Vitesse throttle pedal

[Peter Truman]

Correctly if I'm wrong but we seem to be concentrating on the pedal and cable restraint, when I undo the carb throttle cable lever at the rear carb the nipple always falls out of the pedal & won't stay in there (no clip) until I refit the throttle lever return spring items 9 &10 on the Kipping pic, the individual carb return springs aren't strong enough to keep the cable tension tight.

So does your arrangement include the throttle lever return spring and retaining rod (coat hanger type rod) that clips under the sump flange behind the starter motor. when I refit this it keeps pressure/tension on the cable and the cable nipple on the throttle pedal is held securely in position. It's just my thought to ensure the cable is held tight & the nipple doesn't fall out of the pedal.

[Colin Lindsay]

On 25/12/2020 at 20:21, johny said:

I cant understand whats wrong here as the clip isnt necessary for correct operation. As long as the carb throttles close smartly with their own spring there will be enough force to keep the cable tensioned correctly in the pedal attachment.

Depends how fast the carb closes... thinking aloud as usual but am I right? If you lift your foot off the pedal to decelerate and the carb is slightly behind in closing due to the engine revs then would there be enough slack on the cable to pop off at the pedal? My Mini was always doing it, resulting in me coasting to the roadside and having to delve into the footwell to reconnect the cable.

[johny]

I suppose in theory its possible but in 30+ years Ive never had the cable disconnect from the pedal while driving. It might depend on the weakness or otherwise of the carb spring and from the drawing it does look as if an additional linear spring was installed as standard although I dont have this. The only way I can get a disconnection is by operating the carb throttle directly and forcefully which would be rare as, if the engine is running, it cant be done without over revving... 

[Peter Truman]

Another Triumph inconsistency my 68 Mk2 which I’ve owned 50 of it’s 52 years has the throttle lever spring and anchor rod items 9 & 10. the bar/rod has a Z bend in it so the spring tension can be adjusted by tightening the bends in the Z.

Without this extra spring installed the throttle cable nipple at the pedal on my Vitebsk can be dislodged ie disconnected quite easily.

 

[bfashbolt]

Hi all, it was at the pedal end that it came out. Doesn't seem to be a clip lying about unless I can't find it?

Just slotted the cable back in, feels like it could have a bit more tension though? Any ideas what I can use, the cable clip seems to take it up half an inch or so?

Barry 

Can I just go back and explain what happened? It might help. I went to start the car, it hadn't been started for a few days and so I pulled the choke all the way out. Then I turned the key and eventually we started up. The engine revved as if I had the pedal fully down but in fact the pedal had become disconnected and the pedal loose. Clutch in and turned off. I checked the throttle spindle after I had re-attached the cable to the pedal. The spindle then seemed to snap back after I tensioned and released the spring. Next time I started it was OK and the throttle control worked correctly but since it has been very cold and I noticed that when I use the choke the throttle spindle 'sticks' fully rotated until I move it back round? So is it the choke cable or the spindle that needs attention?

 

 

 

[johny]

So youre saying that if you operate the choke the throttle spindle is rotated by the cam as it should but when you push the choke back in the throttle spindle doesnt return to its closed position? Then as youre having to turn the throttle spindle by hand it must be sticking for some reason....

If this is the case you need to undo the clamp between the two carbs to see which one (or both) is causing the problem although this will mean the carbs have to be resynchronised afterwards. Once youve narrowed it down a bit you can start looking at each carb.

[Colin Lindsay]

Possibly the butterfly jamming in the carb body? As Johny says check each carb, springs and working parts, and oil if necessary, but if it's the main butterfly sticking in the body it either needs a good clean or replacement.

[68vitesse]

49 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Possibly the butterfly jamming in the carb body? As Johny says check each carb, springs and working parts, and oil if necessary, but if it's the main butterfly sticking in the body it either needs a good clean or replacement.

Had this with my Vitesse but would stick when warmed up, I don't have the standard carburettor link setup, careful positioning of the carburettors solved it plus cleaning many years of congealed oil and muck of the spindle return springs.

Regards

Paul

[PeteH]

On 24/11/2020 at 22:27, TomL said:

Yes, I fitted one to my Vitesse about 25 years ago and it's a marked improvement.

Only just noticed, The Vitesse appears to be full Automatic. Only ever seen (picture of) one before (in a 1980`s "Courier"), when some guy did a conversion with a 2000? Engine and Box.?  Is this the same one?.

Pete

[TomL]

On 31/12/2020 at 07:19, PeteH said:

Only just noticed, The Vitesse appears to be full Automatic. Only ever seen (picture of) one before (in a 1980`s "Courier"), when some guy did a conversion with a 2000? Engine and Box.?  Is this the same one?.

Pete

Yes, I think it's the same one as I don't recall another Vitesse with an automatic gearbox back then.  It was in fact a Vitesse engine and although the gearbox was a Borg Warner 35 as fitted to the 2000/2.5, it was the Rover 2000/3500 version of the gearbox, as this had a shorter tail-housing, which presumably fitted better into the modified chassis.  The donor car (scrapped by the PO) ran it with 2500 and 3.27 diff.  It now runs with a 3.63 and a ZF 4HP24 gearbox, as fitted to the Jaguar XJ40.

Tom