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Vitesse throttle pedal


Gadgetman
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1 hour ago, 68vitesse said:

never had any problem with the original setup.

I had a bit of a problem with the original setup on my early 2L Vitesse when the hinge at the bottom of the pedal rusted away completely. It took me a while to figure out why the pedal felt "odd", until we got to our destination and parked up, then I could look down and see that I'd been driving it with the rod linkage alone as if it were a hanging pedal.

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On 25/11/2020 at 18:40, 68vitesse said:

In what way is it an improvement?, never had any problem with the original setup.

Regards

Paul

A number of reasons - somewhat subjective probably - but I didn't like the engineering principle of the way the organ pedal pulls, imho, awkwardly on the cable.  The fixing of the organ-pedal to the floor can trap water and it is well-known place for rust on the cars (yes, my hood leaks, always has - I know it shouldn't but the reality is it does).  The hanging pedal eliminated this particular source of decay.  Also on my car, the throttle cable needed to be capable of operating a kickdown cable, which adds resistance, so it needed something a bit different to the original set up.  My car uses a Spitfire pedal and pedal-box below the bulkhead and, iirc, parts to receive a Triumph 2000 cable on the top of the bulkhead.  It worked for me but I appreciate it might not be of any benefit to others.

Tom

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3 hours ago, TomL said:

A number of reasons - somewhat subjective probably - but I didn't like the engineering principle of the way the organ pedal pulls, imho, awkwardly on the cable.  The fixing of the organ-pedal to the floor can trap water and it is well-known place for rust on the cars (yes, my hood leaks, always has - I know it shouldn't but the reality is it does).  The hanging pedal eliminated this particular source of decay.  Also on my car, the throttle cable needed to be capable of operating a kickdown cable, which adds resistance, so it needed something a bit different to the original set up.  My car uses a Spitfire pedal and pedal-box below the bulkhead and, iirc, parts to receive a Triumph 2000 cable on the top of the bulkhead.  It worked for me but I appreciate it might not be of any benefit to others.

Tom

When I restored my Vitesse convertible I had to replace both front foot wells, also I have driven many many miles in the rain with the hood down. Mainly because I did not want to stop to put it up, keep the speed up not a problem, or the car was already wet when I got back to it, you do get some strange looks.

Regards

Paul

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Hi

The "organ" pedal also puts the ankle at an awkward angle at it`s limit too. I may consider swapping out for the "hanging" Pedal, if I can source one. Has anyone got Pictures of the way it is fitted?. It may be possible to modify from another vehicle?.

Pete

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, went to run my MK2 Vitesse and found the accelerator pedal floppy and cable detached! I can't see how to re-attach it, is there a clip somewhere? The pedal doesn't come back 'up' to operating position when I try to re-attach the cable! Am I missing something? I'm fairly mechanically minded but I can't see how to get it back in the right position.

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if its the same as the mk1 you just pull the nipple on the end of the cable up under the dash inside the car (access is a bit awkward) down and engage it in the slot of the accelerator pedal.

It might have become disengaged if you tried to operate the trottle directly from the carbs in the engine bay. However do also check that the nipple at the pedal end hasnt come off or that the clamp at the carb end is undone....

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if you got the nipple engaged in the pedal then the spring in the carb mechanism should pull the pedal up unless the cable at that end has come loose... Also theres a spring in the pedal hinge that pushes it up but even if this is broken I would expect it to work....

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Is there a clip that holds the cable in place? I remember this from many years ago on a Mini, I thought that if you tightened the accelerator cable fully it would give more movement at the carbs - no - and then when I slackened it off, it kept dropping off the pedal rod. It does need a certain tension to hold it in place but on some cars there's also a clip to keep it there.

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my cable just sits in a small boss with rubber washer that stops it going into the hole in the bulkhead deck. Its not clipped as you can lift it away from the deck... Cant see how you could lose the boss but if it wasnt there maybe the cable sheath would go through the hole and of course then the pedal wouldnt work. Otherwise I wonder if the pedal hinge spring has failed and the carb spring isnt man enough on its own to pull the pedal up?

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Thanks Jonny, tried that but the pedal is still loose and not coming up? Is there a clip of something to take up the 'slack'?

I've just got the battery charged, tested the spring and throttle spindle for movement, a bit of light lubrication then started up - same revving out of control. Stopped engine. Then repeated above and noticed that on full choke the throttle cable was still loose, then tensioned the carb return spring again and it seemed to rotate the spindle and take up the throttle cable slack.  Started up with half/two thirds choke and all good, warmed up at normal revs with throttle cable tension back again. Could full choke or an issue with the choke cable have been the problem? 

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Hi all, it was at the pedal end that it came out. Doesn't seem to be a clip lying about unless I can't find it?

Just slotted the cable back in, feels like it could have a bit more tension though? Any ideas what I can use, the cable clip seems to take it up half an inch or so?

Barry

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I cant understand whats wrong here as the clip isnt necessary for correct operation. As long as the carb throttles close smartly with their own spring there will be enough force to keep the cable tensioned correctly in the pedal attachment.

Once the cable is connected at both ends it just remains to unscrew the threaded tube in the bracket by the carbs (shown in the drawing but not numbered) until theres just a little play left. Then do up the threaded tube's lock nut and the jobs done....

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