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Mk2 Engine Rebuild going into a Mk1 GT6 by a novice!


AidanT

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as you were trying to rebuild to a good standard dont loose track of there are many cars running around quite happily with worn /plucked cam lobes as they have no way of knowing

accepting its a faf to change a cam in the car as its heads off again but 

but the cam will run ok if you wish to control the wish list and £££s 

back to preference or utopia    

Pete

 

 

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51 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

as you were trying to rebuild to a good standard dont loose track of there are many cars running around quite happily with worn /plucked cam lobes as they have no way of knowing

accepting its a faf to change a cam in the car as its heads off again but 

but the cam will run ok if you wish to control the wish list and £££s 

back to preference or utopia    

Pete

 

 

Thanks Pete

Its good to know that I could take this and followers off the shopping list if it gets too hairy! I do have an overall budget in mind so if it's way over, my cam with all its foyables will go back in

Anyway lobe no8 is the issue and here is the followers arse!

Btw is it grease inside each of the followers??

20201228_102718.jpg

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21 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

agree no grease there is normally a hole midway up the side to let oil out 

grease would block it up 

Do you mean up he sidd of the follower? There definitely isnt any on any of mine, all just tubes.

Anyway pistons all out so just the main bearings and crank! 

I'm really surprised as a novice how hollow the block actually is. When everything is out or off, how much does it weigh????

 

20201228_112519.jpg

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1 hour ago, NonMember said:

Well, that follower looks fine from what I can see. As Pete says, a lot of engines run perfectly happily for many many miles with a spot of cam damage like you have. Most of the load is nearer the centre of the lobe. And the 308778 is the "right" cam - a good all-rounder.

They are all in this condition. The stuff inside each isn't oil as it doesn't pour, but may be sludgy oil?? Either that or Po stuck some grease in there. I will dig some out and investigate further

 

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6 minutes ago, AidanT said:

 

I'm really surprised as a novice how hollow the block actually is. When everything is out or off, how much does it weigh????

 

 

All I can tell you is that they get heavier as I get older.

I struggled with a sprint block recently. They used to be much lighter when I was 30. 

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1 hour ago, AidanT said:

I'm really surprised as a novice how hollow the block actually is. When everything is out or off, how much does it weigh????

Very little, until you buy one and the seller charges postage. THEN it vastly increases in weight.

I can carry stripped-down Herald blocks about happily enough, but the crank is an enormous part of the weight and makes a huge difference.

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2 hours ago, AidanT said:

he stuff inside each isn't oil as it doesn't pour, but may be sludgy oil??

It's very likely sludgy oil. The followers are lubricated by what runs down off the rockers. Most of the time they're full of oil and it's the overflow that provides lubrication. So the oil in the very bottom doesn't flow and tends to collect gloop rather like the bottom of the sump does.

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On 27/12/2020 at 14:30, Iain T said:

Both systems work but rotating the crank clockwise and anticlockwise to a dead stop and taking the middle of the two readings seems easier than trying to rotate the crank while watching the dial gauge and seeing where the dwell point is. 

I've recently seen the piston stop method used in two engine shops I've visited. 

Iain 

Why would a machine shop use the piston stop method, when "watching the dial gauge is easier" ?    Because the stop method is accurate, and the watching subjective and not accurate.

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3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Very little, until you buy one and the seller charges postage. THEN it vastly increases in weight.

I can carry stripped-down Herald blocks about happily enough, but the crank is an enormous part of the weight and makes a huge difference.

Do you think I could man handle it? or at least place it on a sack truck then lift it in to the hatch of my car? - otherwise I will have to borrow an engine hoist

 

Aidan

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2 minutes ago, AidanT said:

Do you think I could man handle it? or at least place it on a sack truck then lift it in to the hatch of my car? - otherwise I will have to borrow an engine hoist

 

Aidan

I would really want two people to lift a bare six block these days. It’s heavier and longer than a four and dropping it, or it slipping, could easily damage the block or you. Mw wife has been known to help lug the odd block around...

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9 minutes ago, AidanT said:

Do you think I could man handle it? or at least place it on a sack truck then lift it in to the hatch of my car? - otherwise I will have to borrow an engine hoist

Aidan

That's like asking: do you think I could run a marathon? It all depends on your own physiological makeup and how much you value your back...! :)

I've manoeuvred a 6-cylinder block along planks of wood, and pushed it up into the boot of a car the same way - just two lengths of d-rail fencing spaced to spread the load. Four cylinder I could stick under one arm... well, almost, but I can still carry it easily enough, but a six as Aidan says is heavier and more awkward to balance for one person. 

 

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1 hour ago, AidanT said:

Do you think I could man handle it?

When I took my Vitesse's "new" block to Ivor Searle, I struggled with two of us and a trolley to get it into my car. Having driven over there, one of their guys came out, picked it up and carried it in, just like that. He'd obviously had his weetabix.

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Just now, NonMember said:

When I took my Vitesse's "new" block to Ivor Searle, I struggled with two of us and a trolley to get it into my car. Having driven over there, one of their guys came out, picked it up and carried it in, just like that. He'd obviously had his weetabix.

I had a similar experience with Ivor Searle's.  They do a collection/delivery service (I'm only 20mins from Soham), and about 7 or 8 years ago they did a Jensen Interceptor block for me - a cast iron 440 (7.3) Chrysler V8.  The guy just picked it up, walked over to the van and laid it in carefully.  Made me feel about 4' tall with sand in my eyes...

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On 27/12/2020 at 15:39, AidanT said:

I have taken a close up of one of the lives as it seems a little rough 

Hello Aiden

                   I have 2 cam shafts in very good condition(not a mark on them)

One is a Chris Witor one and a set of upgraded followers with the oil hole(all numbered to the lobes so can go back onto the same lobe)

Chris Witor Triumph Specialist

The other one is I think a standard Triumph grind and came out of an American TR6 so probably the soft cam?(I could check if you are interested?) no Followers with this one but a set of standard ones are not expensive.

If you are interested in either of them pm me

Roger

ps I am open to sensible offers as they are not needed by me

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1 hour ago, AidanT said:

Ok  I can get two people to lift it. Probably easier than borrowing a hoist from the same person!

Aidan, I slipped a disc manhandling a 3.8 jag block. Saved the block but buggered my back and after suffering for 20 years had to have an operation. 

Best to ask a friend even after 4 Weetabix! 

Iain 

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56 minutes ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Aiden

                   I have 2 cam shafts in very good condition(not a mark on them)

One is a Chris Witor one and a set of upgraded followers with the oil hole(all numbered to the lobes so can go back onto the same lobe)

Chris Witor Triumph Specialist

The other one is I think a standard Triumph grind and came out of an American TR6 so probably the soft cam?(I could check if you are interested?) no Followers with this one but a set of standard ones are not expensive.

If you are interested in either of them pm me

Roger

ps I am open to sensible offers as they are not needed by me

Aidan,

The Chris Witor CW3021 camshaft Roger is offering is, in my opinion, just about the best profile available for a road-going Triumph six. It takes the already excellent factory 308788 timing, and adds extra lift for the inlet valves. With a slight skim of the head to raise compression ratio and suitable carb needles, it gives more top-end power without any discernible loss of bottom end torque. It's the camshaft I've fitted in my 2.5 litre GT6.

Highly recommended!

Nigel

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18 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:

suitable carb needles

When I spoke to Chris Witor he suggested 6J needles, he sells them. They work on my engine. 

I have a hybrid version from Newman of the Witor cam with 0.26 lift on the exhaust and inlet but not sure if this was a waste of money. Go for Roger's cam. Good low down torque makes easy lazy driving. 

Iain 

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