AidanT Posted December 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 Thanks Rob, Being new to this and an accountant I like to get the best bang for my buck. That being said I don't want to do it 3 times ! And want to have a reliable engine at the end I wasn't keen on spending 2750 on an Ivor Searle, but happy to spend when I need to and when things are beyond my skill set Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 14 minutes ago, AidanT said: That being said I don't want to do it 3 times ! And want to have a reliable engine at the end Over the years I've rebuilt engines for my Spitfire (well, it was in a Herald at the time but is now in the Spitfire), GT6, 2500S and Vitesse. Only the Vitesse one went to a machine shop (Ivor Searle, as it happens), because the block was cracked and I bought a spare, but the old block had been rebored before so my pistons were +20. A rebore was cheaper than a set of pistons. None of those engines have given any trouble and two of them are still going 25+ years later. Edit: to be clear, of the other two, one was only done five years ago, the other I no longer own, and may still be going for all I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 I think I'm going to strip it completely. Then I will take a load of pics put them o here and get a vote on machine or not. There's obviously lots of experience on here with different views but maybe good pictures will sway it one way or another. Back to my measuring stuff, grateful for diagrams as I get a little lost with some item names Thx Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 To measure the bores you will need a bore gauge, they range from £30 (probably crap) to say a Mitutoyo (definitely good) for over £300! I took the decision to get the machine shop to check mine as to buy a gauge for me wasn't worth it. Plus you need to interpret the results etc... Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 Is there anything I can do with a standard micrometer gauge? I thought of the bore diameter but maybe not No worries if not. Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 14 minutes ago, AidanT said: Is there anything I can do with a standard micrometer gauge? I thought of the bore diameter but maybe not No worries if not. Aidan Depending on what size your mic is, you can measure the crank journals and compare with the factory figure, assuming it's not had a regrind. You can't measure bore with it. As Iain has said, you need an at least half-decent bore mic for that, so if you're only doing the one engine it's hard to justify the expense. If you're taking it to a machine shop, you would rely on their measurements anyway so there's not much point in buying your own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 This is a bore gauge "Moore and Wright MW316-05 Cylinder Bore Gauge 316 Series 50-160mm | machine-dro.co.uk" https://www.machine-dro.co.uk/moore-and-wright-mw316-05-cylinder-bore-gauge-316-series-50-160mm?gclid=CjwKCAiAq8f-BRBtEiwAGr3DgWocmU_KmIr7Mbr-pMcaEWkDL2Q33P7bovSVBqsXtZ7-VCicfYh_uxoCoxkQAvD_BwE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 5 minutes ago, Iain T said: This is a bore gauge "Moore and Wright MW316-05 Cylinder Bore Gauge 316 Series 50-160mm | machine-dro.co.uk" https://www.machine-dro.co.uk/moore-and-wright-mw316-05-cylinder-bore-gauge-316-series-50-160mm?gclid=CjwKCAiAq8f-BRBtEiwAGr3DgWocmU_KmIr7Mbr-pMcaEWkDL2Q33P7bovSVBqsXtZ7-VCicfYh_uxoCoxkQAvD_BwE Pretty sure that's the one I have, I think. DRO are good, I buy a lot from them. M&W used to be a top-notch British maker, but I doubt they're made here any more. There's a lot of good quality older kit on ebay, but any kind of mic, even the top quality ones, would need a calibration check if they're getting long in the tooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 5 minutes ago, Roger K said: but any kind of mic, even the top quality ones, would need a calibration check if they're getting long in the tooth. Totally agree, any precision measuring tool should be calibrated at 20C temp with the correct setting blocks. In fact all parts should be measured at 20C but then the world's not perfect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 4 minutes ago, Iain T said: Totally agree, any precision measuring tool should be calibrated at 20C temp with the correct setting blocks. In fact all parts should be measured at 20C but then the world's not perfect! Or 20C at the moment Iain Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 4 minutes ago, poppyman said: Or 20C at the moment Iain Tony. I wish - oh well, back to a cold workshop and scraping old underseal off the underside, lovely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 When wife no.1 (I've only had two) started having baby contractions I was under my TR3A scraping gunk off the chassis. I was covered in dirt and muck, my first thought was bloody good timing! Funny how you remember these things... Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 1 hour ago, poppyman said: Or 20C at the moment Iain Just been out, cold and unforgiving. A bit like yesterday's chin wag in Brussels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 42 minutes ago, Iain T said: When wife no.1 (I've only had two) started having baby contractions I was under my TR3A scraping gunk off the chassis. I was covered in dirt and muck, my first thought was bloody good timing! Funny how you remember these things... Iain Ha - when my only daughter was born in ‘90, I visited again the next day and came out of the Rosie (Cambridge) to find my GT6 had been broken into. They got a few cassettes (yes, that long ago), but nothing else. The real pain was that they’d smashed a rear quarterlight thinking they could reach the lock and, when they couldn’t, smashed the side window as well. Took me ages to find the Sundym glass for both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 2 hours ago, Roger K said: Ha - when my only daughter was born in ‘90, I visited again the next day and came out of the Rosie (Cambridge) to find my GT6 had been broken into. They got a few cassettes (yes, that long ago), but nothing else. The real pain was that they’d smashed a rear quarterlight thinking they could reach the lock and, when they couldn’t, smashed the side window as well. Took me ages to find the Sundym glass for both. My next door neighbour, back in the 70`s had his MG roof slashed for a couple of "8" cassettes. The thing was, he left his door unlocked anyway?. So the # of brain cells in thieving scrotes has not increased over time!. 😖 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 3 hours ago, Iain T said: When wife no.1 (I've only had two) started having baby contractions I was under my TR3A scraping gunk off the chassis. I was covered in dirt and muck, my first thought was bloody good timing! There I was thinking: don't tell me he ran for the bore measuring tool.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 3 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: There I was thinking: don't tell me he ran for the bore measuring tool.... No I had that disconnected😖 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 10 hours ago, AidanT said: Thanks- I will add it to the shopping list Full gasket set, New oil pump, new studs bolts and washers for head. Anything else???? It I should worth blue-printing the oil pump, or buying one that has been done for you. quality and tolerances of new ones can be variable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 10 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: timing chain Pete And tensioner. that said, modern tensioner are apparently of poor quality, the friend that rebuilt my engine insisted on a good secondhand one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 yes its worth only replacing things for very good reasons otherwise the end result can actually be worse - its well known that some parts available now arent as good as the originals.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky_Spit Posted December 11, 2020 Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 13 hours ago, thescrapman said: It I should worth blue-printing the oil pump, or buying one that has been done for you. quality and tolerances of new ones can be variable Aidan - a good description of Triumph oil pump "blue-printing" can be found here; Oil Pump (danielsonfamily.org) The only engineering tool required is a set of feeler gauges, plus the wet&dry paper/flat surface. The correct pump clearances are in the workshop manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2020 Thanks I will see what's what with the pump Am about to send off the head, should I remove the rocker shaft studs? Do they need to be put back in the same position OR replaced ?? Thx Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2020 And as promised another pic of no 6 bore (landscape) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 12, 2020 Report Share Posted December 12, 2020 to save any damage remover all top studs , doesnt matter where they refit to unless there is any different lengths involved if there is no ring wear ridge near the top its the preference of just re ring the orig pistons as the bores look ok but need a glaze buster or utopia get her bored and fit buy new oversiize pistons and new rings this is all down to personal preference how many miles expectation and costs me i would re ring what you have , it looks as a cursory glance to be ok to bring up the heap without costing a fortune what do you want from all this .are you looking for this to run another 100k ???? or be a nice easy runner as a spare , i thought the idea was to gain some experience of engines not remanufacture one ???? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2020 Your spot on Pete, but this will go into the car, as the current mk2 saloon engine is tired. I also want to clean up the engine bay while the engines are swapped. How would I know what size rings to get?? Or maybe just a hone and new rings?? & Polish the crank as a middle ground. End point is a reliable runner and the experience! I will whip put the head studs Thanks Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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