaces it will burn violently easily    ,  surprisingly   petrol ....wont 

 

 

just off on hols will look out a mirror but cant do any post till  Im back

 

Pete

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  • 2 weeks later...
OK, so spent yesterday degreasing the engine bay and underneath.
Today in the process of removing the pulley to do the timing chain felt play in the crankshaft.
Dropped the suspension and took the sump off and had a look, so using the feeler gauges measure .95mm taken at the clutch end as shown in the below pic.

Questions..
So not sure if this is the right place to measure or not, assume its an accurate measurement?
I assume this is excessive and that I should fit new thrust washers?
Do you just fit one thrust washer or do they stack?
Is it likely it's just the thrust washer that's worn down with age, or is this something more serous?
I assume I need to remove the bearing cap and remove the thrust washer and fully measure it to work out the replacement
If so do they fit in just one place on the crank or at every bearing cap?
Can fit these without splitting the gearbox or taking the engine out?

Hoping this will be an easyish and cheapish fix!
TIA
post-1242-0-11413300-1437940454_thumb.jpg
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Just drop the rear main cap there are lugs on this which stop the half moon from rotating.

then push the old washer out with a piece of wire , it will slide around and drop out,

buy a set of each size they are cheap,

Once our you can see what size you have and what oversize you need to reduce the play.

just slide the replaecment by rotating into the face

you can use different thickness each side to get the right clearance

 

I did mine and had much problem with the washers sitting against the journal radius and this reduced the float until given a few rotations , and they settled in place .. in fact I need to do it all again

 

not a bad job on car just labourious dropping the x member ,

 

just surprised the size needed wont fit , untill all buttoned up and float still at maximum

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