Simon Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Just had a chat with CW. He feels the compressions are typical and not low enough to cause this. He has suggested checking the brake servo vacuum pipe and clamping it. Also Check timing mark is TDC when 1 or 6 in\outlets are equal. Suggested also checking the valves are opening the same amounts possible (unlikely on a 2000) that cam lobe issue. Also maybe someone had fitted a different cam. Could check the markings on the end, but may have to pull it to check :-( @Pete Many thanks I'll come back to you once I have done some more testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 if its got a fast cam it may need like double the normal clearance, tight tappets will make a shaky idle not sure the mk2 has a rubber bonded ( or not) mounted damper ring certainly on Vit and GT6 it has one , big saloon has a different front pulley. my 1600 was one we found the problem of the rotating markers. as youve replaced just about everything I doubt the engine has been meddled with or you would have unravveled some clues along the way check manifold gasket for leaks , squirt can with some petrol on the joint if it races its leaking. it wont catch fire on the exhaust ....oil or brake fluid certainly will . how about recheck valve timing set 11 12 on the rock adjust 1 2 to 0.040" then turn crank to TDC gaps on 1 2 should be equal without taking efficiencies into account a compression test result is roughly atmospere x compression ratio eg 8.5 x 14.7 = 125 psi so yes their close Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Thanks all for your input and Pete for your kind offer. So I went through everything suggested this evening. Whist doing so and thinking about an air leak I remembered something I had spotted and asked about before. The spacer and gaskets between the carbs and inlet manifold have a bulge lined up with a hole on the carbs. Now this hole actually goes no where on these. When I took them off the first time I noticed these were all round the wrong way meaning the hole was blocked. When I put them back together I put them the correct way, however, and probably why it was done in the first place, was the manifold side gasket had no bulge and on close inspection found that without this bulge meant that there was a small gap on the edge allowing air in\out. So I made up some bigger gaskets and refitted everything and ran it up for a short time (late now) and although now rich it seems to be much smoother. Have reset the timing, mixture and idle back the defaults so will have to retune it all at the weekend. Only issue I have is one of the small bolts that hold the carb to throlle linkage snapped. Any ideas where I can get a replacement as can't find them listed anywhere. Is it a case of using an M3.5\4 nut and bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Well done! The carb/manifold gaskets can go on four ways. One of them right and three wrong! The right way, upside down, back to front and back to front upside down! I'm not prepared to divulge how I know this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 Yes any bolt that fits will be fine , these tend to get overtightend and they get a bit bent and give up when retightend doug what size Tee shirt then ?. those holes are used if the carbs have a throttle bypass emmission device like temperature compensators on strombergs etc pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 not sure the mk2 has a rubber bonded ( or not) mounted damper ring certainly on Vit and GT6 it has one , big saloon has a different front pulley. my 1600 was one we found the problem of the rotating markers. Pete: How did you fix it? Are new (or reconditioned) front pulleys available?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 25, 2015 Report Share Posted September 25, 2015 Roger we replaced the pulley doesnt seem available other than second hand the damper ring refused to depart the centre but could be turned by hand with relative ease, I wanted to examine the thing to see why the bonding had lost its adhesion but not its shape it all looked fine and little point in attacking with a hacksaw so it went in the bin but it took bit of puzzling why cam timing and ign timing were all a bit screwy until a piston stop check showed the tdc marks were incorrect pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Posted September 26, 2015 Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 Roger we replaced the pulley doesnt seem available other than second hand the damper ring refused to depart the centre but could be turned by hand. I wanted to examine the thing to see why the bonding had lost its adhesion but not its shape it all looked fine and little point in attacking with a hacksaw so it went in the bin. but it took bit of puzzling why cam timing and ign timing were all a bit screwy until a piston stop check showed the tdc marks were incorrect pete Thanks for the info Pete. I suspect that my Mk I Vitesse might be suffering from the Rotating Timing Mark Syndrome. Investigation is ongoing... I was hoping that it could be repaired in one way or another. There are a lot of new glues and chemical stuff on the market nowadays, sometimes they have very impressive strength and performance (See http://www.loctite.com for instance). Pete, did you try to separate the parts in a hydraulic press? Anyone heard of how to fix this? Sorry for drifting away from the original subject in your thread Simon, maybe this should be a new one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 26, 2015 Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 "Rotating Timing Mark Syndrome"! A condition long suspected, and seen by the likes of Kastner, but AFAIK not documented in recent times. That 40+ year old rubber lets go cannot be a surprise, but no one seems to be able either to repair the old dampers, or to build new ones. It will be strange if Triumph engines die for the lack of a minor component, as the alternative that is available, the "Rattler" style of damper, is very expensive. Meanwhile, Kastner had a trick that is worth using, once you have established that your damper is accurate for TDC. Drill a hole in the V of the pulley, right through the rubber into the hub. Note the depth and check the depth of the hole from time to time. If the probe won't go full depth, the damper has shifted. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Posted September 26, 2015 Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 "Rotating Timing Mark Syndrome"!Kastner had a trick that is worth using, once you have established that your damper is accurate for TDC.Drill a hole in the V of the pulley, right through the rubber into the hub. Note the depth and check the depth of the hole from time to time. If the probe won't go full depth, the damper has shifted. John Thanks John, that was a clever way to simplify RTMS-diagnosis! Will do. Cheers, Roger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 26, 2015 Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 no at the time we didnt realize it was ....a normal failure!!! or categorised , so once replaced i gave up the head scratching as hair was gone anyway guess you could fit a big saloon damper pullley which has the similar damper timing ring behind the pulley, must fit the crank, the nut or bolt fix dosnt really matter, offset may be different but the water pumps in same place but as new they are £100 !!!!! like Loctite products they solved many headaches on production over and above any other trials we did . if you could keep it balanced you could strap it in place but there's some good forces at work in harmonic dampers any thing added may throw its self to bits if there's any gap to get some capillary action may be some base of supa glue would re adhere it ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Quick one, just started on the body work fixing previous bodges and filler jobs.. Can someone post up a clear pics of a 2000 MK2 4 door saloon rear wheel arch showing the overall arch, door section and fit and the inner section views. Looking at the metal construction (once rust and filler removed!) like there should be a horizontal seam line at the top of the sill running into the wheel arch, is that right? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 no pictures at hand but yes horizontal seam top of sill line to lower arch Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwad Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 see my blog for lots of photos exterior of my pi and rel seams car will be on register stand at NEC no filler never welded at work tonight may be able to get some pics tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Simon, Can a make a small suggestion that would help many of the readership. Rather than making this thread ever longer and on a variety of topics, that you run them in the relevant sections (eg engine, bodywork etc). Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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