dougbgt6 Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Yes, what Pete said. Putting on my prophet of doom hat, if the thrust washers are worn the rest of the bearings may also be worn and it might be worth replacing the lot while your down there. But you'll see the condition of the rear main bearing when you get it off. I'm sure yours wont be as bad as mine. My thrust washers were so worn that with the crank moving backwards and forwards the pistons were being dragged and pushed in their bores. This wore the bores into an elongated S shape and stuff was getting past the rings into the sump turning new oil to jelly in a matter of weeks. A re-bore was the only option. Shouldn't have told you that really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Thanks Both, dropped it out easier than I thought! All looks good actually, have ordered some different sizes, along with a load of other bits.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 OK, progress so far, all back together, did the static timing and got it running, is running a bit rough and the mixture seems rich. So need to work through these. Quick q, I noticed removing the oil filler car on the rocker causes the revs to drop. Is this normal? Is this due to the fact that it it is directly vented into the carbs? Or does this point to an issue? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 no youve just opened the manifold to ouside air doing ths can speed up or slow down depends on how the things set the carbs or smiths valve allow any combustion gases to be sucked in and reburnt. based on no other air can get in then you take the cap off and whoosh ,big hole lots of air ....no petrol !!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 OK thanks Pete. So been reading up on trying to get things setup corrected. Is it best to start with the timing before carbs? I did a static value at 10 deg BTDC which got it running (out as having fitted new chain) So is there an art to setting it, running UL fuel, I have a timing gun but waiting on a rev counter. any recommendations on setting for UL, both static and dynamic and at what revs with the advance disconnected? I have cleaned and rebuilt the 150CD3 carbs with gaskets and new needle valves and fitted new needles, is it a case of just setting the needle base flush with the bottom of the piston and then balancing the idle with a tube by ear? Then cleaning up the plugs and seeing if they are sooty? I did try what the Haynes manual said about lifting the piston and if set correctly the engine should rise and then fall, but it didn't so turned clockwise to enrich and ended up fully lifting the needle and still did't behave as it said and ended up with black plugs. Am I doing something wrong? I also need to check the (brand new) HT leads I got as got a shock off one, which would indicate its faulty I think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 for now forget the balance , set both throttles fully closed, then turn idle screw to just touch its abutement then turn screw 1.5 turns on each , connect the spindle link and jobs done for now. once its running you can check with a balancer , but that how they were supplied to the engine bench in the factory, all settings were simple mechanical pre determined no fancy stuff till the mid 80s. to set the jets , remove damper stick screw driver down the hole , hold the piston down, turn base adjuster up till it touches the piston, undo big nut 1/4 turn and give a tap to centre the jet. test piston drops with a clunk ... nip the big base nut . if you have top adjusters set the needle collar flush with base of piston , then adjust 1/4 turn at a time back off bottom adjuster 3 turns , this will start it , as both jets are now in the same place adjust each equal amounts each time you twiddle if you have lifting pins you need the filters on or you waste your time. the piston lift pin needs to just touchy feel the piston then lift it 0.5 to 1mm and note small changes in running rich ups the idle 50 rpm weak drops the idle ... only a small change and only for a few seconds . dont yank the pistons and expect wonderous changes , youre lifting fine a listening small. as for listening with a tube .. stick to the mechanical setting it will be as close as triumph ever fitted there are a load of simple pop over balancers available for a few ££s, get one for christmas and use it when all is up and running static timing with bulb across the coil or with a strobe 10deg btdc is fine low idle 600 or stationary vac adv discconected dynamic look for 29/31 at 3000 check the manual as many dizzy figures for dynamic are decelerating if the springs are fair and static is set then the dynamic should come out about right anyway when she's on the road you may need to retard a couple of degs. if you get any pinking. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Hi Pete, thanks for your reply, these 150CD3 carbs have no lifting pin, I was using a small screw driver to lift up the piston, however are you saying I should only be lifting is a <1mm - so a very small amount? Perhaps I'm lifting it too much. Also for the needle, I think you are describing something different. I have the Stromberg tool which holds the piston and you turn the Allen key. I was setting the needle base 1mm proud of the base of the piston. Are you saying I should be setting it even more proud till it goes further into the body valve hole and then touches the body base and then wind back up Allen key by 1/4 turn? Do you think the HT lead is dodgy or just a poor plug connection and shocked me when moving it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Here is a link to Buckeye Triumphs, (recommended to me by someone called Pete Lewis) it tells almost all there is to know about Strombergs, although these are175s they are very similar to 150s. Tuning, I think, is the third link at the bottom. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm I wouldn't get too hung up on static timing and strobe guns. It's best done by ear. Obviously it has to be someway before TDC then start it up and turn the dizzy to highest revs, then back a gnats. Take it for a run, if it pinks back a bit more until it doesn't pink. I have a tool for carb balancing but to be honest it's easily done by ear. I've done it by ear and checked it with the tool, spot on! (Another tool I didn't need!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 i meant to add the buckeye site , good for clues, burlen and others give lots of how to. with the top adjuster the small nylon needle collar needs to be just level with the piston base or a small amount below it , never disapeared up inside or hanging down nothing else to do , jets and such are all fixed so no twiddling to do the sprung (biased) needles are self aligning nothing to centre here. the lift pins were all deleted when tamper proofing was introduced around the early 70s, with the cleaner Off you cant get the correct mixture so any piston lifting is a waste of time maybe a colour tune will do what you need ....get two one for each carb bank. and dont forget to borrow Doug's ears !!!!! shocks from HT leads is not uncommon if the end on the cable is close to the end of the dizzy or plug moulding the spark will take the least line and jump to your hand. youve got that Tee shirt already ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2015 Spent a bit of time tinkering, replacing the needle valves as the new ones kept jamming ans flooding - Burlen sent me ones with mesh filters and a different pin design and seem much better design and less likely to stick. Still very rough running so need to try and work through it., Anyway a question about the dizzy, so I set static to get running and then found I could turn it a long way clockwise and it seem to to make any difference to revs (vacuum hose on) I though this would increase the revs? Turning back did drop Is this normal? Is this because the revs were really high as on choke and carbs not adjusted? Or because the timing was set OK and more just will impact performance under load rather than revs? Or because the advance sorts it out? Or would this indicate an issue, this is a brand new dizzy, I believe the other did the same but not gone back to it. TIA PS great day at Duxford last week, shame that it was in note state to drive there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Oop, s edit this one out as all out of sync Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Yep went with 4. Any ideas on the dizzy questions? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Spent a bit of time tinkering, replacing the needle valves as the new ones kept jamming ans flooding - Burlen sent me ones with mesh filters and a different pin design and seem much better design and less likely to stick. Hi Simon, I looked at Burlens homepage, but I could not find any needle valves with "improved design". Do you have a part number or any other info? Thanks in advance, Roger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 If you had a fast idle the effect of advancing is much less at idle it will increase the manifold vacuum and rise the idle , at 1500 2000 it wont be so obvious pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Hi Simon, I looked at Burlens homepage, but I could not find any needle valves with "improved design". Do you have a part number or any other info? Thanks in advance, Roger. See attached pictures of what they sent me. Looks like its these? http://zenithcarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=B24008 Thanks Pete, reset everything but still running rough, just waiting for new plugs as not replaced them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Plugs ...life and soul of the engine, its amazing when you put a nice looking plug under some test pressure that the spark leaps out all over the place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 See attached pictures of what they sent me. Looks like its these? http://zenithcarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=B24008 Thanks Simon! Looks like a brilliant idea to have a small filter there, I will definitely try to get a pair for my Vitesse Mk I. Cheers, Roger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Also I think these are 1.5's but I'm sure they do other sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 Rather than hijack the other threads I thought I'd carry on here.. OK so fitted new plugs and its still rough at all revs. Now I have no history as to how it used to run and has sat for over 11 years,, So far on this car I've fitted: new plugs new HT leads new rotor arms new dizzy caps new points new condenser new dizzy to old unit new coil (12v) to old unit removed ballast resistor and joined connections together new carb float needles new mixture needles new carb diaphrams all new hoses new carb gaskets new voltage stabalizer new fuel sender Cleaned out fuel tank, pump and pipes, cleaned out carbs added fuel filters new fuel hoses and clips new rad and hoses new timing chain new typres new shocks new headlights rebuilt clutch and brake masters oil and filter change Carbs seem setup fine and colour tune one in each bank seems about right as do plug colours I did also try changing the mixture bud didn't make any difference to the rough running pulling a HT lead off at a time didn't point to any of them I did a compression test a few weeks ago while cold and started dry: 1 2 3 4 5 6 DRY 135 120 128 115 138 130 WET 138 125 130 120 140 137 Now I'm not sure if I put enough oil in as was difficult to tell at the time. So 4 is a bit lower that the rest. I probably should retest it warm maybe and more oil? Are these about right for a MK2 2000? Would these reading make it run very rough? If these reading are correct its probably a mixture of slightly leaky valve seats and rings? Starting to lose it now.... Thoughts anyone? Thanks in advance PS If anyone in the Cambridge area is interested in picking this up this project!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 If poss always best to do it hot with all plugs out and throttles wide open those results seem a tad low 2 and 4 are below the others was this done withbplugs In? Youve done everything else add head off to the list double check your firing order is 15 36 24 anticlock if you need support I can run over from sunny luton pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Hi Pete, Firing order is correct. I did it with the plugs out, didn't open throttles though. I can retest warm and see what the results are like. So do you link its head off then? Possible valves? Appreciate the support, might take you up on it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 One thing I forgot to add, inlet manifold was off and sent away to CW to get the banjo snapped machined out. I refitted it without a new gasket (I have) as didn't want to break the exhaust as well. Also use jump leads to ensure the engine was fully earthed. Below is a also a vid, of it showing it running, recording sound isn't great but you can see it shaking https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=E6EC3B5B8564E565&resid=E6EC3B5B8564E565!278&authkey=ANiVrm94zbfmdHA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Needs throttles open to get unrestricted air into the cylinders are you sure its not over advanced? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 I have set timing as static and tried two dizzys, I turned dizzy anticlockwise and revs dropped and clockwise no difference in roughness. I did see comments about the outer pulley moving, is there any way to be sure its correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Full marks for diligence! I would bite the bullet and change the manifold gasket but if your having the head off your going to do that anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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